PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC.

Nothing but Quality Products at Good Prices, Great Customer Service, and Lots and Lots of Helpful Information

and NO SALES TAX - You are shopping in TAX FREE New Hampshire


APPREHENSIVE? New to Epoxies? (They can be $$$). Let's talk (603 - 435 - 7199 or EMAIL) and put yourself at ease with a 1 on 1 conversation about your project, which products will work best for you, and how to use them. After purchase "handholding", support, and encouragement are also available anytime. We freely share our 20 plus years of epoxy experience and problem solving experience.  If our owner, Paul Oman, is not available he will return your call quickly. Emails are answered all day long. Without potential customers, repeat customers, and friends like you that want some free, quick advice, New Hampshire based Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc., a Better Business Bureau member, would not exist. Thank you in advance and thank you for visiting epoxyproducts.com. We appreciate your interest in our company.

 PRIMARY STORE LINK --- TOP SELLING PRODUCTS --- EPOXY GURU HELP SITE --- EPOXY DATA SHEETS


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Rust and Corrosion Control Using Specialty Coatings (epoxy / aluthane)

Popular coating for auto restoration - wood and fiberglass priming

 

rust

active rust

 

Coatings Paints Epoxy Resins to Prevent Rust and Corrosion
Aluthane and Epoxy Paints use to stop prevent corrosion and rust
 


Your Host and Tour Guide:

Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

Board member: Friends of the Suncook River - 501(c)(3) non profit ----- Founder: Friday Night Paddlers .

"Professionals helping Professionals"


PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC.


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MEMBER:  Internet Epoxy Confederation (IEC - CLICK HERE TO VISIT) -- "Where Professionalism Still Matters"


We've been selling epoxy - marine epoxy (boat building - wood / fiberglass repair) industrial coatings - garage paint -

underwater epoxies - thick putties - tabletop resins and supplies since the early 1990's


 

We all know the a problem rust and corrosion are with the things we value. Rust attacks our cars, boats, tools, and structures. There are several ways to 'fix' the rust problem.

rusty stove

1) remove the rust - i.e. sandblasting etc. A short term fix because the object will begin to rust again immediately

2) convert the rust - products called rust converters change the iron rust into another iron product that doesn't rust. This is a chemical protection approach.

3) isolate the rust (or the rust prone surface) from the air and moisture needed to form rust. This is what paints and coatings attempt to do. Some paints and some coatings do a much better job than others in this regard. This is a mechanical approach to rust prevention. Note that you can combine chemical and mechanical corrosion prevention methods.

 

EPOXY PAINTS and RESINS

Thick, generally goopy, and very non-porous, epoxies do an outstanding job of preventing air and moisture from reaching a rust prone surface. Epoxies don't like sunlight (UV) and will yellow and eventually break down with UV exposure. So in many setting (like chemical plants) epoxy paints to the "work' and more ordinary paints are applied over the epoxy for 'looks'.

MCU Aluthane (tm)

Aluthane is a moisture cured urethane (MCU) that is pigmented with aluminum - hence an aluminum paint. The aluminum flake pigment and the MCU properties themselves, provide a excellent brush/roller/spray on barrier to air and moisture. For more information on this product google  aluthane or CLICK HERE .

This product is a Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. best selling, favorite product. Visit our FAVORITES - 7 EPOXIES THAT WILL FIX ANYTHING  web page at: epoxyproducts.com/favorites4u.html View other popular one-of-a-kind products.

Order this product by calling 603-435-7199 anytime or order online using this link to our Primary Web Store:  EPOXYPRODUCTS

 

rust under paint

RUST

 


We really appreciate you visiting PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC. and our web site: EPOXYPRODUCTS.COM.  Take advantage of the CONTACT links on this page to ask questions about our products and/or your projects. You can stay in touch with us via our NEWSLETTER (link on our contact page) which is emailed  every 6-8 weeks.


This current page is all about:

Rust and Corrosion Control

Coatings Paints Epoxy Resins to Prevent Rust and Corrosion
Aluthane and Epoxy Paints use to stop prevent corrosion and rust


 

What is an MCU Coating? 

 

Aluthane (tm) is an MCU coating. MCU stands for Moisture Cured Urethane and makes a very superior high performance  coating. These are a unique type of coating much better known in commercial industrial painting circles than within the general public market.  Most MCU coatings use tiny aluminum flake as pigment which gives them their classic silvery/gray color and enhances their remarkable properties.

MCU contain lots of solvents which aids in penetrating tiny cracks and crevices. The coating scavenges moisture from its contact surfaces and the air and undergoes an cross-linking molecular process which 'grips' or grabs onto surfaces for outstanding adhesion, even with poorly prepared surfaces. Removing internal surface moisture removes one of the key components necessary for rust development.

The resulting dry surface (aided by the stacking aluminum pigment platelets) provides a physical barrier to air and oxygen, another necessary component for rust to form.  The result is a thin, hard coating that seals our air, water, salts, minerals etc.  essentially encapsulating the surface  It therefore is one of the best, easy to apply, rust and corrosion control coatings.

Its amazing adhesion results in a versatile coating well suited for use on steel, aluminum, concrete, fiberglass, wood etc. It can be used as a primer/sealer, a middle coat or a exposed as a topcoat. The aluminum pigmented versions have no UV issues, can be applied at low temperatures and operate at temperatures of up to about 400 degrees F. Besides being used as a rust stopper is also has applications on  boats, roofing and flooring applications. In is used a lot in the industrial, automotive, marine and farm marketplaces. The AUTO RESTORATION market is one place these coatings are widely promoted within the 'DIY home' marketplace.

THIS PRODUCT xx    EMAIL   US xx
         
air shippable     cycloaliphatic system  
no nonyl phenol     epoxy adduct system  
multi curing agents     bulk pricing  
solvent free     no Calif. sales  
2 part epoxy     2 part poly  
apply underwater     bubble breakers  
favorite(s) product list xx   data sheets xx
PACKING - jugs/bottles     PACKING - cans xx
find in non marine cat xx   find in marine catalog xx
PRICES/ind/commercial xx   PRICES/marine section xx
BUY online

simple store

    BUY online

primary store

xx
home page xx   contact page xx

 

Basic MCU properties

* minimum surface prep required (so common on structures and objects hat cannot be sandblasted etc.)

* easy to apply - thin, with good coverage

* fast drying

* long life (some vendors claim 10-20 years of performance)

* very good chemical, temperature and abrasion resistance

* replacement for galvanized surfaces and other environmentally damaging zinc rich products

* contains no dangerous lead, zinc, chromates, or heavy metals

 
 

Commercial vs. DIY MCU Coating Products

Given the outstanding and time tested  performance and properties of MCU coatings in serious commercial setting it is not surprising that companies have attempted to move this product into the DIY/Home-Boat Owner market.  This market is less knowledgeable and will accept lesser quality and overpriced MCU coatings compared to the commercial/industrial marketplace.

Warning Flags:

* Very slick web sites that suggest their product is unique and one-of-kind and that you cannot find anything even remotely similar. Some sites really play up MCU chemistry, others hide it, thus implying how 'magical' and special their standard MCU coating is.

*  Fancy product names and colorful labels that suggest a Madison Ave focus rather than no-frills commercial roots.

* Prices in the $150-$200 a gallon range. No MCU coating  is that expensive to manufacture, especially for large companies. These folks are making $100 plus profit per gallon from you (with 'discounts' and 'free shipping' making hardly a dent in their profits). No commercial user would pay these outrageous prices for a gallon of an industrial coating.

* Check product coverage. These are thin products, due to their chemistry they don't need to be thick. But the general public usually thinks thicker is better. The thicker the product the more you use and the more you will have to purchase (at those extremely high prices). If coverage numbers are given make certain they are real life numbers and not "theoretical coverage" numbers. The theoretical coverage for 1 gallon of water at 1 mil thick is over 1600 square feet.

* One thing that cannot be easily established, but should be lurking in the back of your mind is the polyurethane resin used in the manufacture of the coating. Top-of-the-line, commercial/industrial MCU coatings, like our Aluthane product, use 100%  polyurethane resin. MCU coatings can be manufactured with diluents and other low cost additives to reduce the amount of polyurethane resin in the manufacturing process (like adding water to the whiskey!). The result is still a good MCU, but not a great one and not one formulated for maximum performance, but rather for better profits. One of our 'regular'  30 gallon a month Aluthane MCU customers stopped purchasing for about 5 months, presumably testing alternative products. They returned to us most likely because of the higher purity/quality and reasonable price of our Aluthane (tm) MCU.

 

Order this product by calling 603-435-7199 anytime or order online using this link to our Primary Web Store:  EPOXYPRODUCTS

 

ONLINE PRODUCT CATALOGS

PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, Inc

 

ONLINE STORE Purchase Here ------ or CALL 603 435 7199  ------  HOME PAGE

 

Marine Catalog

 
* home page of marine catalog section (blue background)

* table of contents page for marine catalog section

 
Section One MARINE - CLEAR EPOXIES

Section Two FILLERS THICKENERS ADDITIVES

Section Three THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.

Section Four EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)

Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS

Section Six NON-SKID DECK COATINGS

Section Seven MARINE REPAIR PRODUCTS

Section Eight MISC. MARINE PRODUCTS
 

MASSIVE BOAT HOW TO  - ISSUES - HELP WEB LINK SITE

 
   

Residential / Commercial / DIY Catalog

 
* home page of residential/commercial catalog section (brown background)

* table of contents page for residential/commercial catalog section

 
Section A EPOXY PAINTS

Section B FLOOR EPOXIES (regular and non-skid products), SEALERS, ACCESSORIES

Section C THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.

Section D CLEAR EPOXIES

Section E NON-EPOXY PAINTS COATINGS SEALERS

Section F MIX-IN ADDITIVES

Section G OTHER PRODUCTS

Section H SURFACE PREPARATION PRODUCTS

Section I MISC. ACCESSORIES
 

WEB EPOXY FLOOR ISSUES LINKS SITE --- WEB EPOXY REPAIR LINKS SITE

 

PRODUCT DATA SHEETS  -------  BY SUBJECT INDEX HELP SITE

 

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Epoxy Essentials (tm)

 

Reasons for coating failures

Preparation problem 70%; application problem 12%; environment problem 6%; wrong paint selection 9%; bad paint 1%; adding thinner 2%


"At least 70% of premature coatings failures are traced back to 'surface preparation' whether referring to wood, concrete, or metal. In a commercial recoating project, the costs (and profit) associated with surface preparation are about 70% of the job. How extensive the surface preparation is will depend on the performance expectation of the owner... Know the A, B, C's of surface preparation - visible contaminants, invisible contaminants, and profile."

 

Dr. Lydia Frenzel, The ABCs of Surface Preparation, Cleaner Times, April 2001, pg. 42-44.


DID YOU KNOW...

 

Epoxy coatings are used because of their outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond strength.
 

Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard ‘plastic'.

Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.

Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.

By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.

Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).

The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.

End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.

Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.

Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.

It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.


How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.


Coatings Paints Epoxy Resins to Prevent Rust and Corrosion
Aluthane and Epoxy Paints use to stop prevent corrosion and rust
 

 

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