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Quick Buy -- ALUTHANE (tm) MCU - ALUMINUM PAINT -- Now

The Aluthane ™ Page - AN (MCU) Moisture Cured Urethane Metallic Paint / Aluminum Paint

( MCU ) Aluminum Paint, Anti Corrosive, Primer and Topcoat

largest single aluthane order to date - 90 gallons

Your Host and Tour Guide:

Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

Board member: Friends of the Suncook River - 501(c)(3) non profit ----- Founder: Friday Night Paddlers .

"Professionals helping Professionals" since 1994

aluthane application of rusty steel

Also excellent as a concrete sealer or workshop floor coating!

Aluthane as a sealer/tie coat/color changing sanding base coat when restoring Wood, Fiberglass, or Metal hulled boats - Click Here

It is recommended to sand if top coating and it has been over 16-24 hours since the application of the Aluthane (although personally, I don't).

My favorite uses: makes boat trailers look showroom fresh! Anti corrosive protection too! Bonds to wooden porches and RR ties like nothing I have ever seen.

When restoring/repairing old boats this is my favorite product. I put it on over the old wood or fiberglass after I've done a first pass fix on the serious problems. It goes on quickly and easily and without drips or sags, common with epoxy primers. With the hull now a uniform silver color I can easily see spots that need more work or sanding. The Aluthane sands well and quickly. It becomes darker when sanded. With sanding imperfections really stand out.

It dries quicker than epoxies and I can use it in winter at 40 degrees (maybe) less without problems (unlike epoxies). Will withstand temps of over 300 degrees F.

Note: latex paints often show lots of brush marks on their first coat over Aluthane (like latex on a piece of glass). This goes away with a second coat of latex. Solvent based coatings (urethanes, enamels etc.) do cover Aluthane nicely on the first coat.

This product is officially considered a "metallic coating." This is good news because such coatings have higher VOC acceptable levels than all other coatings (see www.epoxyproducts.com/voc.html) Some of the nice properties of this product are a result of those solvents and can no longer be found in non metallic coatings. As a metallic coating this product can even be sold in all parts of California. Without the aluminum filler, this product could not be sold in the USA at all (too much solvent). Products like Aluthane are both unique and becoming rare in the USA. This could well be a new 'coating' experience for many of you!

STORAGE - cures with moisture from the air, so an open can will thicken and harden within a few days. The trick to long storage is to squirt in an inert gas into the opened can (I use my shop propane torch). Then a sheet of plastic wrap between the lid and the can rim - or you will not be able to remove the lid next time you attempt to open the can!

At the suggestion of a customer I've added thickeners to Aluthane with good success (an off label application) .It then becomes a brush on 'thick build sandable primer' - which fills small dimples/edges, seams left behind from more serious filling and patching projects. It dries quickly so it can be sanded down within a few hours. Our fine micro-spheres makes a nice, easy to sand, mixture, but after sanding the 'broken spheres' leaves a porous surface that needs to be sealed. Alternately, you can thicken with fumed silica. It takes more effort to sand, but leaves a smooth surface that doesn't need sealing.

Can also be used as a thin, hard/durable (harder than epoxy) 1 part cement and wood floor coating.

ALUTHANE ALUMINUM MCU PAINT TEST RESULTS:

I coated an Armstrong brand commercial floor tile (12 inch by 12 inch), as well as a piece of plywood, with one coat of Aluthane and submerged it in a freshwater pond for 5 months. Both samples were perfectly intact (no peeling, blistering, softening, etc. at the end on the test. While urethanes are generally not considered suitable for immersion applications, this product appears to work fine underwater We cannot officially warranty it for immersion, but I personally now feel comfortable enough that I would use it on a dinghy boat bottom, boat mooring, submerged pump, etc.

I've found it also makes a great primer and sealer under latex or enamel (an alternative to a solvent thinned epoxy primer) - although because of its medium dark color it may take 2 coats to cover.

Especially over epoxy when you are going to topcoat with enamel. Sometime there are problems with enamel over epoxy - Click Here

-- Aluthane metallic paint / aluminum paint is becoming my favorite primer/sealer under all coatings.

Results of about a 1.5 year test of various coatings and primers in outdoor exposure. - The actual test of many different coatings and different levels of solvent thinned epoxies were inconclusive, however, the patch of Aluthane looked like new. If you're looking for a coating you can just sort of slap on without a lot of surface prep and have it last a long time (even underwater) - use our Aluthane™.

Aluthane aluminum paint is a wonderful product for use as a basecoat, tie coat, sealing coat for projects such as the restoration of old wooden or fiberglass coats and similar projects. And here's why:

* It is thin and easy to apply by brush in temperatures of 40F or better (much lower than you would want to apply ordinary paints) and dries quickly.

* As a moisture cured urethane (MCU) is has tremendous bonding properties to surfaces it is applied to. This makes it a good tie coat between the existing surfaces and your topcoat. I use it without top coating for the wooden decks around my house. On those wood surfaces it has a nice light gray color.

* It seems to work as a penetrating sealer too, getting into tiny cracks and maybe ‘gluing' loose paint edges etc. thanks to it superior adhesion. – (note a few coats of Aluthane on old riveted aluminum boats stops most leaks). You will see a color difference when it goes over (and soaks into and seals) patching/repair putties vs. smooth painted surfaces.

Aluthane aluminum paint over putty patch. Note how the Aluthane absorbs/seals into the putty differently than into the surrounding areas. You want this sealing so that the topcoat of paint looks the same over the patch as it does over the rest of the surface.

* The satin, uniform, light gray color of the Aluthane shows flaws, missed spots in your restoration that get missed in the motley surface bend of colors and different fillers, putties, epoxies, etc.

* When sanded the light gray color changes to med gray. This is BIG DEAL, as it shows ‘high spots' on the surface. NICE!

color changes from light gray to med gray when sanded

* Both enamel paint and latex paint can be applied nicely over aluminum filled Aluthane.

* Two coats provides outstanding corrosion - rust resistance. I use it on my steel, winter truck tire rims and on old boat trailers. Makes them look like new galvanized trailers. Without top coating.

* Outstanding coverage - about 100 sf or more per quart (400 per gallon).

* Aluthane metallic paint has a lot of solvent in it (like the ‘good old paints' of old) but can still be sold and used in all states because of the solvent levels allowed for metallic coatings. This is helpful, but note that it cannot be shipped by air so sales are essentially limited to the lower 48 states.

* Once opened, it doesn't store well unless the air in the can is displaced with another gas and the lid is well re-sealed. So it is best to save up projects to use it on within a day or two. For DIY folks like myself, it is a ‘kick in the butt' that gets me to accomplish a lot of Aluthane coating projects at the same time.

More Tech Info:

Millions of dollars are spent each year on the maintenance of painted steel in this nation. To reduce such costs, the use of climate-tolerant, durable coatings has become essential to ensure extended painting seasons and coating lives.

Moisture Cure Urethane Aluminum Paint Primer / Finish Product Description

Progressive Epoxy Polymers Moisture Cure Urethane Aluminum Primer / Finish (Aluthane™) is a single package High Performance Coating designed to give you unsurpassed performance over hand tool cleaned, marginally prepared surfaces.

Moisture Cure Urethane Aluminum Primer / Finish Product Features

For all types of surfaces, steel, weathered galvanized steel, (anti corrosive)  aluminum, select plastic substrates, wood, concrete,
Fast recoat 1 - 2 hours
Cures down to 18 Degrees F.
Excellent wetting over sound rusty steel
High Heat up to 400 Degrees F
Single Package, easy to use
May be top-coated with most coatings
Excellent barrier coat for Epoxies and Polyurethane Coatings

Background

Moisture-cured urethanes were designed to protect steel from corrosion. Progressive Epoxy Polymers urethane aluminum formulations originated in Germany and were brought to this country in the 1970s.

These coating systems are known for their adhesion to steel and good abrasion resistance. This coating material consists of a single resin component that forms cross-linking polymers through a reaction with moisture from the air.

Progressive Epoxy Polymers urethanes offer convenient application properties. It come in single packages and has longer shelf and pot lives than most other coatings. In addition, these fast top-coaters have low-temperature and high-humidity application properties.

Performs as a primer

As primers, Progressive Epoxy Polymers moisture-cured polyurethanes are pigmented with aluminum.

Aluminum pigments provide high resistance to water vapor transmission and gas and ion penetration.

During application, the pigments in moisture-cured urethanes align themselves more or less parallel to the substrate in closely packed layers. After the coating has cured, the overlapping pigment particles form a dense barrier against moisture and other corrosion promoters.

The pigment layers also reinforce the coating, relieve stresses within the paint film and improve intercoat adhesion. Alignment of the pigments, combined with the reaction of the isocyanate group with crystalline bonded water in rust, allow moisture-cured polyurethanes to offer enhanced corrosion resistance and strong adhesion, even to less than ideally prepared substrates.

Minimal surface preparation

One of the major advantages of moisture-cured polyurethanes is that they can be applied to steel substrates with less surface preparation.

Abrasive blasting to white metal is without question the best method of surface preparation, but is also the most expensive. Most often, power-tool cleaning is all that is required for these types of urethanes.

In comparison to abrasive blasting, the amount of waste generated by power-tool cleaning is dramatically reduced, as is the expense of shrouding the structure and cost of waste disposal.

Excellent chemical resistance

In addition to impressive physical characteristics, moisture-cured polyurethanes offer excellent chemical resistance.

Contact with liquid hydrocarbons such as xylene, gasoline and mineral spirits have little effect on properly formulated moisture-cured coatings.

Oxygenated solvents such as ketones, esters and alcohols can soften the coatings in immersion, but the films can quickly recover once the solvent is removed. Many of the systems on the market today are suitable for long-term exposure to splash and spillage of these solvents.

Aluthane being applied to boat hoist

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Aluthane on an old mower deck

read about the 2007 Aluthane™ coating of Thunder Bridge

- About 5500 sf and 18 gallons of Aluthane™ -

http://www.chichesternh.org/Public_Documents/ChichesterNH_Historical/HistSoc/ThunderBridge

Before and after Aluthane shots

(works just as well on old boat trailers too!)

Quick Buy -- ALUTHANE (tm) MCU - ALUMINUM PAINT -- Now

Paul-

After prepping, there was still some residual paint that was welded on and
couldn't be removed without stripper. Since the product is designed for
'less than perfectly prepared surfaces', it didn't require messy stripping
chemicals or excessive prep work.

The Aluthane has an nice aluminum sheen and cures very hard. It has a
watery consistency and spreads easily. It filled pinhole size gaps, making
the surface airtight. I was able to mimic the original paint scheme
because of Aluthane's aluminum color. I used it as a primer and topcoat.
Aluthane made my 50 year old boat look new again!


Very satisfied, Matt

Tom wrote (10/2008):

Thanks Paul; here are a few comments on the Aluthane.

I was looking for a product to use on the 4" steel pilings on a newly constructed boat house. I wanted to extend the life of the piles and the overall structure since the boathouse cost roughly $50K to build. Aluthane was recommended. At the time, the water was down around three feet from normal pool so I was able to paint roughly 4 feet of the piling that was exposed. For prep, I used a simple paint scraper to smooth off the rough, loose rust and then a wire brush. I did not put a lot of effort into preparation. Total prep time per piling was no more than 3-5 minutes. I used a 3" roller and rolled the Aluthane on. Again, very simple and quick. The Aluthane will run, so you do have to roll it on and smooth any runs with another quick roll over.

The results looked great. Basically a shiny aluminum look. When the lake came back up to pool, I kept watch for any signs of deterioration and saw none 12 months after application. The water went back down even further in the last few months, so I was able to inspect much closer and even apply the Aluthane further down the pilings. There was absolutely no rust through with 12-15 months of submersion.

The Aluthane surpassed all expectations and I now am in a wait and see mode on how long it will last before corrosion...no signs yet. I know its not advertised for submerged applications, but I can attest that it works very well for at a minimum of one year in fresh water applications. Excellent product that requires very little prep and seems to be very effective.

Hi Paul,

I was working on the boat today and couldn't help but notice how sharp my aluminum hardtop (still) looks after a very harsh summer of hard work on the salty ocean and a long New England winter exposed to the elements.

I remember the day I finished welding my hardtop and sat baffled as to how to finish it. You see, the hardtop frame was comprised of a half cut-up Mako tower (anodized aluminum) and scrap 6061 aluminum, all TIG welded together. With little to no prep, aside from a light sanding and a wash with alcohol, I was able to brush on (stippling) two coats of Aluthane in a day and have the boat launched a week later. Since then, the frame has seen rope chaffing, scrapes, climbing crew with abrasive sandy shoes, and harsh sun and seawater. The finish has never worn through and shows no signs of damage.

It has held up marvelously. So well in fact, I go out of my way to find things to paint with Aluthane. So far, I've painted my engines heat exchanger, primer my manifolds and risers, painted parts of my galvanized trailer including the wheels, and various mixed metal hardware on my boat.

I've recommended this product to others looking for a tough coating that can take a beating. A little goes a long way with Aluthane and it is almost funny how easily it goes on, rolled or brushed. One caveat, brushing will show brush marks so I usually stipple the surface with a brush with its bristles cut way back (or roll it on). Continuous mixing is key, too. It isn't glossy which is nice in some cases.

Paul 4/09

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Aluminum boat restoration - before Aluthane

Aluminum boat restoration - after Aluthane

John (2/16/2012 email): A Wonderful Product!! Love Using It For A Little Of Everything!!! Proud To Buy American Products!!

My first experience w/ Aluthane was on my 1966 Starcraft boat....then with the left over quart I did the main door on my garage.....after that....I still had enough to apply a coat onto my rear bumper of my F250. This time around.... I used 1 quart again on: The in and outside panel of a retired U-Haul Truck (33 5/8 in. x 6 1/2 ft).....all the interior wall panels of the box truck (it's a 14 ft. box with grandmas attic)....and a 80# saddle propane tank. It's been an average of 28* up here for a high and it applied beautifully.....drying time is slower (I expected this)....but it coated just as smoothly as if it was 75* and sunny.

I totally agree.....b4 I crack a 1 quart container....I make sure I have enough things to coat so I don't hafta waste it in the garbage. I've been telling as many people as I can about Aluthane (and about you guys and galls).....telling them what I've been using it on and how nice it looks...and how smoothly it helped water proof my 46 year old boat and with a teeny bit of help from Marine Goop. My boat flows so smoothly through the water.....you would have never guessed that it leaked pretty good b4 the Aluthane and Goop.

I just hope and pray that this Economy and World Govt. doesn't shut you guys and gals down. That will be a VERY VERY SAD DAY for all the DIY's and
commercial and industrial accounts you deal with on a regular basis.

Keep up the WONDERFUL WORK!!! Love the product so much!!! OMG.....I wanna coat everything exterior with it.... LOL. But seriously... when I get a chance.... I will be using the 1 Gallon Aluthane to do both of my porches. Have a great day and year. And blessed be us all.

John

Hi Paul,

I just finished painting my horse trailer (sided with FRP) with your Aluthane primer and thought I’d send you a 'before' and 'after' pic.

I was so happy with the product, I decided not to even topcoat it, lol! My husband wants me to order LOTS more; after seeing how beautifully it covers, he’s finding lots of projects around the yard that will benefit from this awesome primer. I spent a lot of time sanding, then used your Captain Tully’s crack filler, smoothed all over the fiberglass sides, which were badly checked. One gallon of Aluthane applied by a combination of roller and brush did the whole two-horse trailer very nicely. I would recommend it to anyone and will use it over and over again.

Thanks for your input on the project!

Mary

Aluthane as a primer under a VERY HIGH END FINISH - (user notes)

Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:42:56 -0800
From: Cal <>

"The brush marks from the brush application of the Aluthane put me off and I had to cover them before the Aluthane got to maximum hardness. The job is done now, and a nice finish, but I have a few observations for top coating to a glossy finish that I would like to share. I did my bench top a month ago, and it is different by a LOT from the boat coating I saw happening.

The Aluthane needs to be rolled on, and not brushed to flatten out well. I used a phenolic core 9 " by 1/4 " nap foam roller, 3/16" would be even better for a lot less texture than the brush streaks that were left. A good smooth roll down my bench top (or hull) faired everything in well.

Let it set until it can be over coated, and now I think for a top coat it MUST be over coated with clear to look the best. For top coating the Aluthane, the desired result is to have the clear finish help smooth out any remaining roller texture. Since there is no pigment, it is much easier to carefully polish the clear coat smoother, and leave a satin or semi gloss finish without smearing or scratching the base coat. Some tests show that a very slight "orange peel" textute is actually faster, as it disturbs the water barrier layer just next to the hull, and holds air under the hull at speed. Sounds good, saves work!!

My "test" work bench is now the bulletproof finish that you talked to me about. Thanks for the good stuff! I will order more epoxy today.

Best wishes for Thanksgiving, and Christmas -- Cal

I have nothing to do with this company, but I tried their Aluthane primer and it is great.

http://www.epoxyproducts.com/5_urethane.html

This stuff works even better than they claim it does. I first tried it on a vinyl top of a old Pontiac Bonneville (w/455 engine) that was mechanically sound but the top leaked like a sive due to rust under the vinyl. The options were fiberglass the top to seal the vinyl or paint over it. I tried aluthane, it worked. it water proofed it with two coats, and even looks + decent. Now I have a high speed tow vehicle that ride four in comfort and pull my 21 foot cc.

I have also used aluthane on boat trailers and the floor on my small aluminum row boat. As I said it is even better than they claim it is.

Sept 06 email

"I just wanted to tell you again how thrilled we are with the aluthane paint.

I had about 1/2 gallon left in the original can from painting the boat house steel framing, I'd put a couple layers of waxed paper between the lid and the can and sealed it as tight as I could... it worked, some of the paint settled to the bottom, but it all remixed just fine. We used it to do some touch up painting and paint a new beam I had to weld in to make the boat lift work. While we had the paint out, my wife looked at the abused old pontoon boat sitting there, and before I knew it, she had painted the front of the pontoon aluminum sheet metal "siding" with the aluthane. It looks amazing! basically no prep, and applied with a cheap disposable brush, it appears to have been sprayed on, shows the grain of the siding beautifully, and just looks great!

We put the remainder of leftover paint into canning jars with little or no air above them, hopefully it will keep that way for some time... I have a feeling we'll be painting all the pontoon siding at some point in the future!"

Hi,
The Aluthane is incredible, I used it on an old aluminum canoe and it is the best coating I have ever used. I will be using it on a very beat up aluminum boat I just bought.
Thanks Vinny

Google "aluthane"

You'll find a lot of references and comments on various sites and blogs that we have no control over

Find Aluthane (industrial site)

Find Aluthane (marine site)

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