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We are the only technology based coating/epoxy/resin company that actively encourages your phone calls, not just during our East Coast work hours but also after/before hours, evening, weekends and even holidays. We're available when you are. We form a personal relationship with our customers and freely share technical information, how to-advice, product information and tips-and-tricks. Speak with a non-salesman technical professional with over 25 years of experience in the resin/coating/epoxy industry (no newbie staffer on the phone lines!). Floors, tables, boats, leaks, rot repair. We handle it all! We are an 'always available,' one-on-one, technical/scientific, coating company (watch our video). We are NOT one of those fluffy/slick mass sales firms the dominate the internet selling cheap third party (made in China???), low end epoxies and coatings with no real knowledge of what they are selling and quotas to sell to as many people as possible. 603-435-7199 (east coat time).
"The Epoxy Guru" Ask me your questions
7 epoxies/coatings to fix 'darn near' everything - today's best coating technologies
See how Sunken Yacht is saved by epoxies applied underwater
DIY epoxy repair links
1) Product Name - 2) Product Prices - 3) Link to Product Catalog Page
ONE PAGE SUMMARY LIST OF MARINE PRODUCTS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM - CLICK HERE .
buy marine epoxy, wet dry 700, epoxy paint - BUY HERE
ONE PAGE SUMMARY LIST OF HOME/INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM - CLICK HERE .
buy wet dry 700, epoxy paint, floor epoxy, pebble stone epoxy, bar top epoxy - BUY HERE
MSDS AND DATA SHEETS - CLICK HERE .
You're email epoxy help questions are welcome. One of our 'claims to fame' is that we answer emails usually several times a day, almost 365 days a year. It is not unusual to have several back and forth email exchanges with someone over a regular weekend or holiday weekend. As you'll note below, all the legal disclaims to what we suggest are in place (as you would expect in today's business environment!).
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Our Help Team
"If you've heard this story before, don't stop me,
because I'd like to hear it again." - Groucho Marx
BIG list of internet links for: FLOOR EPOXY PAINTS - GARAGE FLOOR COATINGS
BIG list of internet links for: EPOXY BOAT BUILDING - REPAIR - MARINE EPOXIES - BLISTER FIXES - BARRIER COATS
BIG list of internet links for: EPOXY REPAIRS - ROT - LEAKS - PIPE REPAIR - UNDERWATER REPAIRS
BIG list of internet links for: EPOXY BASICS - GETTING STARTED WITH EPOXIES - EPOXY 101
TWO PART MARINE EPOXIES- CLEAR EPOXIES
Section A EPOXY PAINTS
; NSP 120; water gard 300 ; CM 15; crack coat™
FILLERS THICKENERS ADDITIVES
fumed silica; microsphere/balloons; poly fibers; copper; graphite; Teflon (tm); wood flour; EZ thick; rock flour
THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
wet/dry 700; splash zone; quick fix 2300, QR 2400 rubber epoxy
Section C THICKENED EPOXIES - EPOXY PUTTIES, ETC.
wet/dry 700; splash zone A-788, quick fix 2300; QR 2400 (tm) rubber epoxy
TWO PART EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)
corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; EZ Spray; epoxy primer; crack coat™
Section D CLEAR TWO PART EPOXIES
low V epoxy; basic no blush; ESP 155; Bio-Clear 810
Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS Aluthane (aluminum coating); LPU Marine
Section E NON-EPOXY PAINTS SEALERS
Aluthane moisture cured urethane; Acrylic Poly UV Plus and other 2 part polys ; Capt. Tolley's creeping crack sealer
NON-SKID DECK COATINGS
walnut shell; ground white rubber
Section F MIX-IN ADDITIVES
fumed silica; fiber fill; micro balloons/micro-spheres; graphite; Teflon (tm); copper powder; wood flour; EZ thick, rock flour
MARINE REPAIR PRODUCTS
pipe wrap; fiberglass tape (cloth); Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure
MISC. MARINE PRODUCTS
short nap rollers; TA 661 (solvent free epoxy clean-up); 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors
BUY FROM OUR SIMPLE STOREFRONT
- not all products - nothing with solvents or shipping
Call (603-435-7199) or EMAIL with questions /phone orders etc. about what you're doing. We try to earn your business one phone call at a time!
Epoxy Essentials (tm)
DID YOU KNOW...
Epoxy coatings are used because of their
outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond
Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical
reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard
Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.
Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.
By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.
Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).
The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.
End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.
Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.
Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.
It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.
How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.
NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings, etc. are required reading before using web site, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms. CLICK HERE to access these terms. Please note: Whenever you purchase from this web site, and with each new purchase, you are granting us full and complete permission to add you to our email newsletter list at our option.
RETURNS: call or email for authorization to return. Returns are subject to a 25% restock fee. Customer pays return shipping and must comply with federal DOT shipping requirement/labeling for hazmat epoxies under penalty of fines and legal action.
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