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Click here - YouTube video. Learn about Progressive Epoxy Polymers Inc.

EVAL4U - how to evaluate your epoxy vendor - CLICK HERE

test your knowledge of epoxies and the suitability of your floor with this SELF TEST, before you commit!

If you are here - looking to seal the floors of a shipping container, you are in the wrong spot - CLICK HERE - for the shipping container floor sealing page.

If you are here - looking to do a 'penny floor', you are in the wrong spot - CLICK HERE - for the penny floor page.





Lots of issues and things to consider when dealing with floor coatings and epoxies - this page tries to explain them all.

When you are educated on epoxy floor issues - CLICK HERE - to advance to our home / commercial DIY online catalog FLOOR PRODUCTS section. It lists and describes (with prices and buying links) the actual products and accessories Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. sells for your epoxy floor.



Epoxy painting a concrete floor can be one of the most unhappy

experiences you can have. Lots of things can go wrong,

a lot of them outside of your control.


The Ideal concrete floor is: 1) an clean, semi-new commercial location and a constant climate controlled environment, 2) an existing painted floor that is showing is problems or issues but needs a 'new look', 3) a semi-new, fresh and clean garage floor is a subdivision of homes all built at the same time by a professional home building company. In many cases a professional or good DYI surface prep program will allow the applicator to just roll down a coat of two of epoxy and walk away....... BUT IF YOUR SITUATION IS NOT ONE OF THE ABOVE, YOU MIGHT HAVE SERIOUS ISSUES AND SURPRISES AHEAD OF YOU...


* if there is no vapor barrier under the concrete (or if the concrete is underground - i.e. a basement) then moisture issues, which can only be partially addressed (Bio Vee Seal) may rule out an epoxy coating.


* is the concrete good enough? Perhaps it was poured with not enough water and is weak and dusty. Again, it can be partially addressed (ESP 155) but that may not be good enough. Ditto if it has oil or grease stains - can they be cleaned well enough for the epoxy to bond well? Often the answer is no...


* surface prep - homeowners rarely can use the 'shot blast' or grinders used by professional epoxy floor pros. This is even more of the case in basement situations.


* only in serious professional applications is the surfaces 'pounded' with a machine to remove air from the wet concrete mix. Without it, the cured cement is full of air spaces. When the temperatures increase during the day, the air expands and comes out of the concrete (called outgassing). This results in thousands of bubbles forming and staying in the thickening epoxy just applied over the concrete - this is a real disaster. Again there are some partial ways to work around this potential issue.


* so, do you need a primer first? Inexpensive water based floor epoxy or thicker, tougher solvent free (or low solvent) floor epoxy?


* is the air temperature or the concrete temperature too hot or two cold for epoxy application?


* if you want colored chips, how dense do you want them (how much to buy)? what colors? What percentage of each color?


* if you want colored chips, do you want to just sprinkle them on the wet epoxy (very low end DIY) or put them into a more professional 'middle clear coat" of epoxy or polyurethane? And then you will need at least one coat of uv blocking clear poly over the chips (Acrylic Poly UV plus - not for sale in California). Note that your floor could be require from 1 to 7 layers of products - each meaning more of your time and money.


* will you be using special epoxy rollers with or without a squeegee?


* if you are going for the colored sand finish, the same issues as with the colored chips apply.


* what about non-skip additives or coatings? Do you need them?


* what is HOT TIRE PICKUP, and how do I deal with it?




WHAT CAN GO WRONG --- You won't find our competitors telling you these things! What can go wrong  with your epoxy floor - The Problem Page CLICK HERE

You cannot epoxy fill your expansion joints. Leave them open or find some third party product

FYI: The difference between floor epoxy paints and 'regular' epoxy paints is that the floor epoxies are more self leveling. Lacking "body" they are now recommended for walls and vertical surfaces where they will drip and sag more than 'regular' epoxy paints. That said, you an use 'regular' epoxy paints on your floor also. Goto section A of this catalog -- the epoxy paint section.

"You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You." Brian S.  (call us at 603 435 7199 ANYTIME)

"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe

Now that you are educated on epoxy floor issues - CLICK HERE - to advance to our home / commercial DIY online catalog FLOOR PRODUCTS section. It lists and describes (with prices and buying links) the products and accessories Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. sells for your epoxy floor.



"The Old Goat" floor coatings and Q and A site - CLICK HERE






Epoxy Floor On Large Garage - primer/base/chips/clear coat

"Good afternoon Paul!

My floor is done and it is all over but the smell from the two part polyurethane top coat.

. HA! Cool temps worked in my favor to keep pot-life long but the rainy weather tried to work against me. I ended up tarping over my garage door opening so I could get the area under the seal done without dealing with water on the floor. A cheap rubber squeegee from Harbor Freight was an essential item because it is way too tough to get even distribution of the industrial floor epoxy with just a roller. The squeegee was the same price as a single 24" roller tube anyway and it worked great. I ended up broadcasting chips into the epoxy rather than the clear coat because I wanted a slightly smoother floor. It probably took more chips this way but I think it was a fair trade.

If I had to do it over again I'd seriously consider putting chips into a clear epoxy middle coat because even with two coats of poly my basement floor is a bit rougher than I thought it would be. I ended up putting a third coat of UV Poly on the garage floor and it still seems pretty non-skid but is smooth enough that it will be easier to keep clean.

The coverage estimates were spot on for Floor epoxy and UV Poly top coat. The Primer was another story, my basement floor was pumped concrete and after bead blasting it was like a cement sponge! The poured concrete on my mail level took the primer as expected.

I'm very happy with the results and will be ordering another gallon of UV clear from you when it is time to do the steps and landings.

Thanks again!"

Gordon 4/16

About 1600 sf business floor - used Esp 155 primer sealer, 15 gallons of Industrial Floor Epoxy and Acrylic Poly UV Plus two part clear epoxy topcoat. Chips purchased direct from


Why You Don't Want, Or Need, A Cycloaliphatic Epoxy Floor Paint

There are probably dozens of companies (of dubious quality) selling epoxy floor paints over the Internet. Only one of them that I know of promotes a cycloaliphatic epoxy floor paint. Why only one? If it was such an advantage, other epoxy floor vendors would also offer cycloaliphatic epoxy floor paint. The answer is that at best it is  a useless option, at worst, it is a scam.

What are Cycloaliphatic epoxies? Two part cycloaliphatic epoxies use a special cycloaliphatic curing agent or hardener with the standard epoxy (part A) resin. This curing agent (most part B curing agents are actually a blend of different curing agents) improves some of the ordinary epoxy properties. These include outdoor weatherability, better chemical resistance (ordinary epoxies already have outstanding chemical resistance), and better moisture tolerance during application.

Note: cycloaliphatic epoxies are good for things like table top and bar top epoxies and are also used modern telephone pole wire insulators.

None of the benefits/gains associated with cycloaliphatic epoxies are needed in a floor epoxy paint. Simply put, it is unnecessary overkill. And the  downside is that it increases the cost by about 20%. If the price of company's cycloaliphatic epoxy paint is NOT 20% more expensive than its competitor's non cycloaliphatic epoxy it suggests three things: 1) the company doesn't want to make a profit and stay in business, 2) they are cutting costs in some other way or using cheaper quality resins, pigments etc.  (generally not a good thing), or 3) they are only adding a very tiny amount of cycloaliphatic curing agents into their part B blend of curing agents - just enough to claim cycloaliphatic status (sort of unethical).

So why would a company claim the cycloaliphatic floor epoxy paint niche? I can think of only two reasons. 1)  trying to impress unsuspecting customers, or 2) the company doesn't have anyone on staff that is really an epoxy expert and coatings professional.

Your best epoxy floor option? A 100% solids epoxy like Industrial Floor Epoxy (tm) -

visit catalog page.

Learn more. Visit a massive web site of epoxy floor links

Paul Oman - MS. MBA - A.K.A. “Professor E. Poxy” - epoxies since 1994

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers) -- SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)





Best advice from an Epoxy PRO on how to avoid a $$$ DIY epoxy floor disaster

(you won't learn this on any other epoxy floor site)

If any of the following apply or might apply to you:

1) no vapor barrier, or don't know if there is a vapor barrier under your slab; 2) suspect there might be moisture issues in/on the slab; 3) suspect the concrete was not 'vibrated down' and contains lots of air spaces (which can cause bubbles and blisters in the wet epoxy); 4) cannot professionally prep the floor (usually means a shot blast contractor); 5) any existing coating on the floor is peeling and lifting; 6) the concrete seems dusty, gritty, weak or crumbling; 7) you are worried about "hot tire pickup" lifting off your epoxy floor; 8) you have oil stains on the floor (especially OLD oil stains).......

If so, consider putting an inexpensive epoxy primer / sealer (such as ESP 155 - an Internet Favorite epoxy coating - not for sale in California) on the entire floor or over those potential trouble spots. Then wait a few weeks or months and see what happens. If everything looks great it is very likely that a 'fancy' epoxy top coat will be successful and probably issue free. You might even decide to just keep the sealed floor and skip the thicker mostly decorative (or at least thicker and pigmented) epoxy top coat (such as 0% VOC INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY).

If problems developed with the thin, nearly clear ESP 155 epoxy sealer, it is not that big a deal. No worse than having some deck/porch enamel paint lift and peel. You won't trip over it, it is not so 'in your face', and you saved big $$$ that you would have spent on the epoxy, paint chip, top coat. Some existing concrete surfaces are just not good candidates for an epoxy coating. QUESTIONS? email OR call 603 435 7199. Floor Links Page. Learn all about epoxy floors.


epoxyt floor paint



Links to Lots of MUST READ Information Articles About the Best Epoxy Floor Paints, Including Preparation, Alternatives, What Can Go Wrong, etc.

floor related articles, info, links





Clear Top Coats  - FLOOR CLEAR TOP

Best Floor Epoxy - CLICK HERE

Epoxy Quartz Floor - BROADCAST FLOOR

Acid Etching - ACID

Epoxy Paint Chip Floor - CHIPS

Epoxy Paint vs. Floor Epoxy Paint - EPOXY PAINTS

Epoxy Paint - SURFACE PREP

Floor Basics/Options - START HERE

Floor Epoxy - CATALOG PAGE



Quick Start to Understanding Epoxy Floors

The most simple epoxy floor 'system' has you clean and sweep your floor, roll down the epoxy and perhaps throw down some colored chips on top (or some non-skid grit).  Most box store and internet epoxy floor  web sites fall into this category. The system generally works, but it is not how a professional contractor would do an epoxy floor.

At the other end of the extreme is the following:  renting a floor grinder to grind 'open' the floor and remove old coatings, or a shot-blast machine for the same thing. Other prep methods might include acid etching, high pressure water etc. These do nothing for grease and oil stains which you might never get clean enough for the epoxy to stick over them.

Next in the 'extremely professional' approach is  an optional concrete internal sealer to help control moisture in the concrete, followed by an optional epoxy primer (either a water based epoxy or a solvent thinned epoxy). Then the working coat of water or solvent free epoxy paint. Colored chips are added into a middle clear coat of either clear epoxy or clear polyurethane. Then a sealing coat of clear polyurethane (The best are 2 part polys with massive uv blockers to keep the epoxy (clear and pigmented) from yellowing in the UV light (these special 2 part polys - like our acrylic poly uv plus - are similar to auto clear coat and have uv blockers). Our acrylic poly UV plus cannot be sold in Calf . 99.9% of clear 1 and 2 part polyurethanes do not have substantial UV blockers.

Issues you have to consider include:

1) how much surface prep you are willing to do?

2) how much money and time (and layers of coatings) you are willing to deal with?

3) should you use a primer?

4) which kind of epoxy you want to use - water based, solvent free, (we offer the only epoxy floor coating with non skid grit mixed in). It may be too hot to apply some types in summer.

5) the amount, size, and colors of the colored paint chips if you go this route. (we are the only ones that send you to the 2 paint chip manufacturers to buy direct). How much of the floor do  you want covered in chips? 5%, 25 % 100%??? There are DIY alternatives to the chips such as flicking paint droplets onto the floor.

6) do you put the chips directly upon the colored epoxy or do you put them into a clear epoxy middle coat, or a 2 part poly middle coat? Clear epoxies will yellow so if you put paint chips into a thick clear epoxy middle coat )you need special uv protection on top. Using the clear epoxy puts the chips into a thick middle coat instead of thin middle coat giving a different look and texture.

7) many concrete surfaces are full of air and if you apply the epoxy at the wrong time the epoxy  will be covered with bubbles and popped bubbles with razor sharp edges. (usually only an issue when the cement was poured NOT by a professional concrete vendor who uses special machines to get the air out of the wet concrete). THIS CAN SOMETIMES BE A BIG ISSUE. IF THE OTHER VENDOR WEB SITES DON'T WARN YOU OF THIS - DON'T SUPPORT THEM WITH YOUR BUSINESS!

 8) the often used clear top coat is an issue too. Good ones cost too much for use in mass market floor kits and the 'auto clear coat' grade is hard to find and $$. Do you really need one?

9) hard working floors with forklifts and other heavy tools need an epoxy floor fully saturated with sand or aluminum oxide so that the quartz sand grains, and not the much softer epoxy resin, is supporting the load and drag of the heavy equipment. - this is the other extreme from an epoxy floor just to keep dust and dirt down and hide a few cracks.

All these issues, solutions, options, (prep issues, type of epoxies, quartz epoxy floors, where to get the paint chips, clear coat options etc) are all addressed with links to them in our EPOXY FLOOR LINKS PAGE.  Better still, just call us at 603-435-7199 anytime  for immediate answers and suggestions. A suggestion is to order a 48 oz test unit of our solvent free Industrial Floor epoxy (our most popular commercial grade floor epoxy available in light gray or beige) to test and play with in advance of your big project and climb a bit of the learning curve. (order at our simple web store -  You may decide to skip then entire paint chip complication and just use the monochrome one color epoxy. Also be sure to see our floor epoxy section of our online epoxy catalog.

Top List of Reasons for using Our Floor Epoxies:

1) our solvent free, zero voc, Industrial Floor Epoxy is a commercial grade epoxy repackaged in 1.5 gal units for DIY customers (still available in 15 gal kits packed in 5 gal pails)

2) Water Bond water based floor epoxy is 2nd/3rd generation floor epoxy (unlike what is sold in the box stores)

3) Rough Coat epoxy is the only epoxy floor paint with non skid grit (boat decks /porches etc)

4) 24/7 phone and email support

5) honest and complete info (pro and con) on this site. You get the FULL story.

6) sold by an epoxy coating company and not a sales/marketing firm

7) made in the USA

8) a favorite with both experienced professionals and 1st time DIY individuals

9) our esp 155 epoxy sealer can be used under floor epoxies or as a cheap floor coating by itself

9) we appreciate your interest and thank you sincerely for your business!





Basic Two Part Epoxy Floor Coating info needed for making an informed epoxy floor decision.

Water based floor epoxies are two part coatings that provide epoxy properties in a latex type two part formulation. The 'water' in them helps them penetrate into surfaces, thus sort of a de facto primer for itself or under thicker solvent free floor epoxies. On the downside they are very thin and don't hide imperfections. The other big option is a thicker solvent free floor epoxy. These are thicker and smoother but it is 100% surface bonding, so a good surface is critical. Some contractors/users start with a primer coat - either a water based epoxy or by adding solvent to the solvent free epoxies (as a first come primer but sometimes in the one and only coat being applied). The addition of solvent does a few things - extends working time (pot life), will degrade some of the epoxy properties, will thin the epoxy and make application easier, help the epoxy (in theory) penetrate a little bit into the surface.

It is important that you know the following. Two part epoxies (especially solvent free epoxies) have a working time of 5 to 60 minutes or so. Working time will very with the epoxy but is also GREATLY AFFECTED by temperature (warmer temps mean shorting working time) and the amount mixed (large batches have a shorter working time). Never mix more than you can use in about 20 minutes. In colder weather the epoxies are much thicker and harder to work with, they get thinner as the temperature increases.

Epoxies yellow in sunlight, some worse than others (the water based epoxies don't yellow a whole lot). Light gray turns to a light green gray. Clear epoxies and white epoxies turn yellow. Light blue becomes light aqua. Dark colors or colors with a lot of yellow in them (black, beige, dark green) don't show the yellowing (even though they do yellow!). Yellowing is stopped or prevented by avoiding direct sunlight, painting with an enamel, poly, or latex, or top coating with a good UV blocker (our 2 part Acrylic Poly UV plus).




When it comes to floor epoxies, the way to pick/evaluate your vendor/supplier is not by what they tell you but by what the don't tell you

Putting down an epoxy on a cement floor can be tricky and lots of things (some outside of your control) can go wrong, almost all of which have nothing to do with the epoxy (so not the vendors' responsibility). Informing you of possible problems and possible ways around those problems could cost the vendor your business and send you off to a more 'cheerful and happy (and cheaper)' floor epoxy vendor web site. An example is an epoxy primer under the epoxy floor paint. It some situations it could save your butt, but more likely you'll just go to a site that doesn't mention using a primer (thus saving you money and time - but also a flooring failure).

What To Watch Out For From Epoxy Floor Vendor Sites:

1) There are water based floor epoxies and solvent free (sometime solvent based) floor epoxies. Some vendors don't explain the differences and use those differences to to make their product sound so much better (when it is an unequal comparison).

2) Epoxies yellow in sunlight (UV) and over time, especially the non-water based epoxies. This should be make know to you up front.

3) If your concrete is weak or crumpling (lots of dusting) - it could be your surface is not a good candidate for an epoxy floor, or at least one without a primer to 'firm' up the surface. Does your vendor mention weak or dusty concrete?

4) Lots of cement floors do not have a vapor barrier under them and those floors may have water - dampness issues (especially in below grade basement situations). Moisture issues under, on, and inside the cement could make an epoxy coating job a potential failure (there are some things you can try). You should be informed of this possible issue.

5) Many cement floors are full of air (cement can be like a sponge) and as the day warms the air in the cement expands and forms bubbles (popped or unpopped) in the starting-to-harden epoxy. The result is a disaster. Where you warned that this could happen? Did they suggest fixes if your concrete has lots of air?

6) Old oil and grease stains can cause epoxies to peel right off. You may never be able to remove and degrease these areas no matter what you do to clean them. You should know this up-front.

7) Finally, do these vendors rely to emails or phone calls during the evening or on the weekends when you are working on your floor? Shoot them an email on Friday night and see if you get a reply before Monday or ever.



The primary differences between floor epoxy paints and 'regular' epoxy paints are the following: Floor epoxies are thinner and have less 'body' so that they will flow out nicely and quickly self level. On a vertical surface they are more likely to drip and sag. Secondly, floor epoxies tend to have short or shorter working times (pot life). You cannot have a long pot life and a quick cure (hardening) of the epoxy. People want or need to use their floors as soon as possible so the trade-off is a shorter pot life. This is balanced by the reality that many epoxy floors are applied in summertime. In a perfect world there would be 'cold, average and hot' weather versions of the floor epoxy... Someday........


High Quality Commercial Grade DIY Floor Project

"I have been looking for a good Commercial grade garage floor Epoxy system with color flakes and had a hard time till I stumble onto your web site. Most of the product that I find out there are the lower grade product that I’m not interested on, by the way this is for my own personal use in my 550 square foot, standard two car garage, that is the reason I want a good system. I understand I can purchase from you such products. I will need some advise on what you’ll recommend based on my needs. I see you carry two types of epoxy at two different prices. Please I would greatly appreciate if someone could get back to me with the type of product and all the necessary material to do an epoxy flake floor system with a clear top coat finish. Thank you."

 - Franco 1/15

Thank you for the kind email. The simplest system is simply to roll down a coat of epoxy and sprinkle some colored flakes on top of it. You are wise to seek a more commercial/professional system, but still within a DIY budget and skill set.

Here is a suggest system (with a few options included):

1) Surface prep: folks go from simple sweeping to Shot Blasting or Grinding. Each floor is different and some floors are not suitable for coating no matter how you attempt to prepare it. We cannot make official recommendations - it is truly your call, but check out our page on surface prep.

2) Epoxy primer:  epoxy floor primers are optional and most floor epoxy manufacturers do not require or sell them. That said, many (not all) experienced epoxy floor contractors recommend or require it. They claim better results, better bond, etc. Consider it extra insurance for a problem free project. You might prime and wait a few weeks before continuing. If bad stuff happens  (peeling, lifting, bubbles, etc.) it is only the thin coat of primer involved. Recommended primer ESP 155 1/2 gal unit covers about 150 square feet (not for sale in Southern California). Order 4 units for your 2 car garage.

3) Roll down a coat of solvent free Industrial Floor Epoxy. A 1.5 gal unit will cover just under 200 square feet. Colors are light gray or beige. Order 3 units for your 2 car garage. apply with a short roller. Order  2- 4 rollers. Let the epoxy cure for one or more days.

4) Order colored chips direct from the chip manufacture. You pick color and percent of each color. 100% chip coverage requires 1 pound of chips per 7-10 square feet. That said, most 2 car garages use two or three 10 pound bags of chips. Order chips direct from  Chips Unlimited.

5) Next a clear middle coat of epoxy or polyurethane is applied and the chips are sprinkled onto the wet coating and then application roller is rolled over the chips and coating (called back rolling). The roller picks up the chips and re-deposits them. Add more chips as needed, fix mistakes with a paper towel wipe-up.  Epoxy middle coat: thicker, no odor, but all epoxies yellow without special top coating. Two part poly middle coat: thin to start with, but also roll on thin not thick,  smelly, leaves some texture from the chips, not for sale in California, doesn't yellow. If using epoxy - Order 4 units of Low V Floor. If using 2 part poly - Order 2 - 3 units of Acrylic Poly UV Plus 2 part poly.

Note that the added materials for the epoxy middle chip coat add about $400  to the total cost compared to the Acrylic Poly Plus middle coat.

6) The clear topcoat over the chips in step 5 is the same Acrylic Poly UV plus. Two coats rolled on thin if going over an epoxy/chip, middle coat. Order 4 units of Acrylic Poly Plus (2 coats).  One or two coats if going over the same Acrylic Poly UV plus used with the chips in the middle poly/chip layer.


PRODUCT SUMMARY - 2 part poly middle coat with chips: 4 units ESP 155 primer; 3 units Industrial Floor Epoxy;  4 units Acrylic Poly UV Plus; optional short nap rollers (2-4) for the Industrial Floor Epoxy layer.

PRODUCT SUMMARY - Low V Floor clear epoxy middle coat with chips: 4 units of ESP 155 primer; 3 units of Industrial Floor Epoxy; 3 units of Low V Floor Epoxy; 4 units of Acrylic Poly UV Plus; optional short nap rollers (2-4)

PRODUCT SUMMARY - 20-30 pounds of chips ordered directly from Chips Unlimited.

COST ESTIMATES - (either system) - about $3 to $4 per square foot plus Chips (chips are under $150)




Using 'Regular' epoxies as concrete floor epoxy coating - paint.

Often adding about 10-15% solvent to a solvent free epoxy paint will thin it enough to self level nicely, as a 'floor epoxy' would. This increases your epoxy floor options. Note that this will extend the working time and also the time it takes for the epoxy to harden completely. On the plus side it will help the epoxy bond to the surface.

Our Water Gard 300 is a high end epoxy paint available in white or light blue (watch out for the epoxy yellowing).



Prep and Priming Issues

Epoxy Floor Paints

PREP - professional contactors will generally either 'shot blast' or cement grind existing floors in preparation for an epoxy floor coating. These options are not usually available to the DIY homeowner. That said, the little prep done by most homeowners usually results in a successful coating job. See our page on floor prep for more information.

PRIMING -  I don't know of any epoxy floor paint manufacturer that requires a primer for their product. If they did they wouldn't sell very much product. Almost all epoxy floors applied by contractors and homeowners do not use a primer under the epoxy. But some very professional, high end epoxy floor contractors will always use a primer first. The added cost of money and time probably is the primary reason why only some professionals insist on a primer.

There are advantages to using a primer: 1) primers soak into the cement a bit, while most epoxies just sit on top, thus a better and deeper bond (and bond failure is the real issue here); 2) if there are problem areas or other issues it is much better to catch them during the primer step than when the $$ finished product is applied; 3) a primer could reduce or stop out-gassing from the concrete (often a surprise crisis); it could help to lessen issues of poor surface prep or not very good concrete; it might help to 'seal in' or 'seal off' oils, greases and other materials that will prevent epoxy bonding and have been removed from the surface but still remain below the surface.

Epoxy primers are generally solvent thinned high quality epoxy. Our concrete sealer and primer is called ESP 155. It comes in 1/2 gal units that cover about 150 sf. Find in our catalog - ( -  order from our primary store front (in the EPOXIES subsection) 


More floor links  (dozens of floor coating articles) Visit: .




Big Floor Project? Our 100% solids INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY can be purchased in any gallon amount over 15 gal, packed in 5 gal pails and shipped direct from the factory. Our regular 1.5 gal kits are always in stock for immediate shipping. 15 gal covers about 2,000 sf. Find Industrial Floor Epoxy, with pricing, in the floor section of our catalog - or call 603 - 435 - 7199



* Massive Site of Best Two Part Epoxy Concrete Floor Epoxy

Paint / Coating Links

(basics, problems, issues, options, etc.) CLICK HERE



* Concrete sealing /sealers info page - epoxy and non epoxy options - Click Here -

* Understanding The Difference Between Floor Paints, Wall Paints, and Basic Marine Type Resins/Epoxies CLICK HERE

* Pinholes/air bubbles in the epoxy (rarely an issue with residential garages - often a problem with walkways/barns/workshops/hangers etc. CLICK HERE

* Use our short nap epoxy roller to avoid lint from ordinary rollers collecting in the epoxy.

* Special epoxy rollers - CLICK HERE

* Reduce or eliminate out gassing by sealing the cement first with a thinned epoxy sealer like our ESP 155™.

* Clear topcoats - buyer beware! (our clear topcoats are in the non-epoxy catalog section)


Concrete Sealing in a Nutshell

There are 3 kinds of concrete sealers

1) inexpensive products that contain wax or paraffin dissolved in a solvent. Easy and cheap, but if you use these you will ever be able to coat the surface with any kind of paint or epoxy (you cannot paint on wax!). You cannot remove with solvents, which will just move the wax around. Use this kind of sealer and you are locked out of doing anything else forever.

2) Liquid sealers that are like paint and sit on the surface you are coating. No way you be be certain these will not peel or chip off and they may prevent you from top coating them with other products.

3) Internal concrete sealers, like our Bio Vee Seal. Bio Vee soaks into the exposed concrete and forms crystals within the concrete itself. It leaves nothing (except perhaps some tiny white crystals) on the surface. There is nothing to peel or chip and it leaves the surface as it was, allowing you full options to top coat with any product.

Useful links: Bio Vee --- 

Concrete Sealers  ---  

Industry article on sealing  --- 

basement leaks/sealing  --- 

Floor coating links

or call 24/7 for help or to order - 603 435 - 7199


Now that you are educated on epoxy floor issues - CLICK HERE - to advance to our home / commercial DIY online catalog FLOOR PRODUCTS section. It lists and describes (with prices and buying links) the products and accessories Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. sells for your epoxy floor.






corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; crack coat™; liqua tile 1172 potable water;water prime

Find Corro Coat FC 2100 and Water Gard 300  epoxy in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog

Section B FLOOR EPOXIES (regular and non-skid products), SEALERS, ACCESSORIES

water bond (water based); industrial floor epoxy; bio vee seal; walnut shell; rough coat grit filled epoxy floor paint; epoxy clear top resin


wet/dry 700; splash zone A-788, epoxy cream; splash zone a-788

Find Wet Dry 700 epoxy in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog


low V epoxy; basic no blush; ESP 155; Bio-Clear 810; epoxy clear top resin

Find Low V, Basic No Blush, and ES 155 epoxy in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog


Aluthane moisture cured urethane; Acrylic Poly UV Plus and other 2 part polys ; Capt. Tolley's creeping crack sealer; india spar varnish;

Find Aluthane in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog


fumed silica; fiber fill; micro balloons/micro-spheres; graphite;  wood flour; EZ thick, rock flour;


water activated pipe wrap; TA 661 solvent-free epoxy brush cleaner; fiberglass tape/cloth




short nap epoxy rollers; epoxy/stone deck resurfacing roller; 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors

Legal Stuff / Returns

NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings, etc. are required reading before using web site, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms. CLICK HERE  to access these terms. Please note: Whenever you purchase from this web site, and with each new purchase, you are granting us full and complete permission to add you to our email newsletter list at our option.

RETURNS: call or email for authorization to return. Returns are subject to a 25% restock fee. Customer pays return shipping and must comply with federal DOT shipping requirement/labeling for hazmat epoxies under penalty of fines and legal action.

Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.  Pittsfield, NH 02363  - 603-435-7199 - email -


Navigation Bar frame replacement CLICK HERE mobile friendly key site links