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Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.
Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)
"Professionals helping Professionals"
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Does the epoxy blush (also known as Amine Blush, Epoxy Blush, Blush)? Blush is a waxy layer that forms on
the surface of cheaper epoxies when they cure. If your vendor's epoxy doesn't blush, they will mention it proudly.
If blushing is not mentioned, you've learned two things: it probably does blush and the vendor doesn't think you
should know.
Does the vendor accept credit cards? Credit card purchases protect both the buyer and seller. From the buyer's
perspective there is no acceptable reason why the vendor cannot or will not accept credit cards.
Does the vendor recommend two or more coats of epoxy when it seem reasonable that one coat will do? Each extra
coat is easy money for the vendor.
Is the epoxy manufactured in the same country you're in? Overseas shipping of small amounts of product is expensive,
and refunds, exchanges, returns, and insurance claims are difficult. Beware of vendors that hide the origin of
their product.
Is the vendor pushing you to purchase mixing sticks at 3 for $1.00, pricey special
purpose ‘kits' containing tiny amounts of epoxy, or their own overpriced thinner or clean-up chemical (instead
of telling you which clean-up product to buy at the hardware store)? Such actions are in line with $6 hospital
aspirin.
If an underwater epoxy, does it contain MDA. If it does,
you lose.
Does your epoxy Part B use cycloaliphatic curatives?
The best epoxies do!
Is the epoxy ‘hazmat'? If it is you will either see ORM-D or hazmat labels on the shipping box. Usually the better
epoxies do not require hazmat or ORM-D shipping. Why use hazmat epoxies when you can use non-hazmat epoxies?
Epoxies are chemicals and all chemicals in the USA require something called a MSDS (material data safety sheet)
The MSDS lists basic chemical composition, safety hazards and restrictions. They can look pretty scary - the MSDS
for coffee might shock you. You should get a MSDS when you buy epoxy - or at least get it if you ask for it. If
you have trouble getting a product MSDS there is probably something in or something about the product the vendor
would rather you did not know.
Is the vendor trying to sell you many different kinds of epoxies? Epoxies are not as task specific as most vendors
would want you to believe. Often with the addition of thickening agents or cure accelerators one product will handle
all your requirements. Less money for the vendor, more for you. From my perspective, there is often little or no
difference between using an epoxy as an adhesive and as a coating.
Is your epoxy sold through an extensive network of distributors and outlets? Despite the convenience, that's not
a good thing. Lots of distributors means the product is priced for the distributor's gain, not for the end user's
benefit. See User Friendly Pricing.
Most epoxies are now solvent-free (also know as 100% SOLIDS or 0% VOC). Many so-called penetrating epoxies are
just epoxies with lots of solvents. Save the mark-up and add you own solvents. An epoxy with 50% VOC means you're
only getting half the epoxy you're paying for.
If the product directions tell you to let the epoxy sit for a period of time after mixing and before you apply
it, that's called Induction Time. Generally only the lowest quality epoxies require an induction time wait.
The better epoxies are pretty tolerant of slight errors in mixing ratios. If your epoxy directions keep stressing
exact mixing, or require special mixing pumps, beware. Pumps aren't offered purely for the convenience of the end
user. More often they are for the protection of the vendor.
Mix ratios close to 1 to 1 are generally better than ones very different in ratio. Closer mixing ratios allow more
give-and-take when working with either Part A or Part B.
With the good epoxies the components don't crystalize in storage and separation or settling during storage is minor
or non-existent.
Some epoxies generate dangerous (excessive) amounts of heat
at the end of their potlife and some epoxies are much more brittle than others. To evaluate these characteristics
you will probably have to test samples of each vendor's product, or talk to users of the products.
There is no such thing as free. Vendor trade show booths, four color ads, fancy packaging, free booklets all come
out of your pocket when everything is said and done.
FYI - In my observations, the worst of the low-end epoxies can be found in the floor epoxy and marine
barrier coat markets.
FYI - toughest application - swimming pools.
FYI - 70% of epoxy coating failures are due to surface preparation issues. Many of the other failures are due to
mixing errors.
FYI - epoxies yellow, chalk, and degrade in sunlight (some much worse than others). There is no such thing as a
long term white or clear epoxy.
FYI - the mixing of Part A and Part B is an exact chemical reaction. You do not 'adjust' the reaction by using more or less of Part A or Part B.
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Knowledge is Power - We like informed consumers!
Learn the basics of epoxy at our educational EPOXY 101 page - Click Here.
Finally, email us back with your questions or comments before you buy - EMAIL HERE