keywords = marine epoxy, no blush, clear, goo, resin

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Epoxy Wood Fiberglass cloth at work!

COMPARING MARINE EPOXY RESINS

sometimes called - "goo"

- WHAT TO LOOK FOR -

Find the Best Marine Epoxy for You

(generally used with fiberglass cloth)

Quick Buy -- BASIC NO BLUSH (tm) MARINE EPOXY -- Now

Your Host and Tour Guide:

Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

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All epoxies ("goo") are not the same. Look for non blushing marine epoxies - even if they cost a few bucks more. With a blushing marine epoxy (most of the epoxies sold are blushing epoxies) - you might always wonder if you have a good bond between coats and why you're paint isn't sticking. Plus you have to wash the surface between coats to remove the visible or invisible blush.

If the epoxy manufacturers really cared about your needs they would only sell you non-blushing epoxies (speaking in general terms - there are always exceptions) and not even offer blushing epoxies upon unsuspecting buyers. 

More about amine blush - CLICK HERE (amine epoxy blush).

Also, cycloaliphatic curing agent based epoxies are probably more durable then straight amine curing agent based epoxies. Even these high end epoxies can be found for in the $30's per gallon. Search the web for cycloaliphatic epoxies and you will find all sorts of pages on electrical insulators and how cycloaliphatic epoxy insulators are replacing ceramic insulators because the cyclo epoxies are durable enough for years and years of exposure on the top of telephone poles. The electrical insulator industry doesn't even consider 'regular' epoxy insulators.... More about cycloaliphatics - CLICK HERE (cycloaliphatic epoxy).

Nonyl phenol is a non solvent additive that can be used added to either Part A or Part B. It does have some useful properties, but is often more widely used to 'water down' the epoxy, making it much cheaper to manufacturer and giving the vendor much higher profits. Nonyl can also retard the drying of enamel paint over epoxy. If you want to enamel paint your epoxy project either use a primer over the epoxy or use our Premium No Blush epoxy. More about Nonyl Phenol - CLICK HERE (nonyl phenol).

FORMALDEHYDE - one of the major epoxy vendors uses formaldehyde in their curing agents! Check the MSDS of your vendor's epoxy for this chemical. (formaldehyde in competitor's curing agent - click here)

Want to know more? Visit our Chemistry of Epoxies Page - CLICK HERE (epoxy chemistry)

Some epoxies are non-hazmat to ship (again very few) - big thing here is that the non hazmat curing agents generally have a more gentle exotherm and slower more uniform curing - (doesn't get super hot, melt containers and turn hard in the blink of an eye). Note that the hazmat epoxies must be shipping by ground, not air, but generally no additional cost. Non-hazmat curing agents tend to be amber colored, hazmat curing agents can be amber or clear. More on Hazmat shipping - CLICK HERE (epoxy shipping)

Hazmat or not - the ones with a more gentle exotherm always seemed better to work with - no worry of 'bubbling up or melting' the areas you are working on.

The 'serious' marine epoxies are formulated using the raw resins manufactured by the giant chemical companies. Many (some?) low cost epoxy vendors merely repackage these raw bulk resins. Not a good thing! Learn more - CLICK HERE (epoxy prices)

Mix ratios as close to 1:1 or 2:1 are better as they tolerate slight errors in the mix ratio better. Given an error in a 5:1 mix ratio and you can suddenly be mixing it at 4:1 and not knowing it. The result might not be good. More about mix ratio errors - CLICK HERE (epoxy mix ratios)

And finally, evaluate your marine epoxy but what other users say about it.

Customer feedback and comments on Basic No Blush marine epoxy resin  - CLICK HERE.

And what about temperature? Our Basic No Blush epoxy resin comes with regular, slow (summer - 80's 90's), or fast (winter 30's and 40's) curing agents.

Wally and the Beav learn about Kayaks

A favorite 'trick' of mine is to email a question to a vendor and see if, or how long, it takes them to reply. Especially over a weekend or holiday. Actually, it is my experience that most email product questions are ignored. Email replies tell you lots about the personality of the company you are considering doing business with. The good ones reply quickly so you don't lose much time in placing your order.

And what about so-called Penetrating or Sealing epoxies? Don't be fooled (ripped off) by slick marketing and vendor BS. See our page www.epoxyproducts.com/penetrating4u.html

What You Can Tell From an Epoxy MSDS Doc.

Most telling is the MSDS for the Part B curing agent (two part epoxies will have an MSDS for both the Part A and the Part B). The curing agent (Part B) MSDS that tells the best story. Unfortunately, the MSDS usually doesn't tell as much as you wish it would.
Section two in MSDS documents list the primary ingredients in the product. Some vendors proudly list their high end chemicals. Others decide to hide as best they can legally the ingredients of their products. Good or really good products will probably list: cycloaliphatic, or cycloxxx, or aliphatic followed by amine or polyamine. They also might use the words modified amine or modified aliphatic amine, yet they could all be the same thing. Again, not very useful for figuring out what you have or for comparing against another vendor's product.

The term Adduct is a good thing to see. Adducts use a little bit of the epoxy resin in the curing agent. This improves properties and blush resistance. Our Basic No Blush marine epoxy (tm) marine epoxy is an Adduct.

In very general terms, if the Part B uses the term cycloaliphatic and amine or polyamine and or adduct, you probably have a top tier quality epoxy. Seeing "aliphatic amine' might suggest a really good, albeit, second tier epoxy (or a top tier epoxy hiding its top tier roots). Clues, at best. Most, maybe all, underwater epoxies are use cycloaliphatic curing agents.

Even the Part A resin (Bis A generally) comes in flavors. Add that to the nearly endless blends of amines, polyamines, amides, in aliphatic or cycloaliphatic form, as well as other additives and a formulator can develop a product with just about any property desired (viscosity, blush or no blush, chemical or solvent resistance, flex, pot life, etc).

Perhaps more telling from an MSDS than the chemistry of the epoxy, is the red flag addition of excessively large amounts of nonyl phenol or solvents. Another red flag (not found in the MSDS sheet) is the requirement of letting the epoxy sit for some amount of time after mixing and before using. This is often called induction time or sweat in time. Generally only very low end epoxies have induction time requirements.

Technically, MSDS documents should be dated within the last 5 years. I've seen MSDS documents from major formulators that are dated well over 10 years ago. Even our products have outdated MSDS sheet that slip by our attention (where do the years go?). Read what you want from this oversight.

Our Basic No Blush™ Marine Epoxy  Adduct has its own web page

(check it out! Best price - performance and customer satisfaction)

- CLICK HERE (marine epoxy)

Our Basic No Blush™ 12 oz marine epoxy sampler has its own web page too!  (click here)

enough marine epoxy to test with fiberglass cloth or the enclosed thickener - EZ thick)

Personal preferences:

1) Viscosity (thickness). Our Low V epoxy and our Bio Clear 810 (cycloaliphatic - low yellowing) epoxy are both extra thin and watery - often used for sealing, diluted with solvent and used as a penetrating epoxy (we also have a thin sealing epoxy - ESP 155), or mixed with our copper powder to create a copper-rich coating. Our Basic No Blush and Premium No Blush (another cycloaliphatic based epoxy) are excellent medium viscosity epoxies - my favorites for general purpose laminating, repairing etc.

2) Brittleness. Some epoxies are more brittle than others. Test my making a block or cube of your epoxy and squeezing in a vise or hitting with a hammer. Our old Basic No Blush™ was quite brittle, our new Basic No Blush™ is not, neither is our Premium No Blush™.

Health Issues

Some people develop a serious skin rash etc. after working with epoxies (skin contact) over a period of years. It has ended more than one 'epoxy career'. It seems to vary slightly from epoxy to epoxy, but there is probably no escape if you develop this sensitivity. Factors that may affect this issue include: formaldehyde in the formulation, nonyl phenol in the formulation, blushing epoxies (because you have to physically 'clean' the not fully cured epoxy). Our Premium No Blush™ epoxy is formaldehyde free, non blushing, nonyl free, and non hazmat to ship!

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marine epoxy, no blush  clear, goo, resin, fiberglass

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