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Bio Clear 810™ Industrial Grade Pourable Clear Epoxy Resin -
A favorite with commercial contractors and DIY Homeowners
bar top epoxy - table top epoxy
Your Host and Tour Guide:
Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.
Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)
"Professionals helping Professionals"
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QUICK ACCESS BLOCK/810 Go to our clear epoxy catalog page - CLEAR EPOXY RESIN. Order Bio Clear 810 (tm) epoxy at our second, simple web site - WWW.EPOXYUSA.COM. Order Bio Clear 810 (tm) sampler of Basic No Blush from our massive online 3rd party storefront - EPOXY STORE. HOMEPAGE - start the very top! - HOMEPAGE. DIY HOME HOMEPAGE - subsection of our overal homepage - HOME HOMEPAGE. MASSIVE epoxy index site - EPOXY INDEX/MAP. Data and MSDS for this and other products. Print/read the PDF product data sheet - DATA/MSDS. User feedback / comments on this and other products -- FEEDBACK. Questions? Ask PROFESSOR E.POXY. Link Swop? Do we share common interests? Could be Win-Win for everyone. Leave email with PROF E.POXY. |
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Industrial/commercial catalog - click hereBoating/marine catalog - click here
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APPLICATION NOTES AND WARNINGS (MOSTLY FOR BIO CLEAR
810 TABLETOP EPOXY, BUT APPLIES TO OTHER EPOXIES AS WELL). FOUND AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE. PLEASE READ!!
Welcome to the bar top and tabletop clear epoxy page. Here you will find all you need to know about epoxies for bar or table tops. For some reason, our competitors don't give you an 'education', they just want you to buy their products! We would rather have informed customers, people that know the pluses and minuses of the particular resin system they're buying into. Once you know the basics, we're hoping you buy from us, instead of THEM!
CLICK HERE FOR PICTURES OF CONTRACTOR PROFESSIONAL BAR TOP POURS
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The big shocker to people considering a thick poured on clear table top is the amount of epoxy necessary. Here are some numbers you need to know:
1 gallon of anything applied 1/4 inch thick will only cover slightly less than 6.5 square feet.
1 gallon of anything applied 1 inch thick will only cover 1.6 square feet.
At 1/2 inch thick that gallon of epoxy will only cover about 3.2 square feet.
There 231 cubic inches in a gallon. One square foot is equal to 144 square inches.
MURPHY'S LAW SEEMS TO LIKE POURED EPOXY TABLE\BAR TOPS. IT'S AMAZING
HOW THINGS CAN GO 'SOUTH' EVEN THE PROS SOMETIMES MESS UP BIG TIME.
this is from "James" in the 'usernotes' page
First Things First - Epoxy Resin
Epoxies do not do well in direct sunlight (direct UV exposure).
They will turn cloudy and yellow, lose their shine and perhaps even chalk. All
epoxies, especially white and clear epoxies do this. Most do it rather quickly, within a few days of constant exposure.
Some, like our very popular Bio Clear 810 do it very very slowly (weeks instead of days). I know of only three
ways to fix this: 1) keep the table out of direct sun, 2) varnish seems to prevent yellowing if applied over the
epoxy, but it is a yellow coating to start with, 3) one or two
two coats of clear 2-part Acrylic Poly UV Plus will stop or stop UV yellowing of the epoxy. (More on UV blockers).
Note: UV blockers cannot be added/blended into epoxies and nearly all non-epoxy
clear coat products have little or no UV blockers in them.
Epoxies may feel hard and 'cured' within a few hours, but they take a week or more to cure completely. If you make
the mistake of putting some paper or a heavy or sharp object on an epoxy surface that is less than several days
old, the paper will glue itself to the epoxy and the objects will 'dent' the epoxy.
Epoxies are really just a hard plastic. Mix parts A and B together and a chemical reaction occurs between the two
parts. The reaction generates heat and the epoxy gets hard. Many epoxies generate A LOT OF HEAT. So much that the
mixture might froth up, melt the container it is in, smoke, and most certainly produce an uneven surface. With
epoxies like these you are generally told not to pour out layers more than half an inch or one quarter inch (so
that less heat and distortion results due to the lesser amount of epoxy present and the amount of surface area
to 'expel the heat).
Most people would like a thick clear epoxy to apply to their table or bar top. Thick, unfortunately has trouble
with trapped tiny air bubbles. Mixing and pouring the epoxy introduces lots of bubbles to the mixture. Fortunately
most will rise to the surface and pop before the epoxy gets hard and traps them. Heating the poured epoxy with
a hair dryer will aid the bubbles rising to the surface and popping. The heat the epoxy generates as it cures (if
not too great) will also help the epoxy rise to the surface and pop.
Like most plastics, epoxies will soften with heat. Generally if you place something that is hotter than about 125
degrees F (such as a hot coffee cup) it might soften the epoxy to the point of leaving a dent, ring or depression
in the epoxy that will not go away. Keep hot things away from your epoxy surface.
Yes, it is common to build up the thickness by doing a multiple layers of epoxy pours (generally because of the
heat release on most epoxies). Our Bio Clear 810 (avail in 1.5 gal and 3 gal kits) can take pours up to 1/2 inch,
our Low V or Basic No Blush (both avail in 1.5 gal kits and 15 gal units) requires 1/4 inch pours.
You may wish to protect the epoxy surface from UV, scratches and heat. See the TOPCOAT SECTION below.
NOTE: WATERY, THIN EPOXIES SELF LEVEL EASILY AND RARELY
TRAP AIR BUBBLES IF MIXED SLOWLY
Bio Clear 810 - Pourable Table Top - Bartop Epoxy
Bio Clear 810 is a favorite with both home hobby/craft people and commercial professional applicators. This professional grade pourable epoxy table top resin can be found in homes and bars across the country.
Professional contractor poured projects include:
* 84 ft long bartable in central NJ
* 734 sf recording studio floor in Hawaii
48 oz Bio Clear 810 (tm) table top epoxy kit
Bio Clear 810 pourable epoxy is our recommended pour-on coating. Almost as watery as the Low V epoxy, it can be applied thicker - up to 3/4 inch thick in very small pours (ounces of epoxy) or 1/4 to 1/2 inch in larger pours. It resists yellowing better than any clear epoxy I've ever seen. Its only down side is that it cannot be applied as a thin coat (i.e by brush or poured very thinly). For a poured on surface greater than 1/4 inch, this is the best product we have ever used.
Yes you can encase shells, pictures, etc. in the epoxy. We have only heard of one case of the inks/colors running and that was with cheap Madri Gras decorations. No reports of problems with photographs. Note, however, these things might release air bubbles when flooded with epoxy.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCT, ONLY SOLD IN 1.5 QUART TEST UNITS, 1.5 GALLON UNITS & 3 GALLON UNITS
view this product in our catalog: Bio
Clear 810
--- ORDER NOW via link to online storefront (section 1 - epoxies)----
--- You can also purchase this product at a second, more simple site - EPOXYUSA.COM
NOTE: THIS PRODUCT HAS A TENDENCY FOR THE PART A RESIN TO 'CRYSTALIZE' IN COLD WEATHER IF STORED FOR WEEKS/MONTHS
CLICK HERE TO GOTO OUR USERNOTES SECTION: FEEDBACK FROM FOLKS WHO HAVE USED THIS AND
OUR OTHER PRODUCTS.
More pictures - comments - feedback from Bio Clear 810 ™ customers
- CLICK HERE
A block of Bio Clear 810 (tm) tabletop epoxy shown with router rounded edges, an embedded coin, and routed "X" filled in with black epoxy.
CLICK HERE FOR LIST OF 3RD PARTY CONTRACTORS AVAILABLE FOR HIRE, TO CONSULT, OR TO OVERSEE YOUR SMALL, MEDIUM, OR LARGE EPOXY POUR
(or to see more amazing poured epoxy commercial bartops!)
Mixing: even a slightly less then perfect mixing can ruin a table pour and Murphy's Law seems to always apply. First make sure parts A and B are clear (part A and/or by may have a slight yellow or amber tint, this will not be visible in your pour).
Get everything at the same temperature - epoxy and the all surfaces and keep it that way for a day or so after the pour. Avoid applying near windows etc. where sunlight will change the temperature. Temperature changes (warmer temps) may cause bubbles to form.
Next, mix a bit of A and B (2:1 mix ratio) and test on your surface. This is to give you experience with the product, test compatibility with your surface, bubbles coming out of the surface, etc. No one wants surprises with the main pour! Make sure your edges/corners don't leak! (you can seal with a bit of this test bit of epoxy - then re-test for leaks!).
Now, mix up batches no larger than 1.5 gallons at a time. Larger batches can be harder to mix well, are more likely to spill, etc. Mix in a separate, large, third container. Pouring into and out of this third container aids mixing. Using a large container will mean you can mix vigorously without concern of it spilling out over the top. Not mixing well vertically (mixing the top and bottom layers) is a disappointment waiting to happen!
Don't try to get the last few drops of epoxy out of your mixing container. The liquid sticking to the sides and corners/edges of the container never get completely mixed. Pour your mixture out of the mixing container but don't keep it draining out for more than 10 seconds or so. Poorly mixed epoxy will always stay tacky or wet, either in certain areas or all over.
Finally, the epoxy will feel dry and firm overnight but will continue hardening for a week or so. Don't place papers or objects on the epoxy for at least several days or they will stick or leave a dent.
MORE INFO: epoxies will yellow in sunlight - if this is an issue topcoat
with our 2 part Acrylic Poly Plus with UV protectors.
Knowledge is Power - We like informed consumers!
Learn the basics of epoxy at our educational EPOXY 101 page - Click Here.
Finally, email us back with your questions or comments before you buy - EMAIL HERE
IF YOUR TABLETOP IS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT IT WILL YELLOW
UNLESS PROTECTED BY A UV BLOCKER - SEE BELOW
Top-Coating & Protecting
the Epoxy
RECOMMENDATION: If the table will
receive direct sunlight, consider topcoating the epoxy ( with one or two coats of the Acrylic Poly UV plus (one
gallon kits only) - which contains max amount of UV blockers as well as the toughness and gloss of a 2 part polyurethane.
Clear Acrylic Poly UV Plus (2 part urethane) and Solar Gard - (cannot
be sold in Southern California) Catalog Page Click Here
Note that 2 part urethanes can be tricky/difficult to brush apply. They set up quickly on applied surfaces and can leave brush marks, even when special 'reducers' are used. Note, this clear thin poly will show dust droplets (looks like tiny bubbles) if used in a dusty setting, (like many basements).
EPOXIES SOFTEN WITH HEAT. HOT COFFEE CUPS ETC. WILL
LEAVE A LASTING RING IN THE EPOXY. NEVER PUT ANYTHING HOTTER THAN ABOUT 130 DEGREES F ON AN EPOXY SURFACE.
WHILE EPOXIES WILL FEEL DRY AND HARD OVERNIGHT THEY TAKE UPWARDS OF ONE WEEK TO COMPLETELY CURE. OBJECTS LEFT ON
EPOXY SURFACES LESS THEN 1 WEEK OLD MAY LEAVE A 'DENT' OR PERMANENTLY BOND TO THE EPOXY (ESPECIALLY PAPERS AND
CARDBOARD).
TRAPPED AIR BUBBLES ARE RARELY A PROBLEM WITH THIN WATERY EPOXIES. BE SURE YOU ARE NOT GETTING ESCAPED AIR (AND
BUBBLES) FROM THE TABLE/BAR SURFACE OR THE OBJECTS YOU MIGHT BE COVERING. A HEAT GUN (OR SUPER QUICK PASS WITH
A PROPANE TORCH/COOKING TORCH) WILL QUICKLY REMOVE ALL SURFACE (SURFACE ONLY) BUBBLES AND PROMOTE THE OTHER BELOW
SURFACE BUBBLES TO THE SURFACE.
TO MINIMIZE BUBBLES MIX THE 2 PART EPOXY COMPLETELY BUT SLOWLY. IN OTHER WORDS DON'T USE A MIXER ON A DRILLING TURNING AT 1200 RPMs (WE'RE NOT MAKING WHIP CREAM!).
RUNNING A FAN OVER THE POURED EPOXY SURFACE WILL HELP 'EVEN OUT' TEMPERATURE 'SPOTS' THAT CAN CAUSE STRESS CRACKS,
UNEVEN SURFACES, ETC.
THE COLORS IN CHEAP PAPER OBJECTS MAY RUN WHEN COVERED WITH THE EPOXY.
YOU CAN SAND OUT FLAWS ETC. THE CLOUDY SURFACE THAT RESULTS CAN BE MADE CLEAR AGAIN WITH A CLEAR TOPCOAT OF JUST
ABOUT ANYTHING (NOTE THAT THE 810 EPOXY CANNOT BE APPLIED THINLY - IT WILL FISHEYE) - YOU MIGHT EVEN TRY CLEAR
NAIL POLISH.
APPLICATION NOTES AND WARNINGS (MOSTLY FOR BIO CLEAR
810, BUT APPLIES TO OTHER EPOXIES AS WELL)
PLEASE READ!!
Surface to be topcoated must be clean and free of oils, grease and loose contamination. The epoxy and the surface
to be coated should be at a constant 68 degrees or warmer for 24 hours before and after the pour.
Mix Bio-Clear 810 epoxy base with the Bio-Clear 810 curing agent. Make sure that both parts A and B are clear prior
to mixing - if not, do not proceed and contact supplier). Mixture will also be clear after mixing. Use a mechanical
mixer if possible to ensure thorough mixing. The mixing ratio is 2/1 (base/curing agent) by volume or 1/0.43 by
weight. Bubbles resulting from the mixing will rise to the surface and most or all will pop. Heat from a torch
or hair drier (set on low) will usually pop most remaining bubbles. It is never possible to completely mix all
of the epoxy in your mixing container. The epoxy at the corner of the bottom and sides, and on the bottom will
probably not be mixed well enough. Therefore, after mixing do not try to get every last drop out of the mixing
container (don’t overturn the mixing container and drain it for a long period of time). Bio-Clear 810 does not
require a ‘sweat-in’ or induction time and the mixed components should be used immediately.
TEST the epoxy on your surface. Some surfaces will release a lot of air bubbles. Cheap inks may bleed. Unknown
or unsuspected contaminants on the surface may discolor the epoxy. Sudden changes in temperature or humidity may
affect the epoxy. Make sure your raised edges or sills are leak proof and level. Once poured, it is almost impossible
to stop an epoxy leak in a corner. Bio-Clear 810 cannot be brushed on. It must be poured at sufficient depth to
prevent surface tension related fisheyes.
The epoxy will feel dry and hard overnight, but it takes a week for it to fully
cure and harden. Do not place objects on the epoxy before then as they will stick or leave a dent or impression
in the still hardening epoxy.
Unless top-coated with a UV absorber, this epoxy will yellow and eventually turn cloudy with exposure to sunlight.
This epoxy will generate a considerable amount of heat when it hardens. Thin plastic containers will melt.
As noted before, test the epoxy on your surface. What happens after
the clear epoxy is poured upon the surface is the sole responsibility of the purchaser. Supplier liability is limited
to 1 three gallon unit maximum for Bio-Clear 810, and 1.5 gal units of our other clear epoxies. See Warranty statement.
Temperature will exert a considerable influence on the rate of curing of chemically cured coatings such as Bio-Clear
810 epoxy. In broad terms expect each 10°C, (18°F), rise or fall in temperature to half or double dry times
and pot lives.
WE HAVE HAD REPORTS OF STRESS CRACKS IN LARGE POURS (LARGE TABLES WITH PERHAPS 15 GALLONS POURED OUT ALL AT ONCE). SOLUTION SEEMS TO BE TO LIMIT POURS OF ANY SIZE TO A FEW GALLONS AT A TIME.
The epoxy and the surface to be coated should be at a constant 68 degrees or
warmer for 24 hours before and after the pour.
We now have unfinished wood slabs available from
a local sawmill - CLICK
HERE
1) The epoxy leaks out from the corners FIX seal the edges and corners (using some of the epoxy, varnish, etc.).
Test (maybe with water) before your big pour.
2) Bubbles in the epoxy - either from mixing too vigorously (you're not making whip cream!) or from the wood/objects you are covering with the epoxy. Sealing the surface prior to the pour will take care of the bubbles from objects in the epoxy. To remove bubbles quickly pass a torch/heat gun over the surface of the epoxy once the bubbles have reached the surface of the epoxy.
3) Stress cracks. On large pours (say over 3 or 4 gallons, or maybe greater than 15 or 16 square feet) - stress
cracks can form from all the different temperatures generated. The bigger the pour the thinner each layer of epoxy
has to be to 'handle' all the heat. I wish I could be more exact here, but I have no 'real' numbers to offer. I
have found that running a fan across the poured epoxy helps to dissipate and even-out the heat generated permitting
thicker and larger pours.
4) Ridges and an uneven surface. Just like the stress cracks, this is a result of too much epoxy (too thick) applied
at one time. The unevenness is from the heat generated (unevenly) in the pour.
---- page keywords: poured epoxy bartop table top bio clear 180 directions information
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We are also very involved with Epoxy/Coatings in the following areas: -- -Marine/Boat Repair/Building- -- -Pour On Bartop Epoxy- -- -Epoxy Floor Paints (massive info/options)- -- -Home/Commercial Epoxy Paints/Putties- -- -Pebble Deck Recoat Epoxy- -- -Epoxy Education- -- -Underwater Epoxy Painting/Repair- -- -EpoxyProducts Home Page- -- -EpoxyUSA Home Page- -- -Ask Professor E.Poxy- -- |
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????? Unlike our competitors we welcome communications from our visitors and customers. Questions? Ideas? Comments? Ready to Order? We're best reached by email (info@epoxyproducts.com) which is checked ALMOST 365 days a year. You can call us during our Office/Desk hours which are Mon-Thur 10:30-3 Eastern time - 603-435-7199. Ready to Order? We have two web sites/stores - Use our 'simple site' www.epoxyusa.com to immediately order the 48 oz, 1.5 gal or 3 gal units of Bio Clear 810.
For many folks a single coat of our solvent free, odorless, commercial grade, INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY - which gives a smooth, tile like look is all they are after. Like the Bio Clear 810, you can 'try' our solvent free, odorless, commercial grade floor epoxy at www.epoxyusa.com (48 oz test units or full 1.5 gal. units). Begin to learn all about epoxy floors at: www.epoxyproducts.com/floorcoatings.html .
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Floor links:
index of floor epoxy web sites garage paint etc. +++++++++++++ www.concrete-garage-epoxy-floor-paint.com
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| The floor paint page in our online catalog | EPOXY PAINT | www.epoxyproducts.com/b_floor.html | epoxy paint |
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| More about epoxy floors - sort of intro part 2 | EPOXY RESIN | www.epoxyproducts.com/floorcoatings.html | epoxy resin |
| More about epoxy floors - sort of intro part 3 | EPOXY REPAIR | www.epoxyproducts.com/floorcoatings4u.html | epoxy repair |
| Most common epoxy floor coating systems | EPOXY FLOOR | www.epoxyproducts.com/floorpopular.html | floor epoxy |
| Read this before painting your garage | GARAGE PAINT | www.epoxyproducts.com/garage4u.html | garage paint |
| Epoxy floors with colored chips (includes color chart) | CHIP FLOOR | www.epoxyproducts.com/chips4u.html | professional grade epoxy |
| Epoxy floors with broadcast sand (high end) | QUARTZ FLOOR | www.epoxyproducts.com/quartz4u.html | commercial grade epoxy |
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| Epoxy coating issues/basics for homeowners | LEAK REPAIR CRACK REPAIR | www.epoxyproducts.com/home4u.html | leak repair crack repair concrete repair |
| How to have a successful epoxy coating project/issues | CONCRETE REPAIR | www.epoxyproducts.com/scoat4u.html | concrete repair |
| Moisture and vapor barrier issues with epoxy coatings | WATERPROOF EPOXY | www.epoxyproducts.com/vapor4u.html | waterproof epoxy |
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| These and other floor epoxy links (with comments!) | EPOXY | www.epoxyproducts.com/epoxy-floor-paint.html | epoxy urethane fiberglass resin |
---
When, in the course of human events, it becomes necessary for
one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to assume among the powers
of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the laws of nature and of nature's God entitle them, a decent
respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator
with certain unalienable rights, that among these are life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. That to secure
these rights, governments are instituted among men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed.
That whenever any form of government becomes destructive to these ends, it is the right of the people to alter
or to abolish it, and to institute new government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its
powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness. Prudence, indeed,
will dictate that governments long established should not be changed for light and transient causes; and accordingly
all experience hath shown that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right themselves
by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing
invariably the same object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is their right, it is their
duty, to throw off such government, and to provide new guards for their future security. --Such has been the patient
sufferance of these colonies; and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their former systems
of government. The history of the present King of Great Britain is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations,
all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute tyranny over these states. To prove this, let facts
be submitted to a candid world.
He has refused his assent to laws, the most wholesome and necessary for the public good.
He has forbidden his governors to pass laws of immediate and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operation
till his assent should be obtained; and when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them.
He has refused to pass other laws for the accommodation of large districts of people, unless those people would
relinquish the right of representation in the legislature, a right inestimable to them and formidable to tyrants
only.
He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and distant from the depository of
their public records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance with his measures.
He has dissolved representative houses repeatedly, for opposing with manly firmness his invasions on the rights
of the people.
He has refused for a long time, after such dissolutions, to cause others to be elected; whereby the legislative
powers, incapable of annihilation, have returned to the people at large for their exercise; the state remaining
in the meantime exposed to all the dangers of invasion from without, and convulsions within.
He has endeavored to prevent the population of these states; for that purpose obstructing the laws for naturalization
of foreigners; refusing to pass others to encourage their migration hither, and raising the conditions of new appropriations
of lands.
He has obstructed the administration of justice, by refusing his assent to laws for establishing judiciary powers.
He has made judges dependent on his will alone, for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of
their salaries.
He has erected a multitude of new offices, and sent hither swarms of officers to harass our people, and eat out
their substance.
He has kept among us, in times of peace, standing armies without the consent of our legislature.
He has affected to render the military independent of and superior to civil power.
He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitution, and unacknowledged by
our laws; giving his assent to their acts of pretended legislation:
For quartering large bodies of armed troops among us:
For protecting them, by mock trial, from punishment for any murders which they should commit on the inhabitants
of these states:
For cutting off our trade with all parts of the world:
For imposing taxes on us without our consent:
For depriving us in many cases, of the benefits of trial by jury:
For transporting us beyond seas to be tried for pretended offenses:
For abolishing the free system of English laws in a neighboring province, establishing therein an arbitrary government,
and enlarging its boundaries so as to render it at once an example and fit instrument for introducing the same
absolute rule in these colonies:
For taking away our charters, abolishing our most valuable laws, and altering fundamentally the forms of our governments:
For suspending our own legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with power to legislate for us in all cases
whatsoever.
He has abdicated government here, by declaring us out of his protection and waging war against us.
He has plundered our seas, ravaged our coasts, burned our towns, and destroyed the lives of our people.
He is at this time transporting large armies of foreign mercenaries to complete the works of death, desolation
and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of cruelty and perfidy scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous
ages, and totally unworthy the head of a civilized nation.
He has constrained our fellow citizens taken captive on the high seas to bear arms against their country, to become
the executioners of their friends and brethren, or to fall themselves by their hands.
He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us, and has endeavored to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers,
the merciless Indian savages, whose known rule of warfare, is undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes and
conditions.
In every stage of these oppressions we have petitioned for redress in the most humble terms: our repeated petitions
have been answered only by repeated injury. A prince, whose character is thus marked by every act which may define
a tyrant, is unfit to be the ruler of a free people.
Nor have we been wanting in attention to our British brethren. We have warned them from time to time of attempts
by their legislature to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances
of our emigration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured
them by the ties of our common kindred to disavow these usurpations, which, would inevitably interrupt our connections
and correspondence. They too have been deaf to the voice of justice and of consanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce
in the necessity, which denounces our separation, and hold them, as we hold the rest of mankind, enemies in war,
in peace friends.
We, therefore, the representatives of the United States of America, in General Congress, assembled, appealing to
the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the name, and by the authority of the
good people of these colonies, solemnly publish and declare, that these united colonies are, and of right ought
to be free and independent states; that they are absolved from all allegiance to the British Crown, and that all
political connection between them and the state of Great Britain, is and ought to be totally dissolved; and that
as free and independent states, they have full power to levy war, conclude peace, contract alliances, establish
commerce, and to do all other acts and things which independent states may of right do. And for the support of
this declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of Divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other
our lives, our fortunes and our sacred honor.
New Hampshire: Josiah Bartlett, William Whipple, Matthew Thornton
Massachusetts: John Hancock, Samual Adams, John Adams, Robert Treat Paine, Elbridge Gerry
Rhode Island: Stephen Hopkins, William Ellery
Connecticut: Roger Sherman, Samuel Huntington, William Williams, Oliver Wolcott
New York: William Floyd, Philip Livingston, Francis Lewis, Lewis Morris
New Jersey: Richard Stockton, John Witherspoon, Francis Hopkinson, John Hart, Abraham Clark
Pennsylvania: Robert Morris, Benjamin Rush, Benjamin Franklin, John Morton, George Clymer, James Smith, George
Taylor, James Wilson, George Ross
Delaware: Caesar Rodney, George Read, Thomas McKean
Maryland: Samuel Chase, William Paca, Thomas Stone, Charles Carroll of Carrollton
Virginia: George Wythe, Richard Henry Lee, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Harrison, Thomas Nelson, Jr., Francis Lightfoot
Lee, Carter Braxton
North Carolina: William Hooper, Joseph Hewes, John Penn
South Carolina: Edward Rutledge, Thomas Heyward, Jr., Thomas Lynch, Jr., Arthur Middleton
Georgia: Button Gwinnett, Lyman Hall, George Walton
Source: The Pennsylvania Packet, July 8, 1776