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APPLICATION NOTES AND WARNINGS (MOSTLY FOR BIO CLEAR 810, BUT APPLIES TO OTHER EPOXIES AS WELL). FOUND AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE. PLEASE READ!!

CLICK HERE FOR LIST OF 3RD PARTY CONTRACTORS AVAILABLE FOR HIRE, TO CONSULT, OR TO OVERSEE YOUR SMALL, MEDIUM, OR LARGE EPOXY POUR

First Things First - The Basic Math

The big shocker to people considering a thick poured on clear table top is the amount of epoxy necessary. Here are some numbers you need to know:

1 gallon of anything applied 1/4 inch thick will only cover slightly less than 6.5 square feet.

1 gallon of anything applied 1 inch thick will only cover 1.6 square feet.

At 1/2 inch thick that gallon of epoxy will only cover about 3.2 square feet.

There 231 cubic inches in a gallon. One square foot is equal to 144 square inches.

MURPHY'S LAW SEEMS TO LIKE POURED EPOXY TABLE\BAR TOPS. IT'S AMAZING HOW THINGS CAN GO 'SOUTH' EVEN THE PROS SOMETIMES MESS UP BIG TIME.

this is from "James" in the 'usernotes' page

First Things First - The Epoxies

Epoxies do not do well in direct sunlight (direct UV exposure). They will turn cloudy and yellow, lose their shine and perhaps even chalk. All epoxies, especially white and clear epoxies do this. Most do it rather quickly, within a few days of constant exposure. Some, like our Bio Clear 810 (sold only in commercial 15 gallon units) do it very very slowly (weeks instead of days). I know of only three ways to fix this: 1) keep the table out of direct sun, 2) varnish seems to prevent yellowing if applied over the epoxy, but it is a yellow coating to start with, 3) one or two two coats of clear 2-part Acrylic Poly UV Plus will stop or stop UV yellowing of the epoxy. (More on UV blockers)

Epoxies may feel hard and 'cured' within a few hours, but they take a week or more to cure completely. If you make the mistake of putting some paper or a heavy or sharp object on an epoxy surface that is less than several days old, the paper will glue itself to the epoxy and the objects will 'dent' the epoxy.

Epoxies are really just a hard plastic. Mix parts A and B together and a chemical reaction occurs between the two parts. The reaction generates heat and the epoxy gets hard. Many epoxies generate A LOT OF HEAT. So much that the mixture might froth up, melt the container it is in, smoke, and most certainly produce an uneven surface. With epoxies like these you are generally told not to pour out layers more than half an inch or one quarter inch (so that less heat and distortion results due to the lesser amount of epoxy present and the amount of surface area to 'expel the heat).

Most people would like a thick clear epoxy to apply to their table or bar top. Thick, unfortunately has trouble with trapped tiny air bubbles. Mixing and pouring the epoxy introduces lots of bubbles to the mixture. Fortunately most will rise to the surface and pop before the epoxy gets hard and traps them. Heating the poured epoxy with a hair dryer will aid the bubbles rising to the surface and popping. The heat the epoxy generates as it cures (if not too great) will also help the epoxy rise to the surface and pop.

Like most plastics, epoxies will soften with heat. Generally if you place something that is hotter than about 125 degrees F (such as a hot coffee cup) it might soften the epoxy to the point of leaving a dent, ring or depression in the epoxy that will not go away. Keep hot things away from your epoxy surface.

Most epoxies blush - that means they form a visible or invisible waxy finish on their surface as the cure (harden). Carefully wash the epoxy surface with soap and water before adding another layer of epoxy or some other product.

Yes, it is common to build up the thickness by doing a multiple layers of epoxy pours (generally because of the heat release on most epoxies). Our Bio Clear 810 (avail in 1.5 gal and 3 gal kits) can take pours up to 1/2 inch, our Low V or Basic No Blush (both avail in 1.5 gal kits and 15 gal units) requires 1/4 inch pours.

You may wish to protect the epoxy surface from UV, scratches and heat. See the TOPCOAT SECTION below.

Clear Table/Bar Top Epoxies From Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.

NOTE: WATERY, THIN EPOXIES SELF LEVEL EASILY AND RARELY TRAP AIR BUBBLES IF MIXED SLOWLY

Bio Clear 810 - Pourable Table Top Epoxy

Bio Clear 810 is our recommended pour-on coating. Almost as watery as the Low V epoxy, it can be applied thicker - up to 3/4 inch thick in very small pours (ounces of epoxy) or 1/4 to 1/2 inch in larger pours. It resists yellowing better than any clear epoxy I've ever seen. Its only down side is that it cannot be applied as a thin coat (i.e by brush or poured very thinly). For a poured on surface greater than 1/4 inch, this is the best product we have ever used.

Yes you can encase shells, pictures, etc. in the epoxy. We have only heard of one case of the inks/colors running and that was with cheap Madri Gras decorations. No reports of problems with photographs. Note, however, these things might release air bubbles when flooded with epoxy.

COMMERCIAL PRODUCT, ONLY SOLD IN 1.5 QUART TEST UNITS, 1.5 GALLON UNITS & 3 GALLON UNITS

view this product in our catalog: Bio Clear 810

--- ORDER NOW via link to online storefront (section 1 - epoxies)----

NOTE: THIS PRODUCT HAS A TENDENCY FOR THE PART A RESIN TO 'CRYSTALIZE'

CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS

CLICK HERE FOR LIST OF 3RD PARTY CONTRACTORS AVAILABLE FOR HIRE, TO CONSULT, OR TO OVERSEE YOUR SMALL, MEDIUM, OR LARGE EPOXY POUR

(or to see more amazing poured epoxy commercial bartops!)

Got a project in mind? Want to check with the Pros? JMEC (they did the pour
in the picture below) will respond to your emails. Their email address is:
jjgmartin@hotmail.com. More info/pics on the 3rd party contractor list - link above.

*****

As a professional woodworker, I was recently contracted to make a 14 foot curling table for a customer. After doing some research, I came across your Bio-Clear 810 epoxy product and chose it for the price and the eccentric web site. I figured that such a "different" web site MUST be offset by a truly quality product.

I was right!

This was the first time I had ever attempted an epoxy pour, so after some practice and reading the provided literature, I figured out the technique for pouring a 14 foot x 22" top.

My customer was delighted with the product and I hope to sell many more of these curling tables in the United States.

Thanks guys !

John P Rose (10/06)
330-416-8207
http://customfurniturecreations.com

Important User Notes:

Mixing: even a slightly less then perfect mixing can ruin a table pour and Murphy's Law seems to always apply. First make sure parts A and B are clear (part A and/or by may have a slight yellow or amber tint, this will not be visible in your pour).

Get everything at the same temperature - epoxy and the all surfaces and keep it that way for a day or so after the pour. Avoid applying near windows etc. where sunlight will change the temperature. Temperature changes (warmer temps) may cause bubbles to form.

Next, mix a bit of A and B (2:1 mix ratio) and test on your surface. This is to give you experience with the product, test compatibility with your surface, bubbles coming out of the surface, etc. No one wants surprises with the main pour! Make sure your edges/corners don't leak! (you can seal with a bit of this test bit of epoxy - then re-test for leaks!).

Now, mix up batches no larger than 1.5 gallons at a time. Larger batches can be harder to mix well, are more likely to spill, etc. Mix in a separate, large, third container. Pouring into and out of this third container aids mixing. Using a large container will mean you can mix vigorously without concern of it spilling out over the top. Not mixing well vertically (mixing the top and bottom layers) is a disappointment waiting to happen!

Don't try to get the last few drops of epoxy out of your mixing container. The liquid sticking to the sides and corners/edges of the container never get completely mixed. Pour your mixture out of the mixing container but don't keep it draining out for more than 10 seconds or so. Poorly mixed epoxy will always stay tacky or wet, either in certain areas or all over.

Finally, the epoxy will feel dry and firm overnight but will continue hardening for a week or so. Don't place papers or objects on the epoxy for at least several days or they will stick or leave a dent.

MORE INFO: epoxies will yellow in sunlight - if this is an issue topcoat with our 2 part Acrylic Poly Plus with UV protectors.

Knowledge is Power - We like informed consumers!

Learn the basics of epoxy at our educational EPOXY 101 page - Click Here.

Finally, email us back with your questions or comments before you buy - EMAIL HERE

VISIT OUR CATALOGS - - ORDER ONLINE NOW

Basic No Blush - Thick Brush-on Epoxy

Basic No Blush 2 is one of our most popular epoxies. It is our thickest clear epoxy (although I would still call it medium thick). One or two coats brushed on will give a nice, semi thick coating look to any object. Like the Low V epoxy above it will yellow easily and if applied much thicker than 3/16 inch, it will generate enough heat to give an uneven surface. Use mostly as a thick brush on coating. ONLY SOLD IN 1.5 GALLON UNITS AND 15 GALLON PRODUCTION KITS.

VISIT OUR CATALOGS - - ORDER ONLINE NOW

Thin, Sealing, Penetrating Epoxy

Our Low V Epoxy is a thin watery epoxy. It is often used as a penetrating or sealing epoxy. I used it, applied by brush, on a bathroom counter, brushing on about 5 or six coats. Low V has a good heat release (exotherm) so if pour applied keep the layers about 3/16 inch thick at most. Low V also yellows rather quickly. Use mostly as a sealer. ONLY SOLD IN 1.5 QUART TEST UNITS, 3 GALLON UNITS AND 15 GALLON PRODUCTION KITS.

VISIT OUR CATALOGS - - ORDER ONLINE NOW

IF YOUR TABLETOP IS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT IT WILL YELLOW UNLESS PROTECTED BY A UV BLOCKER - SEE BELOW

Top-Coating & Protecting the Epoxy

RECOMMENDATION: If the table will receive direct sunlight, consider topcoating the epoxy ( with one or two coats of the Acrylic Poly UV plus (one gallon kits only) - which contains max amount of UV blockers as well as the toughness and gloss of a 2 part polyurethane. For less toughness, try a coat of our Solar Gard acrylic UV blocker (quart kits only)

Clear Acrylic Poly UV Plus (2 part urethane) and Solar Gard - (cannot be sold in Southern California) Catalog Page Click Here

Note that 2 part urethanes can be tricky/difficult to brush apply. They set up quickly on applied surfaces and can leave brush marks, even when special 'reducers' are used. If using a brush, have our 'slow' SU 93 reducer (see below) on hand, use a quality brush, and test your application first, in case you're not happy with the brushed on result (such as on boat hulls, poured on epoxy table tops, etc.).

EPOXIES SOFTEN WITH HEAT. HOT COFFEE CUPS ETC. WILL LEAVE A LASTING RING IN THE EPOXY. NEVER PUT ANYTHING HOTTER THAN ABOUT 130 DEGREES F ON AN EPOXY SURFACE.

WHILE EPOXIES WILL FEEL DRY AND HARD OVERNIGHT THEY TAKE UPWARDS OF ONE WEEK TO COMPLETELY CURE. OBJECTS LEFT ON EPOXY SURFACES LESS THEN 1 WEEK OLD MAY LEAVE A 'DENT' OR PERMANENTLY BOND TO THE EPOXY (ESPECIALLY PAPERS AND CARDBOARD).

TRAPPED AIR BUBBLES ARE RARELY A PROBLEM WITH THIN WATERY EPOXIES. BE SURE YOU ARE NOT GETTING ESCAPED AIR (AND BUBBLES) FROM THE TABLE/BAR SURFACE OR THE OBJECTS YOU MIGHT BE COVERING. A HEAT GUN (OR SUPER QUICK PASS WITH A PROPANE TORCH/COOKING TORCH) WILL QUICKLY REMOVE ALL SURFACE (SURFACE ONLY) BUBBLES AND PROMOTE THE OTHER BELOW SURFACE BUBBLES TO THE SURFACE.

TO MINIMIZE BUBBLES MIX THE 2 PART EPOXY COMPLETELY BUT SLOWLY. IN OTHER WORDS DON'T USE A MIXER ON A DRILLING TURNING AT 1200 RPMs (WE'RE NOT MAKING WHIP CREAM!).

RUNNING A FAN OVER THE POURED EPOXY SURFACE WILL HELP 'EVEN OUT' TEMPERATURE 'SPOTS' THAT CAN CAUSE STRESS CRACKS, UNEVEN SURFACES, ETC.

THE COLORS IN CHEAP PAPER OBJECTS MAY RUN WHEN COVERED WITH THE EPOXY.

YOU CAN SAND OUT FLAWS ETC. THE CLOUDY SURFACE THAT RESULTS CAN BE MADE CLEAR AGAIN WITH A CLEAR TOPCOAT OF JUST ABOUT ANYTHING (NOTE THAT THE 810 EPOXY CANNOT BE APPLIED THINLY - IT WILL FISHEYE) - YOU MIGHT EVEN TRY CLEAR NAIL POLISH.

APPLICATION NOTES AND WARNINGS (MOSTLY FOR BIO CLEAR 810, BUT APPLIES TO OTHER EPOXIES AS WELL)

PLEASE READ!!

Surface to be topcoated must be clean and free of oils, grease and loose contamination. The epoxy and the surface to be coated should be at a constant 68 degrees or warmer for 24 hours before and after the pour.

Mix Bio-Clear 810 epoxy base with the Bio-Clear 810 curing agent. Make sure that both parts A and B are clear prior to mixing - if not, do not proceed and contact supplier). Mixture will also be clear after mixing. Use a mechanical mixer if possible to ensure thorough mixing. The mixing ratio is 2/1 (base/curing agent) by volume or 1/0.43 by weight. Bubbles resulting from the mixing will rise to the surface and most or all will pop. Heat from a torch or hair drier (set on low) will usually pop most remaining bubbles. It is never possible to completely mix all of the epoxy in your mixing container. The epoxy at the corner of the bottom and sides, and on the bottom will probably not be mixed well enough. Therefore, after mixing do not try to get every last drop out of the mixing container (don’t overturn the mixing container and drain it for a long period of time). Bio-Clear 810 does not require a ‘sweat-in’ or induction time and the mixed components should be used immediately.

TEST the epoxy on your surface. Some surfaces will release a lot of air bubbles. Cheap inks may bleed. Unknown or unsuspected contaminants on the surface may discolor the epoxy. Sudden changes in temperature or humidity may affect the epoxy. Make sure your raised edges or sills are leak proof and level. Once poured, it is almost impossible to stop an epoxy leak in a corner. Bio-Clear 810 cannot be brushed on. It must be poured at sufficient depth to prevent surface tension related fisheyes.

The epoxy will feel dry and hard overnight, but it takes a week for it to fully cure and harden. Do not place objects on the epoxy before then as they will stick or leave a dent or impression in the still hardening epoxy.

Unless top-coated with a UV absorber, this epoxy will yellow and eventually turn cloudy with exposure to sunlight. This epoxy will generate a considerable amount of heat when it hardens. Thin plastic containers will melt.

As noted before, test the epoxy on your surface. What happens after the clear epoxy is poured upon the surface is the sole responsibility of the purchaser. Supplier liability is limited to 1 three gallon unit maximum for Bio-Clear 810, and 1.5 gal units of our other clear epoxies. See Warranty statement.

Temperature will exert a considerable influence on the rate of curing of chemically cured coatings such as Bio-Clear 810 epoxy. In broad terms expect each 10°C, (18°F), rise or fall in temperature to half or double dry times and pot lives.

WE HAVE HAD REPORTS OF STRESS CRACKS IN LARGE POURS (LARGE TABLES WITH PERHAPS 15 GALLONS POURED OUT ALL AT ONCE). SOLUTION SEEMS TO BE TO LIMIT POURS OF ANY SIZE TO A FEW GALLONS AT A TIME.

1) The epoxy leaks out from the corners FIX seal the edges and corners (using some of the epoxy, varnish, etc.). Test (maybe with water) before your big pour.

2) Bubbles in the epoxy - either from mixing too vigorously (you're not making whip cream!) or from the wood/objects you are covering with the epoxy. Sealing the surface prior to the pour will take care of the bubbles from objects in the epoxy. To remove bubbles quickly pass a torch/heat gun over the surface of the epoxy once the bubbles have reached the surface of the epoxy.

3) Stress cracks. On large pours (say over 3 or 4 gallons, or maybe greater than 15 or 16 square feet) - stress cracks can form from all the different temperatures generated. The bigger the pour the thinner each layer of epoxy has to be to 'handle' all the heat. I wish I could be more exact here, but I have no 'real' numbers to offer. I have found that running a fan across the poured epoxy helps to dissipate and even-out the heat generated permitting thicker and larger pours.

4) Ridges and an uneven surface. Just like the stress cracks, this is a result of too much epoxy (too thick) applied at one time. The unevenness is from the heat generated (unevenly) in the pour.

---- page keywords: poured epoxy bartop table top bio clear 180 directions information

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