QUESTIONS? - NEED INFO? - WANT TO TALK? - NEED TO MAKE AN ORDER??

Call 603-435-7199 ANYTIME (including Sundays, nights and holidays). No two bar / table tops are the same. A mistake could be costly. Issues like sealing the surface, how thick to pour, how much epoxy is needed, and dealing with  bubbles are critical items. A quick call gets you information and answers. After calling, a lot of people change their minds about doing a thick (1/4 inch plus poured epoxy surface. They go for a brushed on spar varnish surface over an epoxy sealer and a brushed on clear epoxy layer. Or a thin 1/8 inch or so poured out epoxy. This might be better for you too. Got a few minutes? Let's talk now. WE WELCOME YOUR CALL! Or EMAIL us Instead.

EPOXY GURU - "how to" epoxy/coating help.

 

You're talking with:  Paul Oman, MS, MBA -- Member since 1994: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)  --  Technical Help - not sales talk!

 

Marine 1 Page Product/Price list --- for Marine Catalog

DIY 1 Page Product/Price list --- for DIY/Commercial Catalog

Help EMAIL US // Boat Links // Floor Links // DIY Repair Links // BUY online // SITE MAP INDEX


"You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You." Brian S.

"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe


Pourable Two Part Clear Epoxy Resin

(Basic Table Top Bar Top information, which type of clear epoxy to use, ask us questions, see examples, and ordering info)

 

read about an 1156 square foot  Bio Clear 810 epoxy pour below


Bio Clear 810™ Industrial Grade Pourable Clear Best "Bar Top" Epoxy Two Part Resin System -

    A favorite, top selling product with commercial contractors and DIY Homeowners for Pour On Epoxy Table and Bar Tops 

*** The only cyclo-aliphatic Table Top anti bubble epoxy available *** (super important for your special project)

 

table top bar top epoxy

Actual Bio Clear 810 projects and examples shown above. Note the

mix of DIY homeowner projects and Professional bars.

(also see CHEAPER alternative section below)


(This is the good stuff - OK, it costs a little bit more - but keep reading and you'll see why it is the best resin (and only one specifically formulated for pour on bar and table tops with the least amount of epoxy yellowing, anti bubble properties and more. The only cyclo-aliphatic bar top - table top epoxy - used by the PROs - not just first time home-owners). You don't find this level of professional quality epoxy at craft stores, hardware stores, or on flashy web sites.


Order this product by calling 603-435-7199 anytime or order online using this link: EPOXY NOW

Best Bar Top - Table Top Epoxy Resin - Pourable - links - help
Best two part Clear DIY Epoxy Resin for your Bar Top Table Top - BIO CLEAR 810 epoxy
 


PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC.

Nothing but Quality Products at Good Prices, Great Customer Service, and Lots and Lots of Helpful Information

No Sales Tax applied. Save Money, you're shopping in Tax Free New Hampshire


Your Host and Tour Guide:

Paul Oman, MS, MBA Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. - Pittsfield, NH - Selling epoxies since 1994

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

 

Buy From Coating Professionals - not marketing pros

"Professionals helping Professionals and Home owners since 1994" 

 


Date: Mon, 15 July 15:28:52 +0100
From: "Lee" <xx@xxxxxx>
 

Hi Paul

Just to let you know that the epoxy paint arrived today. It was a pleasure doing business with a company that is prepared go the extra yard to sell their product, even for such a small order. Thanks again for all you help and patience --- Lee

 

"Paul, you have outstanding products. Every product has out performed the highly advertised units I purchased elsewhere for past projects. Thank you."  (Dick - email 11/10/13)

 

"OK...thanks for the personal touch. And for such an informative website. The navigation took me a while to grasp, but I really appreciate all the credible, helpful information you provide. This is my 3rd or 4th order over the years and I give you a A or A+ grade on all of it.

I'm a nit-picking former Polaris nuclear missile targeting and firing guy so you don't get a good grade from me unless you are on target!" -- Dave   7/14

 

Comments: Returning customer (9/14)

Paul - You Rock.!! I know your going through some rough times; but your products, your site, has a Big impact on many of us 'little guys' out there. Keep the faith, you are providing a very valuable, service & advice. Your products allow our family to enjoy times in parts of the house that they normally wouldn't - and provide Great bonding time, when the kids decide to hang out with dad, in 'his' area.!!! It is thanks to YOU, and Your products, your support, that we are able to do this. Thank YOU, Very Much.

We'll send those photos, of our old place, and when this is done, the new one. You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You.

Brian S.

 


pour on bar top epoxy

DIY  "Bar Top" customer example

(more pictures - examples - info below)

 

table top epoxy bio clear 810

 

Actual Bio Clear 810 customer projects and examples link page  --- www.epoxyproducts.com/bartop2.html .

 


PAGE AND SITE NAVIGATION

DIY/INDUST

NAVIGATION

BAR

Main Home Page ====>

*

Res/Ind Home Page ====>

*

Res/Ind Catalog Contents Page ====>

*

Res/Ind Online Catalog Page ====>

(epoxy paints page)

Contact Page /Link to Storefront/Ordering

*

This is an Information Page

(green background)

HELP Page

Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.

..

..

..

..

..

.YOU ARE HERE.

MSDS /DATA

FYI: catalog pages are blue (marine) or yellow (home/indust), info pages are green, product pages are purple, core pages are gray

 No Sales Tax applied. Save Money, you're shopping in Tax Free New Hampshire

 

NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings, etc. are required reading before using website, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms.

CLICK HERE (www.epoxyproducts.com/legal.html) to access these terms.


MEMBER:  Internet Epoxy Confederation (IEC - CLICK HERE TO VISIT) -- "Where Professionalism Still Matters"


We've been selling epoxy - marine epoxy (boat building - wood / fiberglass repair) industrial coatings - garage paint -

underwater epoxies - thick putties - tabletop resins and supplies since the early 1990's - Over 20 years of experience

 
GOOGLE LOGO

CLICK HERE TO GOOGLE SEARCH OUR ENTIRE WEB SITE FOR KEY TERMS/WORDS


 

Pour- On Epoxy Options

There are several 'game plans' to follow if you want a 'pour-on' epoxy table or bar top. Most vendors and web sites only offer 'their' plan. Here are all the options:

1) A clear epoxy layer from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch or more. Generally has toys, 'stuff' etc. buried in it. This approach requires you construct a 'tray' with leak-proof edging all around. Also it must be very level. Note that 1 gallon of epoxy only covers 6 square feet at 1/4 inch thick. This is the method this site primarily focuses upon (using special Bio Clear 810 epoxy). Commercial bars like this eye catching method ("All the money is make within 10 feet of the bar, so don't go cheap," I've been told by bar owners). Bio Clear 810's  anti bubble formulation makes bubbles the exception rather than the norm and is thus well suited for 1/4 to 1/2 bubble free pours.

2) Other web sites promote pouring epoxy on a flat surface and letting it flow over the side (you can do this with the Bio Clear 810 epoxy as well, but we don't recommend this sort of epoxy application. With this method the epoxy is poured on leaving a 'film' of between 1/16 and 1/8 inch. Excess epoxy runs over the side in a thinner layer. Note that a single penny is about 1/8 inch thick. With surface tension and such, even with one, sometimes two, layers of epoxy, a penny will generally still be 'sticking up' from the epoxy and a lot of your money will have drained over the side and onto the floor. The result is a semi 'sort of thick' (almost a penny thick) layer of epoxy (often with lots of bubbles). This is NOT what most professionals do. It is more suited for homemade clocks and girl scout craft projects.

3) The  non poured-on method. The above methods are expensive (up to about $25 per square foot for a 1/2 thick block of epoxy). A cheaper and often better option for many wood surfaces (more on this below), is to simply seal the surface with a thin epoxy (maybe a few paper thin coats), and then a few coats of old fashion Marine Spar Varnish. This give a furniture or "Yacht" look. It is not very thick but durable (look at those boats with the fancy trim sitting all summer in direct sun in boatyards around the world). Varnish is easy to maintain and can be buffed and polished to a mirror like gloss. Often the epoxy sealer used is ESP 155 under India Spar Varnish. Neither of these products can be sold in California.

Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. - Epoxies since 1992 - call anytime - 603 435 7199

 

The same additives  that eliminates nearly all the bubbles has a downside. If you apply Bio Clear too thin (say more than  6 - 10 square feet per gallon), it may 'fisheye', "crater", "alligator hide' etc. This is not a product you brush on like paint or sealer. If you are looking for that kind of epoxy, call us for other epoxy options at: 603 435 7199

 

 

The "EPOXY GURU" explains the best treatment for a wooden outdoor table. It is NOT a poured-on epoxy - Table-GURU


 

How This Web Site is Organized

 

READ COMMENTS/ FEEDBACK FROM USERS OF BIO CLEAR 810 POUR ON EPOXY - CLICK HERE FOR CUSTOMER FEEDBACK . LOTS OF USEFUL END USER INFORMATION YOU WILL NOT FIND ON OTHER SITES.

 

INTRODUCTION

 

Section 1 - Pick your table top - bar top epoxy vendor carefully (find one that works with you 24/7)

BUBBLES - BUBBLES - BUBBLES - buyer beware!

 

Section 2 - Epoxies yellow - some more than others - lets talk about it instead of hiding this fact

 

Section 3 - Epoxy basics - new to 2 part epoxies - read, learn and call (603 435 7199) for basic information

 

Section 4 - First Things First - the math

 

Section 5 - First Things First - epoxy resins

 

Section 6 - User Notes part 1 and part 2 - real life pros and cons - issue you should know about - PRIMING/SEALING THE SUBSURFACE

 

Section 7 - What can go wrong You will not find this section at any of our competitor's sites

 

Section 8 - Useful links - more help and information

 

Section 9 - Epoxy 101 - more general epoxy information

 

Section 10 - A much much cheaper Option The "EPOXY GURU" explains the best treatment for a wooden outdoor table. It is NOT a poured-on epoxy - Table-GURU

 

Section 11 - Who we are - what we do - 20 years of epoxy experience  - The expert information provided here is the result of many years of industry involvement unmatched at other vendor sites. Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)


Order this product by calling 603-435-7199 anytime or order online using this link: EPOXY NOW

(1.5 quart test kit size available - to practice with)

 

(Our prices include all the email and 'returned phone call' support, handholding, help, advice you need or want. That's why our customers buy from us!)


epoxy build


INTRODUCTION

In A Nutshell....
 

For most applications (1/4 thick or more) you pour Bio Clear 810 two  part epoxy into a table top that is level, leak proof,  and has  edges to keep the epoxy from running out over the sides. One gallon of anything poured 1/4 inch thick covers 6 square feet. Bio Clear 810 is a very high end commercial grade bar top epoxy. Note that all epoxies will yellow in UV sunlight. Bio Clear 810 has very low yellowing compared to other epoxies. Contains anti bubble - surface tension agents. It comes in 1.5 and 3 gal kits (48 oz test kits too).  Order the Bio Clear 810 epoxy at www.epoxyusa.com or call 603-435-7199 to order or for questions. (If simply poured upon a surface it will leave a layer of about penny thick resin - the rest will run off the edge).

HINTS: 1) test with water first for levelness, leaks, and bubbles. Water is lots cheaper than epoxy! 2) consider doing a small mock up first so that your "Big Project" is not the first time you've poured epoxy.

Top 10 List of Bio Clear 810 Epoxy benefits:

1) thin, watery, self leveling resin system

2) very little yellowing - perhaps best in the industry

3) only anti bubble epoxy on the market (SUPER IMPORTANT FOR A PERFECT POUR)

4) only source for high end cyclo-aliphatic epoxy

5) 24/7 phone and email support

6) honest and complete info (pro and con) on this site. You get the FULL story.

7) sold by an epoxy coating company and not a sales/marketing firm

8) made in the USA

9) a favorite with both experienced professionals and 1st time DIY individuals. See the pictures and comments from our regular (repeat business) commercial users on this web page. The PROs have tested many products and could make a larger profit with cheaper epoxies, but with their reputation on the line (and the need for bubble free results)  they only use Bio Clear 810 epoxy. Examples of regular, commercial users on other (much slicker)  pour-on epoxy web sites is scant at best. There is a reason for that!

10) we appreciate your interest and thank you sincerely for your business!


"You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You." Brian S.

"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe


 

The same additives  that eliminates nearly all the bubbles has a downside. If you apply Bio Clear too thin (say more than  6 - 10 square feet per gallon), it may 'fisheye', "crater", "alligator hide' etc. This is not a product you brush on like paint or sealer. If you are looking for that kind of epoxy, call us for other epoxy options at: 603 435 7199

 

 

Largest single Bio Clear 810 Table top epoxy  one time Epoxy Pour - 1156 square feet (maybe an all time epoxy record?  You cannot do this with just any clear epoxy).


Hire the contractor that did this huge pour for your commercial Bar Top epoxy pour. See the white contractor box about 1/2 way down this page for details.

With over $10k worth of epoxy and $10k plus worth of labor, hotels, airfares, shipping, (to Hawaii) meals etc. all on 'one roll of the dice' you don't gamble on the epoxy - only the best will do.


(This is the good stuff - OK, it costs a little bit more - but keep reading and you'll see why it is the best resin (and only one specifically formulated for pour on bar and table tops with the least amount of epoxy yellowing of any product in the market and the only cyclo-aliphatic bar top - table top epoxy - used by the PROs - not just first time home-owners)


IF YOU DON'T USE CYCLOALIPHATIC BASED BIO CLEAR 810  WITH ANTI BUBBLE ADDITIVES,

YOU'LL REGRET IT BIG TIME. HERE'S WHY....

 

A commercial epoxy pour contractor recently used our Bio Clear 810 to replace a badly yellowed epoxy poured covered logo on the INSIDE  floor of regional airport terminal with our 'almost no yellowing' Bio Clear 810 (cyclo-aliphatic epoxies to the rescue!)

This is a good example of why you want to use only a cyclo-aliphatic epoxy for your bar top. The other clear epoxies sold for table tops suffer from bad (excessive?) yellowing (and I bet they don't even mention it on their web sites). 

Don't be like the first contractor that just poured some cheap clear epoxy over the airport logo and thought they did a good job. It looked fine to start with and the contractor made a few extra dollars using generic clear epoxy. Too bad. The airport was lucky they could redo their badly damaged cheap epoxy mistake. Most folks cannot redo their special poured epoxy table top.

 NOTE: Because of the yellowing, it is generally not a good idea to have a poured epoxy table / bar outside in the sun, but if you do - use our cycloaliphatic epoxy and keep it covered when not in use.

 

Cycloaliphatics epoxy systems generally cost about 25% more then ordinary epoxies. In many applications they are not necessary. But they certainly are for clear table tops and bar tops.  IF THE OTHER GUY'S EPOXY WAS A CYCLO-APHATIC EPOXY - YOU WOULD KNOW ABOUT IT.


Skip it all and get answers fast (or just talk about  your idea). Email us for help or questions about your epoxy pour project or the Bar Top epoxy resins. Leave a number and the best time to call if you want a one on one conversation. That's business the old fashion way!


Section 1 - Pick your table top bar top epoxy vendor carefully

 

VENDOR - PRODUCT WARNINGS / BUYER BEWARE

Since we started selling bar top and table top epoxies to homeowners and contractors years ago, other epoxy sellers have jumped on the bandwagon offering less than ideal epoxies at low prices. There are things you need to consider:


* RED FLAG #1  DON'T BUY FROM A MARKETING COMPANY - REPEAT - DON'T BUY FROM A MARKETING COMPANY!!

You buy cars from an automobile company, computers from a computer company, and lumber from a lumber company. You don't buy industrial chemicals (i.e. epoxies) from a marketing company. You buy epoxies from a chemical/epoxy source. Marketing companies sell $3 sunglasses, plastic containers made in China, weight loss pills, and pet rocks. Epoxies are chemicals - deal only with professionals.

Clues that you are dealing with a marketing company and not an epoxy company:

1) A really slick web site but no technical, chemical, or scientific words or jargon. Epoxy is all about chemistry. Cell phone companies talk about bandwidth and 4G, car companies talk about mpg, transmissions. Epoxy companies talk about epoxy yellowing, exotherm, cycloalphatic resins systems, viscosity, etc.

2) Marketing companies have Live Chat lines (how many small - medium sized manufacturing, technology, or scientific companies have employees just sitting at desks waiting for you to contact them?). And how many real non-marketing companies have computer pop up adds that follow you around after you've logged onto their site once?

3) All chemicals are required to have an MSDS (material data safety sheet) available for everyone to see. It lists the chemicals in the product, safety issues, etc. Commercial buyers, technical folks, even contractors ALWAYS want to see a product's MSDS and usually a products 'data sheet' - a one page summary about the product (find links to our data sheets and MSDS in the lower right corner of our  pink  PAGE AND SITE NAVIGATION table above). Not having links to product MSDS sheets means they are not real players in the chemical products market and are not going after 'professional' customers. Access to MSDS sheets is required by law! An MSDS sheet should be included with every order.

4) A focus on pricing. Marketing is about making money (getting your money) and not about the product being sold. Wholesale prices means what distributors and agents pay. That is 40-60 percent off what you and I pay for things. If the product offered is not half the retail price of competitors' products, you're not getting wholesale prices. If they offer more and more price breaks when you buy more volume of product, that tells you the product is over-priced. They still make lots of money at their lowest offered price. So why not offer that 'good price' for any amount you buy? When you go to the paint store you buy paint you pay the same unit price for one gallon as you do for 5 one gallon cans. No gimmicks there.

5) marketing companies try to sell you 'extra' high profit (to them) items. Chemical companies don't sell (or make) dime store plastic mixing sticks, containers, latex gloves etc.

6) Real companies don't sell just one product (either do marketing companies but they have one product web sites). Epoxy vendors sell a number of different epoxy products. Car manufacturers and computer manufactures sell more than one model.

7) Marketing companies make bold claims that their product is REALLY unique and different from their competitors' products. All epoxies, being chemically epoxies, are similar. Nearly all of them are solvent free (no VOC chemicals in them). All epoxies are rather like medium hard plastic and will scratch. No one epoxy is any more 'durable' or scratch resistant than another. No unique polycarbon chemistry. All epoxies have multiple carbon atoms in their chemical structure.   

8) "Sealer" shocking news! - After telling you their product is the 'perfect product' for table tops or bar tops the marketing folks then tell you that same product is also the 'perfect product' for sealing the surface before you pour your epoxy. What??? Table top epoxy sealers (epoxy or non epoxy sealers) are all very different products. They don't overlap. The only reason I can see for using the table top epoxy as a sealer is so that they can sell more product (i.e. get more of your money even if it isn't the best product to use). More on this below under RED FLAG #7.

 

 

RED FLAG #2

Every epoxy vendor has clear epoxies to sell. Most marine - boatbuilding epoxies, for example, are clear, as are most sealing epoxies. But just 'any clear epoxy' is not what you want to use for your table or bar. Epoxy yellowing is a big reason why. See below.

So, you do not what an epoxy that is advertised to do 'everything' from boats to floors to table tops to pebble decking. That is just proof you are being pushed to purchase a generic epoxy, not one designed for your poured on project. A marine epoxy is way too thick for your bar top - will not level nicely - thick = bubbles!

FYI - all epoxies are 2 part systems. You mix part A with Part B and a chemical reaction begins. Most simple epoxies have a mix ratio of 2 parts to 1. There are a few 1 to 1 mix ratio epoxies, but they are rare. However, in the poured on epoxy table and bar market there seems to be a lot of companies selling a 1 to  1 mix ratio product. I wonder if they are all buying from the some chemical source?

 

 

RED FLAG #3

Epoxy is too thick for a good bar or table top resin system.  Thick means bubbles and possible unlevel surfaces. Use thick epoxy for boat building and pebble pool decks, not on bar tops.

Clues that the epoxy is too thick for Bar or Table Tops:

1) You have to squeeze the container to get the epoxy resin out.

2) It gets cloudy from bubbles when you mix it.

3) You have to pour it out onto the surface slowly - like you would pouring tar on a roof.

4) Dealing with bubbles is normal and routine instead of the odd exception.

5) They brag about the thickness. If one product pours out at 1/16 of an inch and another at 1/8 of an inch, the 1/16 of an inch product is much thinner (with less bubbles, more self leveling, and more coverage per gallon. (FYI one gallon of any liquid poured at 1/4 inch thick only covers 6.2 square feet)

Most poured on bar and table tops are thick - over 1/4 inch - and these require an dam or sill around the edge to keep the epoxy from pouring out onto the floor. If you pour more than about 1/4 inch thick the chemical reaction the hardens the epoxy will generate too much heat and result in a wavy surface. So for thick pours you do multiple 1/4 inch layers. Professional like multi pours as anything that might go wrong happens usually in the first pour only.

 

 

RED FLAG #4

Mis-information (wrong stuff)

Some epoxy sites are posting wrong information.

1) Epoxies take a week or more for full cure. They often can be used in 3 or 4 days but they continue to cure for a week or so. Epoxy pros all know this.

2) To pop bubbles in a liquid epoxy you heat the air above the epoxy with a torch etc. You run the torch/heat parallel  to the surface. This warms and expands the air above the bubble and the bubble pops due to the lower air pressure.  You DO NOT point the open flame/extreme heat at any chemical that will burn, including epoxy. You could also "bake or cook" the area where the heat is applied. Ask any high school chemistry teacher or lab technician. Science folks know this, marketing types not so much.

3) Like most coatings, epoxies will not stick to greasy or oil covered surfaces. One marketing company states that epoxy will not bond over oil based paints! Oil based paints are actually regular enamel paints sold at hardware stores that use long chain solvents (not really oils). Any handyman or craft person knows there is no oil film on enamel painted surfaces. As  you would expect, epoxies stick fine over enamels, latex and poly paints. Any paint professional knows this, marketing types not so much.

 

 

RED FLAG #5

No weekend or evening support. That is the time most DIY folks are doing epoxy pours. They work during the day! Any company that you cannot reach on a Friday night or Sunday Morning is looking our for their bottom line, not yours.

 

 

RED FLAG #6

Overlooked information. These issues should be clearly mentioned and explained:

1) Epoxy yellowing in UV light

2) What happens if poured too thick - big heat kick and uneven surface

3) What happens if you do a poor job mixing (you get sticky spots that never get hard - fix = more epoxy on top)

4) Epoxy scratch relatively easily (treat with care)

5) Epoxies soften at about 160 degrees. Place a hot object on the epoxy and it will leave a permanent dent in the epoxy

 

 

RED FLAG #7

Using the same product (epoxy) to seal the substrate surface as you use for the poured epoxy surface. The purpose of sealing the surface is:

1) Prevent the epoxy from leaking out (thick epoxy pour - you need leak-proof edging and corners

2) Prevent air bubbles from coming out of the substrate material

3) Discover problems before using the expensive epoxy - such as un-expected oil, grease, wax etc. that will cause the epoxy to do fisheye, crater etc. Better to find (or prevent) this in the sealer coat where it can be addressed.

4) Glue down objects to be placed in the epoxy pour.

 

 

Bubbles in Poured-On thick epoxy table tops and bar tops

In past years bubbles in poured epoxy table tops wasn't such a big deal. That changed when anyone selling a clear epoxy decided their product was good for table and bar tops and the number of vendors on the internet exploded (bad news for folks wanting to do a pour on epoxy project correctly and professionally). These folks figure if they post a couple of good looking pictures or videos and offer a low customer price for a cheap low end epoxy, they will make lots of money from unsuspecting buyers.

A too thick epoxy, excessively quick yellowing (all epoxies yellow in sunlight, some more and faster than others), a 'violent kick' when the epoxy 'goes off/sets up" and lots of bubbles to deal with are all signs of an epoxy not suited for table tops or bar tops (and probably add in a low product price and lack of email/telephone support). This bit of text is focused on the bubbling issue.

Bubbles are caused from three sources. 1) air coming out of the surface the epoxy is applied over; 2) air from in and around objects placed in the epoxy; and 3) from air in the epoxy caused by mixing the two parts of the epoxy. Numbers 1 and 2 are correctable, customer based issues. The base surface (and the edging around the surface) should have been sealed with two coats of any clear sealer or paint (then test with water for leaks and bubbles). Objects in the epoxy should be filled with clay, sealed with a clear coat etc. (one contractor used pennies attached with hot glue but the glue did not go all the way to the edges so when the epoxy was poured there was a ring of bubbles around each penny).

Bubbles from mixing the epoxy can be addressed with a heat source (generally a torch) applied not to the bubbles that have collected on the surface of the epoxy but parallel to the surface of the epoxy warming (and expanding) the air above the bubbles which will then pop. There are several videos of this on YouTube. WITH THE CORRECT EPOXY - LIKE BIO CLEAR 810 - these bubbles are rare because:

1) the product is very watery,

2) Our Bio Clear 810 product is formulated for low surface tension - meaning bubbles to tend to self-pop but on the downside it also means if applied too thin on a smooth surface  (less then about a 1/8 inch thick) it will not level out smoothly and may fisheye. You will not find any other product with 'surface tension additives to help control bubbles. This helps to make this epoxy a favorite with the PROs (plus it's low amount of epoxy yellowing!).

So if the vendor of the epoxy you are considering (not like our Bio Clear 810 epoxy) makes a big deal about having to TORCH your project to remove lots of bubbles, you know right off their epoxy isn't one that should be used for poured on tables or bar tops. DON'T RUIN YOUR PROJECT BY USING A BUBBLE PLAGUED EPOXY JUST TO SAVE A FEW PENNIES! DON'T PUT A TORCH TO YOUR NEW EPOXY PROJECT! THERE IS NO 'REDO' BUTTON.

Bio Clear 810 may cost a bit more than the "clear epoxies sold online" but it is the best product for your poured on bar top or table top.

 

 


To: info@epoxyproducts.com (9/14)

RE: Bio Clear 810 table top epoxy

-- Paul,

Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful.

Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!

Sincerely, Joe

Laissez les Bon Temps Rouler!!


Horror Stories Using Competitors'  Budget Epoxies

BACKGROUND: There are two types of epoxy vendors. The 'serious' professional grade epoxies  are formulated by beginning with  the raw resins manufactured by the giant chemical companies. Call these companies EPOXY FORMULATORS.  Generally the low price epoxy vendors merely repackage these raw bulk resins. Not a good thing!  Call these companies EPOXY REPACKAGERS. It is the difference between Moonshine and Jack Daniels. Use only FORMULATED SPECIAL PURPOSE EPOXIES LIKE THOSE SOLD IN THIS WEB SITE. Going cheap can have very $$$ consequences. See Below:

EXAMPLE 1:  A commercial epoxy pour contractor recently used our Bio Clear 810 pour on  epoxy to replace a badly yellowed epoxy covered logo in the INSIDE  floor of regional airport terminal with our 'almost no yellowing' Bio Clear 810 (cyclo-aliphatic epoxies to the rescue!) We don't know for certain that the original contractor used some inexpensive REPACKAGER'S epoxy, but it certainly sounds like it.

EXAMPLE 2: I recently got a phone call from someone using epoxy to seal wooden tables they were selling. They were using 'cheap' epoxy from a  REPACKAGER (uxcoxxxxxxxs). After six months the epoxy on the tables all exhibited millions of tiny cracks (like shattered safety glass). This wouldn't have happened with a specially formulated epoxy designed to overcome the 'flaws' of the raw resins. Bad news for them.

EXAMPLE 3: Another phone caller told me how they had ordered over a hundred gallons of epoxy in two separate orders from a low cost REPACKAGER (bxxxbxxxxxxxxxy). The first batch worked fine but the second batch failed completely. The vendor knew it was their fault (bad batch? wrong barrel to jug pour out?) and refunded their money. But that didn't undo the damage done.

 

The same additives  that eliminates nearly all the bubbles has a downside. If you apply Bio Clear too thin (say more than  6 - 10 square feet per gallon), it may 'fisheye', "crater", "alligator hide' etc. This is not a product you brush on like paint or sealer. If you are looking for that kind of epoxy, call us for other epoxy options at: 603 435 7199

 


Section 2 - Epoxies yellow

 

* All epoxies yellow in sunlight and even over time. UV protection cannot be added to epoxies, but can be added to other kinds of clear coatings that can go over the epoxy. We are very up-front about epoxy yellowing. If your other epoxy vendor doesn't mention it, they are not being completely open and honest with you.  Some even claim to have non yellowing epoxy. Yellowing is to do with the Part B curing agents. Some Curing agents yellow more than others and some epoxy kits use less curing agents than other kits. For example some vendors offer 2 gallon kits of epoxy with one gallon of Part A and one gallon of Part B (a 1 to 1 mix ratio). Other vendors offer kits that use half as much curing agent. These kits contain one gallon of Part A and 1/2 gallon of Part B (a 2 to 1 mix ratio). Bio Clear 810 is a 2:1 mix ratio epoxy. It use a very slow yellowing curing agent, and less of that curing agent compared to the competition.

 

The truth is that some epoxies yellow faster than others but they all do. It is the nature of epoxies. They are probably claiming the slow to yellow epoxies are 'non yellowing' - acceptable in many marketing based companies.  UV blockers and absorbers cannot be added to thermoset resin systems (like epoxy) or the epoxy will not 'cross link' correctly. Don't believe claims to the contrary. If that 'magical' additive existed, it would revolutionize the epoxy coating industry (used on ships, boats, pits, storage tanks etc.) and become quickly accepted and used by every epoxy manufacturer (like the invention of the automatic transmission in the auto industry). And if it did exist it would come from some large chemical company that makes all the raw epoxy resins and curing agents and not some internet epoxy sales site. Finally, if there was such an additive or curing agent, it would certainly be introduced and marketed in much much larger epoxy niches than just bar tops and table tops.

 

Note that our table top epoxy, Bio Clear 810 (tm) has very slow, reduced yellowing. A commercial epoxy pour contractor recently used our Bio Clear 810 to replace a badly yellowed epoxy covered logo in the INSIDE  floor of regional airport terminal with our 'almost no yellowing' Bio Clear 810 (cyclo-aliphatic epoxies to the rescue!) This is a good example of why you want to use only a cyclo-aliphatic epoxy for your bar top. The other clear epoxies sold for table tops suffer from bad (excessive?) yellowing (and I bet they don't even mention it on their web sites).  Because of the yellowing, it is generally not a good idea to have a poured epoxy table / bar outside in the sun, but if you do - use our cycloaliphatic epoxy and keep it covered with not in use.

 

The reduced very slow yellowing of Bio Clear 810 is a major reason why you should use Bio Clear 810 table top - bar top epoxy and why it costs a little bit more than some of the competitor's so called bar top epoxy. Use Bio Clear 810 (and not the other brands) especially in outdoor settings. (keep covered when not in use).

 

The primary reason why Bio Clear 810 is so superior to any of its competitors is that it uses cyclo-aliphatic resin systems with superior weathering  (UV)  properties - which include low yellowing. We do sell a 2 part poly (acrylic poly uv plus (tm) with max UV protection, but unless skilled at spraying 2 part coatings, you'll be better off with just the very clear 810 and no rolled or brushed top coat over it.

The PROs use Bio Clear 810 - because their reputation is on the line. The other "internet clear epoxies" just don't cut it when long term performance counts


Section 3 - Epoxy basics

 

* When epoxies start to set they release a lot of heat that can result in the epoxy bubbling, frothing or turning wavy. While they all do this, some do it much worse than others, limiting how thick you can pour before bad things happen. Our Bio Clear 810 epoxy has a much slower, more uniform heat release (called exotherm reaction) than other epoxies so it is less likely to 'bubble up' if poured thick.

 

* Epoxies come in various thicknesses. You need to purchase a very thin, clear epoxy (thinner than you would use for boatbuilding, recoating pebble decks, fiber-glassing etc.). Thicker epoxies will create lots of bubbles when the 2 parts are mixed and these bubbles will not have time to surface and pop if the epoxy is thick. Also thicker epoxies may not self level quickly enough. Real Bar top and table top epoxies are formulated to be extra thin, like our Bio Clear 810 epoxy. So, in general, a clear epoxy advertised as used for boatbuilding and Table Tops, is not a good selection.

 

* Many/most of the low cost epoxy vendors don't formulate their products at all. Instead they purchase in bulk the raw resins and curing agents manufactured by the few giant chemical companies that make them.  The better vendors use these 'raw materials' purchased by the low end vendors (and everyone else) as the starting point for their epoxies, and formulate the products for improved features. It is sort of like the difference between alcohol and Jack Daniels.  using a barrel of oil from an oil rig in your car instead of using the formulated/refined version called gasoline. This applies equally to boat building and marine epoxies, just as it does for table top/bar top epoxies. Usually the only clue you have is a 'dirt cheap'.  Once you recognize the difference between epoxy formulators and epoxy repackagers, you understand the differences between their epoxies is 'day and night." Repackagers also don't have must information about the specific applications of their products (no big web sites). Look for a simple description, not requests for email questions, and a very low price to win  you over.  Let the Buyer Beware.

 

* Pricing. Epoxies aren't cheap. Good, formulated epoxies cost between about $100 a gallon to about $150 a gallon. Special epoxies can cost hundreds of dollars a gallon. Generally, vendors that sell through distributors have to charge more because the distributors get a 40%-60% discount on list price and the manufacturer still has to make a profit. Marine epoxy is similar to table top epoxies. Google West Marine (online boating store) and search for epoxy. Be sure you price both the resin part A and the hardener (curing agent) part B. This will give you an idea on what good epoxies cost. Don't risk your project on strangely cheap epoxy. Often, if something goes really wrong, you cannot undo the results. Also, superior cycloaliphatic epoxies, like Bio Clear 810, simply cost more to manufacture and formulate.

 

* Customer support is also a key issue for contractors and first time homeowners (DIY folks!). For first time users we often do a lot of hand holding and support, before and after the sale. To evaluate your potential supplier for 'support' we suggest you email and/or call them with questions, etc. so that you can see if they will be there for you when you are considering the purchase, when you purchase, when you do your pour and after the pour if you have any issues. You can reach us by phone or email (email is better!) via our contact page at: www.epoxyproducts.com/contact.html. We sell a 48 oz 'test kit' of Bio Clear 810 so you can evaluate and learn before the Big Pour. We also sell pints or quarts of Part A or Part B by itself to our customers at pro-rated prices because accidents and spills happen and we would expect that kind of service ourselves. Ask the other vendors if you can buy less than a full kit of epoxy if you spill some product. Order one day and we ship it the following day. For more info on how to evaluate your epoxy vendor and his products see our page: www.epoxyproducts.com/eval4u.html. We also have a page on how to evaluate your marine epoxy products - www.epoxyproducts.com/mepoxies.html.

 

* Case studies and customer postings - keep reading!

One contractor/customer was hired to do a poured epoxy floor in the Hawaii based recording studio of a retired famous rock star with our Bio Clear 810 epoxy (plus lots of commercial bar tops and airport terminal logo floors). All we can add is that most of our commercial contractor Bio Clear 810 customers started out with other epoxy brands and shifted over to us. You will not find anything like our User Feedback page on any other web site! It is extensive and includes, email questions, problems, comments from our customers. Scroll down to the Bio Clear 810 section on our feedback page -- www.epoxyproducts.com/usernotes.html .

 

* You will not find web page after web page, customer pictures, customer feedback (good and bad), on the other sites. They sell cheap epoxy, we sell customer involvement, information and interest in your project (even hand holding for nervous first time users). That is why customers send us their finished project pictures!

 

This is the product used by professional and DIY home folks (see the pictures below). Bio Clear 810 is not the 'consumer' grade stuff found in hobby shops and slick sales based web site. It is formulated and sold to epoxy professionals. It has been formulated for the least amount of epoxy "uv yellowing" of any table top epoxy and the only cyclo-aliphatic table top epoxy in the market.


 

Every pour on epoxy project requires knowing product options, selecting the right products in the right amounts and knowing how to use those products. You can only do that with a one-on-one conversation with your product vendor.

Call (603-435-7199) or EMAIL me about what you're doing. We try to earn your business one phone call at a time!

 

 

READ COMMENTS/ FEEDBACK FROM USERS OF BIO CLEAR 810 - CLICK .

more bar top table top examples --- www.epoxyproducts.com/bartop2.html .

Order this product by calling 603-435-7199 anytime or order online using this link: EPOXY NOW


Section 4 - First Things First - the math


 

The big shocker to people considering a thick poured on clear table top is the amount of epoxy necessary. Here are some numbers you need to know:


1 gallon of anything applied 1/4 inch thick will only cover slightly less than 6.2 square feet.

1 gallon of anything applied 1 inch thick will only cover 1.6 square feet.

At 1/2 inch thick that gallon of epoxy will only cover about 3.2 square feet.

There 231 cubic inches in a gallon. One square foot is equal to 144 square inches.

(WHY DON'T THE OTHER GUYS SHARE THIS BASIC INFO WITH POTENTIAL CUSTOMERS?)


 

bio clear tabletop bar top epoxy

Contact Page /Link to Storefront/Ordering

 


810 table top bartop epoxy

this is from "James" in the 'user notes' page


A commercial epoxy pour contractor recently used our Bio Clear 810 to replace a badly yellowed epoxy covered logo in the INSIDE  floor of regional airport terminal with our 'almost no yellowing' Bio Clear 810 (cyclo-aliphatic epoxies to the rescue!) This is a good example of why you want to use only a cyclo-aliphatic epoxy for your bar top. The other clear epoxies sold for table tops suffer from bad (excessive?) yellowing (and I bet they don't even mention it on their web sites).  Because of the yellowing, it is generally not a good idea to have a poured epoxy table / bar outside in the sun, but if you do - use our cycloaliphatic epoxy and keep it covered when not in use.


Feedback years later from the Airport:

 "The product that he used seems to be fine as far as quality and yellowing"

The PROs use Bio Clear 810 because the 'other bargain internet' stuff

just doesn't perform up to commercial standards

 

"Your web site is delight to scroll through, confusing and funny at the same time, with a lot of info you wouldn't find at any "serious big corporate" web sites. Keep up the good work and good luck..."

 


Section 5 - First Things First - two part epoxy resins

 


Epoxies do not do well in direct sunlight (direct UV exposure). They will turn cloudy and yellow, lose their shine and perhaps even chalk. All epoxies, especially white and clear epoxies do this. Most do it rather quickly, within a few days of constant exposure. Some, like our very popular Bio Clear 810 do it very very slowly (weeks instead of days).

1) keep the table out of direct sun when not in use (use a cover!)

2) one or two coats of clear 2-part Acrylic Poly UV Plus will stop or stop UV yellowing of the epoxy. (More on UV blockers). Note: UV blockers cannot be added/blended into epoxies and nearly all non-epoxy clear coat products have little or no UV blockers in them. This options requires skill at spraying 2 part polys. For the average person - you'll get better results with the bio clear 810 without a UV blocking topcoat (keep covered when not in use if outdoors). The yellowing of 810 is really slow. The UV topcoats tend to show brush marks etc. which is s step down from the glassy smooth finish of the poured on Bio Clear 810.

Order this EPOXY product NOW


Epoxies may feel hard and 'cured' within a few hours, but they take a week or more to cure completely. If you make the mistake of putting some paper or a heavy or sharp object on an epoxy surface that is less than several days old, the paper will glue itself to the epoxy and the objects will 'dent' the epoxy.


Epoxies are really just a hard plastic. Mix parts A and B together and a chemical reaction occurs between the two parts. The reaction generates heat and the epoxy gets hard. Many epoxies generate A LOT OF HEAT. So much that the mixture might froth up, melt the container it is in, smoke, and most certainly produce an uneven surface. With epoxies like these you are generally told not to pour out layers more than half an inch or one quarter inch (so that less heat and distortion results due to the lesser amount of epoxy present and the amount of surface area to 'expel the heat).


Most people would like a thick clear epoxy to apply to their table or bar top. Thick, unfortunately has trouble with trapped tiny air bubbles. Mixing and pouring the epoxy introduces lots of bubbles to the mixture. Fortunately most will rise to the surface and pop before the epoxy gets hard and traps them. Heating the poured epoxy with a hair dryer will aid the bubbles rising to the surface and popping. The heat the epoxy generates as it cures (if not too great) will also help the epoxy rise to the surface and pop.


Like most plastics, epoxies will soften with heat. Generally if you place something that is hotter than about 125 degrees F (such as a hot coffee cup) it might soften the epoxy to the point of leaving a dent, ring or depression in the epoxy that will not go away. Keep hot things away from your epoxy surface.


Yes, it is common to build up the thickness by doing a multiple layers of epoxy pours (generally because of the heat release on most epoxies). Our Bio Clear 810 (avail in 1.5 gal and 3 gal kits) can take pours up to almost /2 inch.


 


Quick Buy  (click or call 603 435 71990 -- DIY BIO CLEAR 810 (tm) BAR TOP EPOXY --

(under "Special Purpose Epoxies")

one 3-gal kit will cover 18 sf at 1/4 inch thick

No Sales Tax applied. Save Money, you're shopping in Tax Free New Hampshire

We are always shipping 48 oz, 1.5 gal and 3 gal units - to homeowners and professional contractors - order your cyclo-aliphatic table to epoxy today.


"Paul, Finally got my top poured, your product is AWESOME. I was hesitant with all I read about go small first, my top was 8'x2'6"x1/4". I'm the "Go big or go home" guy, this top was my first pour & I feel that your product made it as easy as it could be. I was very surprised at the lack of fumes, I poured in a different location & could have just poured in the store where the counter is going."


A block of Bio Clear 810 (tm) tabletop epoxy shown with router rounded edges, an embedded coin, and routed "X" filled in with black epoxy.



The PRO's use bio clear 810 for commercial projects. Their reputation

is on the line. No 'bulk clear internet' epoxy for them!

Actual Bio Clear 810 customer projects and examples --- www.epoxyproducts.com/bartop2.html .

Contact Page /Link to Storefront/Ordering

 

Bio Clear 810 Contractor Box - Hire a Pro for your next epoxy pour

Ohio based John Martin of Epoxy Concepts has travelled the country pouring Bio Clear 810 epoxy on commercial projects. His largest project, probably a record setter in poured epoxy projects, was a 34 ft by 34 ft  (1156 squ feet) recording studio floor. With the help of 6 assistants Mr. Martin tinted the epoxy blue, added metal flakes to make the poured epoxy sparkle, and poured out over 200 gallons of Bio Clear 810 epoxy.

More common projects for Mr. Martin are commercial bars (may of the bar pictures here are Mr. Martin projects). As the owners tell me, "All the money is made within ten feet of the bar," so the bar gets top billing. Generally it takes about 20 gallons of Bio Clear 810 for commercial  bar surface. Sets of table tops for restaurants are also common projects.

Mr. Martin does not work for us. Our customers hire him directly after purchasing the Bio Clear 810 epoxy from us. Mr. Martin and Epoxy Concepts can be reached at jjgmartin@gmail.com or by calling 859-553-3187

Your project might not be 1156 square feet, but use an professional epoxy that can handle such a huge pour successfully. Bio Clear 810 has a track record and following in the professional marketplace.

 

 

Order this EPOXY product NOW


 

Section 6 - User Notes part 1 and part 2


Important User Notes Part 1:

 

PRIME / SEAL The Surface

The surface to be coated is often sealed with some other product prior to pouring the epoxy.  This is necessary when pouring over old lumber etc. Also many of the objects to be covered with epoxy need to be sealed to prevent air (and bubbles) from coming out of them. Generally people use a clear polyurethane from the hardware store, or marine spar varnish, or even glue. When sealing old wood, seal with at least 2 coats of sealer (as per customer feedback - one coat may not be enough). Sealing prevents leaks, bubbles, and show possible bad stuff, like grease or oil that will mess up the epoxy pour. It an also glue down objects to be placed in the epoxy. Easier to fix before the epoxy is poured (may not be able to fix after the epoxy is poured).

So... two coats of clear sealer recommended - let dry for several days or longer.

 

WE RECOMMEND YOU 'TEST' YOUR SEALED SURFACE WITH WATER BEFORE APPLYING THE EPOXY. THE WATER WILL TEST FOR LEAKS, LEVELNESS, AND BUBBLES

IF SATISFIED, SPONGE THE WATER OUT - WAIT A FEW DAYS TO DRY COMPLETELY THEN POUR YOUR EPOXY


 

Surface to be top coated must be clean and free of oils, grease and loose contamination. The epoxy and the surface to be coated should be at a constant 68 degrees or warmer for 24 hours before and after the pour.



Mix Bio-Clear 810 epoxy base with the Bio-Clear 810 curing agent. Make sure that both parts A and B are clear prior to mixing - if not, do not proceed and contact supplier). Mixture will also be clear after mixing. Use a mechanical mixer if possible to ensure thorough mixing. The mixing ratio is 2/1 (base/curing agent) by volume or 1/0.43 by weight. Bubbles resulting from the mixing will rise to the surface and most or all will pop. Heat from a torch or hair drier (set on low) will usually pop most remaining bubbles. It is never possible to completely mix all of the epoxy in your mixing container. The epoxy at the corner of the bottom and sides, and on the bottom will probably not be mixed well enough. Therefore, after mixing do not try to get every last drop out of the mixing container (don’t overturn the mixing container and drain it for a long period of time). Bio-Clear 810 does not require a ‘sweat-in’ or induction time and the mixed components should be used immediately.
 


TEST the epoxy on your surface. Some surfaces will release a lot of air bubbles. Cheap inks may bleed. Unknown or unsuspected contaminants on the surface may discolor the epoxy. Sudden changes in temperature or humidity may affect the epoxy. Make sure your raised edges or sills are leak proof and level. Once poured, it is almost impossible to stop an epoxy leak in a corner. Bio-Clear 810 cannot be brushed on. It must be poured at sufficient depth to prevent surface tension related fisheyes.

 

The epoxy will feel dry and hard overnight, but it takes a week for it to fully cure and harden. Do not place objects on the epoxy before then as they will stick or leave a dent or impression in the still hardening epoxy.


Mixing: even a slightly less then perfect mixing can ruin a table pour and Murphy's Law seems to always apply. First make sure parts A and B are clear (part A and/or by may have a slight yellow or amber tint, this will not be visible in your pour).

 

Get everything at the same temperature - epoxy and the all surfaces and keep it that way for a day or so after the pour. Avoid applying near windows etc. where sunlight will change the temperature. Temperature changes (warmer temps) may cause bubbles to form.

 

Next, mix a bit of A and B (2:1 mix ratio) and test on your surface. This is to give you experience with the product, test compatibility with your surface, bubbles coming out of the surface, etc. No one wants surprises with the main pour! Make sure your edges/corners don't leak! (you can seal with a bit of this test bit of epoxy - then re-test for leaks!).

 

Now, mix up batches no larger than 1.5 gallons at a time. Larger batches can be harder to mix well, are more likely to spill, etc. Mix in a separate, large, third container. Pouring into and out of this third container aids mixing. Using a large container will mean you can mix  without concern of it spilling out over the top. Not mixing well vertically (mixing the top and bottom layers) is a disappointment waiting to happen!

 

Don't try to get the last few drops of epoxy out of your mixing container. The liquid sticking to the sides and corners/edges of the container never get completely mixed. Pour your mixture out of the mixing container but don't keep it draining out for more than 10 seconds or so. Poorly mixed epoxy will always stay tacky or wet, either in certain areas or all over.

 

Finally, the epoxy will feel dry and firm overnight but will continue hardening for a week or so. Don't place papers or objects on the epoxy for at least several days or they will stick or leave a dent.

 

Important User Notes Part 2:

 

EPOXIES SOFTEN WITH HEAT. HOT COFFEE CUPS ETC. WILL LEAVE A LASTING RING IN THE EPOXY. NEVER PUT ANYTHING HOTTER THAN ABOUT 130 DEGREES F ON AN EPOXY SURFACE.


WHILE EPOXIES WILL FEEL DRY AND HARD OVERNIGHT THEY TAKE UPWARDS OF ONE WEEK TO COMPLETELY CURE. OBJECTS LEFT ON EPOXY SURFACES LESS THEN 1 WEEK OLD MAY LEAVE A 'DENT' OR PERMANENTLY BOND TO THE EPOXY (ESPECIALLY PAPERS AND CARDBOARD).


TRAPPED AIR BUBBLES ARE RARELY A PROBLEM WITH THIN WATERY EPOXIES. BE SURE YOU ARE NOT GETTING ESCAPED AIR (AND BUBBLES) FROM THE TABLE/BAR SURFACE OR THE OBJECTS YOU MIGHT BE COVERING. A HEAT GUN (OR SUPER QUICK PASS WITH A PROPANE TORCH/COOKING TORCH) WILL QUICKLY REMOVE ALL SURFACE (SURFACE ONLY) BUBBLES AND PROMOTE THE OTHER BELOW SURFACE BUBBLES TO THE SURFACE.

 

TO MINIMIZE BUBBLES MIX THE 2 PART EPOXY COMPLETELY BUT SLOWLY. IN OTHER WORDS DON'T USE A MIXER ON A DRILLING TURNING AT 1200 RPMs (WE'RE NOT MAKING WHIP CREAM!).


RUNNING A FAN OVER THE POURED EPOXY SURFACE WILL HELP 'EVEN OUT' TEMPERATURE 'SPOTS' THAT CAN CAUSE STRESS CRACKS, UNEVEN SURFACES, ETC.


THE COLORS IN CHEAP PAPER OBJECTS MAY RUN WHEN COVERED WITH THE EPOXY.


YOU CAN SAND OUT FLAWS ETC. THE CLOUDY SURFACE THAT RESULTS CAN BE MADE CLEAR AGAIN WITH A CLEAR TOPCOAT OF JUST ABOUT ANYTHING (NOTE THAT THE 810 EPOXY CANNOT BE APPLIED THINLY - IT WILL FISHEYE) - YOU MIGHT EVEN TRY CLEAR NAIL POLISH.

 



Section 7 - What can go wrong

 

WHAT CAN GO WRONG - DIY PROBLEMS WE HEAR ABOUT


1) The epoxy leaks out from the corners FIX seal the edges and corners (using some of the epoxy, varnish, etc.). Test (maybe with water) before your big pour.

 

2) Bubbles in the epoxy - either from mixing too vigorously (you're not making whip cream!) or from the wood/objects you are covering with the epoxy. Sealing the surface prior to the pour will take care of the bubbles from objects in the epoxy. To remove bubbles quickly pass a torch/heat gun over the surface of the epoxy once the bubbles have reached the surface of the epoxy.


3) Stress cracks. On large pours (say over 3 or 4 gallons, or maybe greater than 15 or 16 square feet) - stress cracks can form from all the different temperatures generated. The bigger the pour the thinner each layer of epoxy has to be to 'handle' all the heat. I wish I could be more exact here, but I have no 'real' numbers to offer. I have found that running a fan across the poured epoxy helps to dissipate and even-out the heat generated permitting thicker and larger pours.


4) Ridges and an uneven surface. Just like the stress cracks, this is a result of too much epoxy (too thick) applied at one time. The unevenness is from the heat generated (unevenly) in the pour.

 

 

A commercial epoxy pour contractor recently used our Bio Clear 810 to replace a badly yellowed epoxy covered logo in the INSIDE  floor of regional airport terminal with our 'almost no yellowing' Bio Clear 810 (cyclo-aliphatic epoxies to the rescue!) This is a good example of why you want to use only a cyclo-aliphatic epoxy for your bar top. The other clear epoxies sold for table tops suffer from bad (excessive?) yellowing (and I bet they don't even mention it on their web sites).  Because of the yellowing, it is generally not a good idea to have a poured epoxy table / bar outside in the sun, but if you do - use our cycloaliphatic epoxy and keep it covered with not in use.

 

We hope the information provided by these pages will convince you to go for Quality over low end, cheap,  rapidly yellowing, generic epoxy. We are a professional  epoxy  company that wants informed customers and cares about those customer's projects. And yes, we ask for  your business.....


Two Part Epoxy Product Groups:

(EVERYTHING-EPOXY.INFO  ---  Intro to basic epoxy resin types )

 

EMERGENCY YACHT  UNDERWATER REPAIR

A Case Study Using Progressive Epoxy Polymer's  Underwater Epoxy - WET DRY 700 Underwater Epoxy  and Corro Coat FC2100A (BUY NOW) read how our epoxies and customer service saved the day over a decade ago (2003).  Read more (click here). Those products and service still available to you - call 603 435 7199 anytime and ask for Paul Oman.

 Underwater epoxy for Emergency hull repair - sinking yacht Case Study - now  in book form at Amazon

http://www.bansheeboat.com/files/testimonials.html

 

 

Marine 1 Page Product/Price list --- for Marine Catalog

DIY 1 Page Product/Price list --- for DIY/Commercial Catalog

Help EMAIL US // Boat Links // Floor Links // DIY Repair Links // BUY online // SITE MAP INDEX

 

24/7 free support help and order line 603-435-7199

No sales tax (New Hampshire Location)

 


Section 8 - Useful links

 

 

Start - Return to our home page and get the story from the beginning - www.epoxyproducts.com

 


READ COMMENTS/ FEEDBACK FROM USERS OF BIO CLEAR 810 POUR ON EPOXY - CLICK HERE FOR CUSTOMER FEEDBACK . LOTS OF USEFUL END USER INFORMATION YOU WILL NOT FIND ON OTHER SITES.

Actual Bio Clear 810 customer projects and examples link page  --- www.epoxyproducts.com/bartop2.html .

more pics (and third party applicators to do your bar) --- www.epoxyproducts.com/barcontract.html .

purchase Bio Clear 810 in our web store --- (www.epoxyUSA.com) .

more on clear epoxy (and non epoxy) coatings and finishes - (www.clear4u.html).

bar top table top epoxy vendor scams -  (click here)

 

Bio Clear 810 DIY Table top epoxy  data sheet and MSDS

 

Bio Clear 810 pour on table/bar top epoxy Sampler Kit

New to pour on epoxy projects? Best approach is to order our 48 oz Bio Clear 810 sample kit. Get past the learning curve and gain some experience up front. Don't tackle your Big Project  with products you have no experience using - too risky!  This product is featured on the GreatThings4u.com website.

CLICK HERE to see these products in our online catalog (special purpose epoxies section).

 


Click here for the latest "how to instructions and comments" formatted as a PDF file for easy downloading/printing..



 

 

 

LEGAL NOTICE: By visiting this web site you agree that the laws of the state of New Hampshire, without regard to principles of conflict of laws, will govern these terms and conditions and any dispute of any sort that might arise. Any dispute relating in any way to your visit to this site or to products you purchase through epoxyoutlet.com shall be submitted to confidential arbitration in Pittsfield, New Hampshire, except that, to the extent you have in any manner violated or threatened to violate our intellectual property rights, we may seek injunctive or other appropriate relief in any state or federal court in the state of New Hampshire, and you consent to exclusive jurisdiction and venue in such courts. Arbitration under this agreement shall be conducted under the rules then prevailing of the American Arbitration Association. The arbitrator's award shall be binding and may be entered as a judgment in any court of competent jurisdiction.

 


We also do re-sealing of pebble decks with the same approach of information, quality and performance.

 


Section 9 - Epoxy 101 - more general epoxy information

 

Epoxy Essentials (tm)

 

Reasons for coating failures

Preparation problem 70%; application problem 12%; environment problem 6%; wrong paint selection 9%; bad paint 1%; adding thinner 2%


"At least 70% of premature coatings failures are traced back to 'surface preparation' whether referring to wood, concrete, or metal. In a commercial recoating project, the costs (and profit) associated with surface preparation are about 70% of the job. How extensive the surface preparation is will depend on the performance expectation of the owner... Know the A, B, C's of surface preparation - visible contaminants, invisible contaminants, and profile."

 

Dr. Lydia Frenzel, The ABCs of Surface Preparation, Cleaner Times, April 2001, pg. 42-44.


DID YOU KNOW...

 

Epoxy coatings are used because of their outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond strength.
 

Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard ‘plastic'.

Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.

Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.

By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.

Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).

The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.

End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.

Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.

Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.

It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.


How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.

 

Section 10 - A much cheaper alternative to a poured bar/table top

 

There just isn't any way around it. Poured epoxy tables and bars are expensive because they use a lot of expensive epoxy (1 gal only covers 6.2 sf at 1/4 inch thick).
 
The alternative is no not have a thick poured bar top. Instead - go with an optional epoxy sealed surface (ESP 155) , optional several coats of brushed on clear thin epoxy (LOW V FLOOR) and finish with INDIA MARINE SPAR VARNISH topping the surface. It is classy , traditional, glossy look that is easy to maintain  and cheaper than a poured 1/4 - 1/2 inch epoxy top.
 
1) The ESP 155 and the India Spar Varnish  CANNOT BE SOLD IN CALIFORNIA.
 

TO ORDER GOTO OUR MAIN STORE FRONT (CLICK HERE). FIND THE ESP 155 PRIMER AND THE LOW V FLOOR EPOXY IN THE epoxy SECTION AND THE INDIA SPAR VARNISH IN THE non epoxy SECTION.

or call to talk about your project or to order - 603 435 7199
 

marine spar varnish

 

marine spar varnish

 

"I bought some ESP 155 as a prime coat and used your India Marine Spar Varnish on top - unbelievably good! Forty year old mahogany seats in my dingy look as good as the brand new gunwales. Not sure how well it projects on the camera - dark basement- but looks so, so good!" John 1/15

 

 

 

Section 11 - Who we are - what we do

 

 

 

 

Most Popular & Visited

pages at:

Epoxyproducts.com

(see below)

Check Us Out!

CONTACT PAGE

 

storefronts, phone,

text, email links

bar top - table top epoxy

HOMEPAGE

outdoor pebble deck epoxy

marine epoxies

epoxy floor links page

marine related links page

     

Also check out

these pages ==>

"Epoxy Guru"

help and info

Internet Epoxy Confederation

trusted epoxy sites

 

Email us for help or questions about your epoxy pour project or the Bar Top epoxy resins. Leave a number and the best time to call if you want a one on one conversation.

 

Best Bar Top - Table Top Epoxy Resin - Pourable - links - help
Best two part Clear DIY Epoxy Resin for your Bar Top Table Top - BIO CLEAR 810 epoxy
 

####

\

W3Counter