DIY Repairing / Creating Epoxy/Stone Deck/Patio Floor Surfaces - Help
"When the Stones Break Loose"

PEBBLE DECK-FLOOR Systems appear under many different names:

Riverstone (tm), Chattahoochee Stone (tm), etc.


Pebble Floor Deck Epoxy - Repair Recoat Reseal Options - Help

DIY Resealing, Rebonding, Creating epoxy stone patio surfaces - Riverstone Chattahoochee Stone



Basics - pebble stone epoxy getting started guide

Stone epoxy decks - issues and warnings?

resealing a stone deck with Basic No Blush epoxy - user reviews

Best weather to reseal your stone deck

How to create a pebble stone deck surface

Where to buy pebble deck epoxy resin


"Paul, you have outstanding products. Every product has out performed the highly advertised units I purchased elsewhere for past projects. Thank you."  (Dick - email 11/10/13)

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Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Selling epoxies since 1994

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"Professionals helping Professionals since 1994"



keywords = clear pebble stone epoxy





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resealed stone deck with epoxy

stone walkway resealed

with Basic No Blush epoxy

Packaged under a lot of different names (Riverstone (tm), Chattahoochee Stone (tm), etc.) , there are many flavors of epoxy and stone slurries that are applied over concrete surfaces to form an attractive and uniform new surface. These systems are generally used on patios, porches, around swimming pools (visit our swimming pool repair page for products/notes in and around pools), and along walkways. After a period of time (a few years) the epoxy ‘glue' begins to breakdown, primarily due to sun (UV) exposure and the stones break loose. The standard fix is a new coating of epoxy over the surface every few years (usually every 2 - 5 years).

The problem will always exist because of UV damage to any/all epoxies, however it is probably made worse by the methods and products used by the original installer/applicator. The ideal application would consist of a high quality epoxy (with little or no solvents), and smallish stones (more surface contact/glue points). After the slurry is applied and allowed to cure (harden) - an additional top coating of epoxy should be applied because much of the epoxy in the original slurry would have flowed away from the surface grains and pooled uselessly along the bottom of the slurry mixture. Next a UV resistant coating should be applied on top of everything to help protect the epoxy from UV sun damage. I doubt few, if any, installer do all these things because of the extra cost. (our 2 part acrylic poly UV plus is sometimes put over the epoxy coatings to keep them from yellowing. -
(epoxies yellow in UV - More on UV blockers)

In any event, when the stones break loose, it is time to ‘reseal' or ‘reglue' them. In many cases the original installer will return and recoat the surface with more epoxy, often for about one dollar per square foot. Even assuming more low quality epoxy will be used, this fix is probably well worth your consideration.

If the repair has become your job:

Use our least expensive epoxy (Basic No Blush) and our special slit-foam roller ($6.50) to apply a new topcoat of epoxy to the stones. Find it in our catalog - click here

stone deck resurfacing epoxy resin

Industrial Floor Epoxy Paint - Seamless Garage Epoxy Coating


Coverage rates will very greatly depending upon stone size, condition of the surface and personal technique, never-the-less we estimate 200-225 square feet of recoat coverage per 1.5 gallon kit of epoxy based upon user feedback. Note that this is a very common number but we also get folks saying they only got 150 sf per kit, and others insisting they got over 300 sf. Still, 80% of people seem to like the 200-225 sf figure.


The epoxy will yellow in sunlight (starts out clear). Your stones are probably golden in color - this is most likely actually white stones covered with sun yellowed epoxy.

Pool chemical contamination on your stones can sometimes turn the epoxy a bright yellow or white. Even hosing/washing etc. of the stones always seems to miss places, so yellow chemical stains can become an issue.

Also and more commonly, rain, water splashes, bird pee, or dew on still liquid or tacky epoxy (ay 0-18 hours after application) can result in a white 'stain' that will not go away. It is either a waxy white film that forms on the surface (blush - but being a no blush epoxy this is rare) or more commonly little water caused indents on the smooth epoxy surface that now reflects the light making it appear white. Try a bit of clear nail polish over these white spots. Very likely it will fill in the 'dents' and the surface will (maybe) return to clear. (I have no way to test this). If so, the fix is a bit more epoxy over those spots.

While this spotting is often not an issue (only comes up once or twice a year), we did have an unhappy customer that had this problem again and again. He contacted other 'experts' and reported back to us: "One stone manufacturer that I did speak with felt that there may be water coming up from underneath the pebble stone and this was causing the white spots to develop but didn't know of any remedy for it." This would explain a lot. Picture a plastic sheet (the epoxy) over humid ground as the sun warms the air. Water will form (condense) on the bottom of the plastic. This would cause the spots on the new epoxy. It is obviously best to have plastic under the stones and/or have it ground REALLY dry before epoxy coating. In other words, a few dry days are needed after it rains (wetting the ground under the stones) to get the ground under the stones completely dry.

Note that we are not responsible and have no control over this sometimes white spotting. It is not the product's fault or refundable issue. There is a legal disclaimer to this affect in our legal notices - www.epoxyproducts.com/legal.html.



We do have a SLOWER THICKER SUMMER CURING AGENT but it is not usually recommended for recoating pebble stone surfaces. The Summer Curing Agent version is only for temps over about 85 or 90 degrees. That is too hot for most people to work hard under direct sun. We recommend coating when the temps are in the 70s using the Regular Curing Agent, which often means recoating in the spring or fall rather than in the worst of summer.

To extend pot life for the epoxy keep in cool (in the shade) and even consider placing the mixed epoxy into an ice bath so that the mixed epoxy temperature is at about 65-75 degrees. This alone could double your working time which would be very short (maybe just a few minutes) in warm weather. Adding a bit of solvent (say 10 - 15%% by volume to the mixed epoxy) will also extend pot life.

If the Summer Curing Agent is used in cooler temps, 60's, 70's, low 80's, it will take a long time to cure. This can be a problem because if rain/dew/moisture/pool splash/bird pee/condensation gets on the epoxy (from above or below) just as the epoxy is starting to set up/harden, it will turn the epoxy white and there is no fix for this. This is mentioned in more detail above. Best rule of thumb is not to reseal if it has rained a day or two before or after you coat, and not if dew is an issue in your area at night.

One of our 'regular' customers who reseals his stones every few years, has reported that the hot weather curing agent version did not hold up as well (perhaps 2 or 3 years instead of 3 or 4) as the regular curing agent version. It is only one report, so other factors might be in play, but we pass it along (imagine if all vendors passed along possible negative info!).

Quick Purchase this product at our simplified www.epoxyUSA.com site

Customer feedback - pebble stone resealing - Basic No Blush Epoxy  customer reviews

Basic No Blush/epoxy pebble stone surface around swimming pool/recoat

(7/31/02) "Job went well for a do-it-yourselfer. Coverage was much higher than directions - covered 600 square feet with a little less than 3 gallons. Mixed 1.5 gallons per batch. First batch exothermed and cured in the paint pan in about 30 minutes. Air temperature was 74 degrees F and in the shade." - John K.

(6/2006) "Just finished using your No Blush Epoxy on our stone/pebble pool deck. Used four 1.5 gallon kits for about 800 sq. feet. The rollers you sell for this are the way to go. I used 3 for this job and should have ordered a 4th to be safe. Power mixed 1.5 gallons at a time and used an oversized paint roller an(1 gallon) and a standard size one. With 2 people we were done in 11/2 hours. The weather was overcast and 62 degrees and had not trouble at all. Looks great and hope to get 3 or 4 years out of it here in Ohio. The stone was laid 3 years ago and am interested to see the comparison. Great product."
Kevin D


(5/2010) "Wanted to let you know how pleased we are with the No Blush (summer version). Just finished doing our pebble pool deck and it came out great. The summer version gave us more time to roll on the product and not feel rushed. I highly recommend the split rollers. Our deck is around 850 sq. ft. ; we used 4 of the 1.5 gallon kits and 3 of the split rollers The split rollers worked great, just make sure that you keep them wet and don't over roll the stone so that the roller has little to no epoxy on it. It took us around 2 hours including power blowing the deck surface. The temperature was around 75.

Really a simple project if you plan ahead. Used a 3 gallon plastic bucket to mix the batch using a battery powered drill and mixing device attached. Clean-up was easy. We used old plastic bags to take the roller off and dispose of them.

By the way, the quotes to do our deck (825 sq. ft) ranged between $850 to $1200. Also they all were using standard rollers for epoxy and not the foam split rollers you sell. The amount of epoxy used by the contractors to recoat was only 2 to 3 gallons versus the four of the 1.5 gallon kits you sell. People need to be sure if they have it done there is enough epoxy being used by the contractors to settle into the gaps with the stone to get a good sealing.

(VENDOR NOTE: Also the epoxy needs to be the right thickness. Not too thin: you use less epoxy but it doesn't seal the gaps --- Not too thick: not enough coverage for the price

Great product and will continue to make use of your products in the future."

Kevin D .


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This current page is all about:


Pebble Floor Deck Epoxy - Repair Recoat Reseal Options - Help

DIY Resealing, Rebonding, Creating epoxy stone patio surfaces - Riverstone Chattahoochee Stone


(5/20012) Paul,

A few years ago I used you Basic No-Blush 2 epoxy on my DIY epoxy pebble stone pool deck. However, when I look at your web site now I only find Basic No-Blush (without the 2 on the end). Has the product changed? Should I now use the Basic No-Blush? Do you have another product that is even better for recoating epoxy stone decks/patios? I need to recoat now so I will be needing to place an order pretty soon. (SAME PRODUCT - WE JUST DROPPED THE 2)

As best as I can recall, one coat was all that is needed for recoating. Is this correct? (YES)

I doubt that you will remember this far back, but in 2005 you and I have several email exchanges about white areas showing up after proper application and drying of your product. There was absolutely no problem with your product as the problem seemed to derive from the moisture coming up under the epoxy from what must be the lack of satisfactory vapor barrier under the slab. Even though that happened and will probably happen again I found your product to be the best thing that I can use.


(5/2012) Paul,

Finished recoating the pool deck and once again it looks great. Since we cover our pool for the winter here in Ohio I have to power wash the pebble deck under the cover. It seems to always have a white film on it which does come off with the power wash. Once again the foam rollers that you sell are the way to go. We use about 4 of the 1.5 gal kits of your Basic-No Blush and it covers 825 sq. ft.

Once again thanks and best wishes to you and your company.

Kevin D

TEMPERATURE WARNING - Now available in three versions (standard, 'cold weather-winter' (fast), and 'hot weather-summer (slow)) - same low price for each! Our hot weather curing agent is extra thick to 'fix' the normal thinning of the epoxy resin as temperatures increase. So, may be too thick if stored/used at temperatures below about 85 degrees. Unlike the standard curing agent, which is clear in color, the Summer version is amber colored (not that noticeable when applied but certainly amber in the bucket). The winter version is just slightly yellowish in color.

One of our 'regular' customers who reseals his stones every few years, has reported that the hot weather curing agent version did not hold up as well (perhaps 2 or 3 years instead of 3 or 4) as the regular curing agent version. It is only one report, so other factors might be in play, but we pass it along (imagine if all vendors passed along possible negative info!).

Creating - Making Your Own (DIY) Epoxy

Riverstone (tm) - Chattahoochee Stone (tm)

 - Pebble/Stone Deck/Surface


It's not that difficult to make your own epoxy - stone surface. The most difficult part is finding the small pebble stone. Having to purchase 3 tons of stone and shipping it across the country will probably nix the entire project. If you can get around 'stone availability' issue, you're home free.

STONE SOURCE: TRY ARKANSAS DECORATIVE STONE (www.arkansasdecorativestonellc.com). Pls tell them you found them via Progressive Epoxy Polymers!

Usually the epoxy-stone surface is applied as a thin topcoat over a poured concrete surface. It is generally applied as thin as possible. You want to cover the surface with a uniform layer of pebble stone, but not much thicker. The smaller the stones the, easier and more attractive the end result will be.

OK - here's how to do it:

Mix up epoxy and have the stone ready. Working time will be about 30-45 minutes per batch of epoxy. Use our Basic No Blush epoxy. Roll on a coat of epoxy on the concrete (1.5 oz of epoxy per square foot).

Immediately begin applying the stone - epoxy slurry over the epoxy primer coat. The slurry will consist of 2.5 oz of epoxy and approx. 1.85 pounds of pebbles per square foot.

Evenly spread the epoxy - smooth using a trowel. Wiping down the trowel with our Trowel Aid cleaner will keep the epoxy-stone slurry from sticking to the trowel (the Trowel Aid product is a helpful, but not necessary, product).

Let the epoxy-stone surface harden overnight or longer.

It is strongly suggested you apply a topcoat of more epoxy to prolong the life of the surface. Follow the directions above for 'repair'. You will use approx. 1.5 oz of epoxy per square foot and we suggest you use our extra thick, slotted foam roller.

Almost no one puts a UV blocker over the epoxy to keep it from UV yellowing, but if you wanted to we do have a 2 part clear polyurethane with lots of UV blockers in it (very hard to find clear coats with UV blockers) called Acrylic Poly UV Plus. This will keep the surface shiny much longer and will, to a small degree, protect the epoxy and provide additional 'gluing' between the pebbles. Figure on about 2.5 oz of clear acrylic per square foot, applied with an ordinary paint roller (this is an approx. figure, not based on user feedback).


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Your Next Step - purchase some Basic No Blush epoxy to test/evaluate


Option 1: go to our contact page and call us (10:30-3 PM mon-thur EST). Ask for Paul,

and we can talk about  your resealing project.


Also consider ordering a 3 quart 'test' kit of Basic No Blush epoxy and 1 special epoxy split roller

enough to recoat / reseal about 75-100 sf of pebble stone deck.


If you like the results call back and order the standard 1.5 gal units

of Basic No Blush epoxy for your pebble deck.


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Pebble Floor Deck Epoxy - Repair Recoat Reseal Options - Help

DIY Resealing, Rebonding, Creating epoxy stone patio surfaces - Riverstone Chattahoochee Stone