The Clear Epoxy Resin - Marine Epoxy Resin -

Table Bar Top Epoxy Resin Page

Professional grade clear epoxy resin - Low Viscosity - Marine - Bar Top


clear epoxy table top


There are lots of reasons for putting a clear coat finish over surfaces and even more clear coat products to select from. Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. offers several options, from epoxies to polyurethanes, to acrylics. Let's look at these options and hopefully determine which is best suited for your needs.



Clear Table Top Epoxy Resin - Marine and Low Viscosity epoxies

Professional grade clear epoxy resin - Low Viscosity - Marine - Bar Top


Your Host and Tour Guide:

Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

Board member: Friends of the Suncook River - 501(c)(3) non profit ----- Founder: Friday Night Paddlers .

"Professionals helping Professionals since 1994"







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FYI: catalog pages are blue (marine) or yellow (home/indust), info pages are green, product pages are purple, core pages are gray

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NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings, etc. are required reading before using website, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms.

CLICK HERE ( to access these terms.

MEMBER:  Internet Epoxy Confederation (IEC - CLICK HERE TO VISIT) -- "Where Professionalism Still Matters"

We've been selling epoxy - marine epoxy (boat building - wood / fiberglass repair) industrial coatings - garage paint -

underwater epoxies - thick putties - tabletop resins and supplies since the early 1990's

email help swim pool repair pebble decks data/msds sheets
boat epoxies floor epoxies rot repair basement leaks
alum. paint underwater epoxy home page epoxy guru
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There are lots of reasons for putting a clear coat finish over surfaces and even more clear coat products to select from. Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. offers several options, from epoxies to polyurethanes, to acrylics. Let's look at these options and hopefully determine which is best suited for your needs.

Clear epoxies are often used as a sealer and topcoat over decorative epoxy - colored sand (or vinyl chip) flooring systems. They also find their way on to table and bar tops and over fine woods (for that shiny - glassy look). The problem is that there is really no such thing as a stable clear epoxy. They soon turn an unattractive yellow and often get cloudy besides. They certainly lose their shiny very quickly too. All this is a result of exposure to the sun's UV radiation (
More on UV blockers). The best solution is to keep your clear epoxy out of direct sun and it will stay clear. Unfortunately, that's often not possible.

So why even mess with clear epoxy resins? Floor applicators like them because the typical solvent-free clear epoxy is basically odorless - an important factor in large indoor areas. Epoxies also provide good sealing and waterproof properties, as well as chemical resistance and when new and shiny they look great.




This can happen with your clear epoxy. Learn more. You will not find this info on any other epoxy web site. Scroll down to the bottom of this page for this important information.


Getting the ultimate - longest lasting clear finish for your boat or furniture - results of a 1.5 year test

best option for outdoors


Minwax (tm) oil stain - left to dry for 2 weeks - 2 coats ESP 155 epoxy sealer and primer - 4 coats of India Spar Varnish (note ESP 155 and Varnish not for sale in California)


For about a year and a half I've been testing various urethanes, varnishes etc. to discover which will work best at sealing and maintaining its shine outside. My test platform was a wood slotted park bench I owned. My test zones where the right and left halves of the seat slots and the left and right half of the backrest - about 12 different ‘zones'. The bench was coated and left outside in New Hampshire for 2 summers and 1 winter (buried under the snow). The coatings consisted of our traditional spar varnish (we sell it as India Spar Varnish) , a clear polyurethane from Home Depot, our clear watery Low V epoxy, our 2 part (LPU) clear polyurethane with UV blockers and absorbers. Multiple coats of each were used and multiple products on each slot (except on the backrest where varnish was used on one side and poly on the other).

The absolute worst product was the Home Depot one part polyurethane. It failed and peeled miserably.

The best products were the epoxy and the varnish and the 2 part clear polyurethane (our Acrylic Poly UV Plus). For years we have been telling folks that vanish over clear epoxy was a winning combination. I learned that from maintaining the brightwork on a sailboat located on Galveston Bay for 10 years. Seal the wood with the epoxy and then protect the epoxy with varnish. This test proved how good that system works. The half slot still looked bright, shiny and new. The slot with the epoxy, varnish and the 2 part clear poly looked just as good. I suspect over time (another year or two) his one would have been the winner as the 2 part poly is tougher than the varnish and should hold up better over time. The other combination of coatings all feel someplace in-between. All products really like having an epoxy base. The water- based product lost its shine and just didn't hold up as well as the other products (which matches my experiences with most other water based coatings).

So if I were going to clear coat a big wooden sailboat mast that wasn't going to get any additional TLC for a few years, how would I coat it?

1) one or more coats of our solvent thinned clear epoxy primer (ESP 155). The solvents help seal the wood and penetrate below the surface. This is important as I have found the coatings (even epoxies) begin to fail on edges and corners where air and moisture can get under the coatings. Anyway, begin by sealing with a solvent thinned epoxy primer.

2) I would then add 2 or 3 coats of our watery, clear, solvent free epoxy called Low V. This product could be solvent thinned too and used in place of the solvent based epoxy primer (ESP 155) mentioned above, but I would personally rather use the ESP 155 as I suspect it would penetrate better. The Low V epoxy in this step provides a serious barrier coat to the wood and adds film thickness. Film thickness is a good thing, it keeps scratches and nicks away from the wood.

3) Next would be 3 or 4 coats of varnish. I have never noticed a difference between marine varnish, spar varnish, or ‘varnish' from the hardware store (albeit I haven't done any tests). The varnish protects the epoxy and gives the surface a ‘warm' look and feel. It also adds more film thickness.

4) You could stop here and be very happy with the results for perhaps several years. However, I would suggest 2 or 3 coats of our 2 part clear poly on top of the varnish. The UV blockers and absorbers will protect all the coatings below it. The toughness of the poly should also protect the softer varnish under it. My tests show good bonding with the varnish (probably because of the large amounts of strong solvents in the 2 part polys, they chemically etch into the varnish, offering both a mechanical and chemical bond). When applied just over the epoxy, there was a bit of whiteness present, not the case when applied over the varnish (probably more ‘fusing' between the softer varnish and the 2 part poly that provided a better "air/moisture" seal. Note that the 2 part poly layers are very thin, not much protective additional film thickness.

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from our  large Primary web store


Hello Paul  --  Sending photos of the shower my wife Regina and I designed. We wanted the shower floor to convey a beach feeling. To achieve the effect, white cement was used and tiny sea shells were pressed into the surface. After the concrete cured I took your advice on which epoxy to use to encapsulate the sea shells (Basic No Blush).

It was a bit tricky to keep the epoxy from all flowing into the drain. :-)

After brushing on three coats I used a hole saw to cut thru the Basic No Blush epoxy that had collected over painters tape covering the drain. Heeding your warning that wet epoxy is dangerously slick, I finished the job with a top coat of acrylic sealer with a glass dust nonslip additive. The results are beautiful and safe.

Thanks for the advise and great epoxy product.  --  Best Regards -- Mike


Learn all about spar varnish -

So remember, varnish over epoxy. Always. Our two part clear poly is unique because of its UV blockers and absorbers and not available any place else. It should serve as a good, long lasting protective coating for the varnish.

India spar varnish

Doug: I have your India Spar Varnish on my cedar strip

canoe and it looks great! Inside photo of the canoe attached."


Comparing different clear epoxies ---  CLICK HERE


(a warning)


UV blockers/absorbers CANNOT be added to cross-linking thermo-set resin systems like epoxies (they can be added to 2 part polyurethanes). Anyone that tells you they have a UV resistant epoxy or a non yellowing epoxy is either ignorant or lying to you. You decide if you want to do business with dishonest companies/individuals.


I'll wager you won't find a Better Business Bureau (BBB) membership logo on their web site (but you will find it proudly displayed here on this site). Nor will you see that person's name or professional coatings/resins credentials and educational background. Pick your online vendors carefully. Avoid overly slick and fluffy sites.


 Progressive Epoxy Polymers Inc., Floor Coatings  EpoxyPolyurethane, Pittsfield, NH



WARNING: Don't buy epoxy from any source  that doesn't have batch numbers or Date of Manufacture stamped on to  their products labels.. Like all primary source manufacturers and vendors, we track each each unit with a batch number or manufacturing date hand added to each container label. It is a labor intensive, hands-on process that marketing based companies and firms that just want to push product and take your money don't do. Most (maybe all) of out competitors don't track or provide this information. They don't know it, or they don't want to let you know how old their product is. Only buy your epoxy chemicals from vendors that label their epoxies with actual batch numbers or Date of Manufacture. Call before ordering and ask if that information will be on all containers shipped out. 

Clear Products offered by Progressive Epoxy Polymers

Low V epoxy is our recommended epoxy for sealing or as a penetrating epoxy when solvent is added. Clear, with just a trace of amber color. A very popular, general purpose, low viscosity, clear epoxy. Will bond to damp surfaces. Fast 'time to hard'. Also used as a primer on porous surfaces and under polyurethanes.


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low v sealing epoxy

 action shot with IJN Kongo, IJN Nagato and DKM Bismark battling

three of over 50 model war ships sealed with Low V epoxy



Mix really well - with parts A and B so thin and clear it is very easy to mix poorly and have uneven mixing within the same batch. This will produce tacky sections that never get completely hard and tack free.

Note: We have seen this product fisheye on old wood surfaces that have been 'bleached' and then stained. The oils in the stain or 'teak oil' (perhaps something in the wood bleach, I don't know) seem to remain in the wood despite solvent washing, sanding etc. Old teak trim is a good example. We've seen Low V fisheye on old teak being refinished that seemed to be 'weathered down to just wood'. I think the fix would be (not tested) to 'seal' the wood from the epoxy, say with a coat of solvent thinned varnish which would not be as affected by residual oils.

EMAIL (FEB 06): Hello:

I just bought some of your Low V epoxy and it is superior in every way to the system 3 products I (formerly) used, their clear coat and mirror coat.

Less money, better adhesion, better flow, better release of trapped gas, clarity, speed of cure, and machineability. It's like night and day, and their product is nothing to laugh at!

Great Product, I will buy *whatever* I need from you in the future.....


Clear Bio-Clear 810 (solvent free epoxy) - - very similar to our Low V epoxy with very similar viscosity. A cycloaliphatic epoxy. Crystal clear, with low yellowing. Slightly longer pot life than Low V, but much longer 'gummy' (B Stage cure) cure period which results in very low heat release (exotherm) during cure (generally a good thing).  Recommended for exterior exposures where yellowing is a concern, over broadcast floor systems, or in confined spaces were exotherm reaction during initial cure is a concern (such as epoxy injection into a weakened deck core).

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Our Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy Resin, along with our Bio Clear 810 clear bar top epoxy resin are our two most clear epoxies. Note that all epoxies turn yellow in sunlight and even just over time.

THIS PRODUCT (Bio Clear 810)  CANNOT BE BRUSHED/ROLLED ON AS A PAINT OR SEALER COAT. IT WILL 'dimple', 'creep', 'crawl' (whatever you want to call it) IF USED IN THIS MANNER. Use with fiberglass cloth, over broadcast non-slip surfaces, and with all epoxy thickeners and fillers. Especially recommended for mixing with our copper powder. It also works great as a poured, thick surface (i.e. table tops, etc. due to its low yellowing and clarity. This epoxy does maintain a certain degree of flex. This is a blushing (amine blush) epoxy. Sold in 3 gal kits and 15 gallon 'commercial' units.


The same additives  that eliminates nearly all the bubbles has a downside. If you apply Bio Clear too thin (say more than  6 - 10 square feet per gallon), it may 'fisheye', "crater", "alligator hide' etc. This is not a product you brush on like paint or sealer. If you are looking for that kind of epoxy, call us for other epoxy options at: 603 435 7199


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We really appreciate you visiting PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC. and our web site: EPOXYPRODUCTS.COM.  Take advantage of the CONTACT links on this page to ask questions about our products and/or your projects. You can stay in touch with us via our NEWSLETTER (link on our contact page) which is emailed  every 6-8 weeks.

This current page is all about:


Clear Table Top Epoxy Resin - Marine and Low Viscosity epoxies

Professional grade clear epoxy resin - Low Viscosity - Marine - Bar Top

Epoxy Clear Top Resin™ Epoxy: For clear coat sealing of epoxy/paint chip floors and for POUR ON (and let it drip over the side Bar Tops and Table Tops) Very low yellowing - pour, brush or roll on.

Note that the Part A is not crystal clear but a bit amber/honey (unlike the other products). However, it looks very clear when only 1/8  or 1/4 inch thick.

  find in catalog.

ESP 155™ a thin, solvent based epoxy (about 24% solvent). Often used as a sealer or penetrating epoxy (compares with the industry major product which is 69% solvent!). Not for sale in Southern Calif.  Often used under paints and varnish as a primer/sealer or tie coat. Quick Buy -- ESP 155(tm) EPOXY -- Now

Acrylic Poly UV Plus
this is our gloss, (also available in satin)  clear two part acrylic polyurethane coating. Surprisingly most clear coatings have very little UV blockers added to them. This is an exception (just like auto clear coat, which is also an acrylic poly) - it has max UV blockers, so will greatly reduce or eliminate epoxy yellowing. (More on UV blockers). Cannot be sold in Southern California. More on 2 part polys ( Sold by the Gallon.


Stopping UV damage and UV yellowing  ----------------    Josie Lewis (6/2010) wrote:

Hi Paul: I recently purchased some clear epoxy  and Acrylic Poly UV Plus from your company. I have access to a UV chamber which simulates high altitude direct UV exposure. I thought you might be interested in my findings. I used a Masonite panel painted white and then coated with the epoxy. On half of the epoxy coated panel, I brushed on one coat of UV Poly and put it in the chamber for 644 hours at 50 C (the heat accelerates the exposure). Attached is a picture of the results. The masonite cracked a bit and separated due to a bit of wetness in the wood (unrelated to the resin). The epoxy  ambered dramatically within about 50 hours. After 644 hours, the UV Poly showed a slight bit of ambering from the original control but it is marginal at worst. The technician who ran the test said if it isn't yellow at 644 hours it is basically indestructible. I also tested several other 2-part resin products with the UV Poly and had the same result. You have a great product. I now feel secure knowing that my resin art, protected with the Poly UV Plus, will be archival and protected for long years. I will be ordering more soon!

Best, Josie (6/2010) Order Acrylic Poly UV plus - cannot be sold in Calif. - and all our other products at our King Cart Storefront. Acrylic poly UV Plus is in the non-epoxy section.




This product is very popular with golf courses and country clubs. they use it annually on their Tees and signage for that fresh, new, glossy shine.

QUESTIONS?  CALL 603 435 7199


Polyester Poly
 is our gloss, clear two part polyester polyurethane. The Polyester Polyurethanes/Urethanes are the toughest and most chemical resistant of the 2 part LPU coatings. Unlike the Acrylic Poly UV Plus product, this one doesn't have special UV blocking additives.  Cannot be sold in Southern California. More on 2 part polys ( Sold by the Gallon.

UV Blocker - Inhibitor / Cyrstalac/CrabCoat UV BLOCKER - Cannot be sold in Southern. CALIFORNIA Protect your epoxy surfaces, including bar tops, table tops, and clear epoxy repairs from turning yellow for UV exposure. It also works on clear plastic outdoor fixtures like outdoor thermometer clear plastic covers or plastic bird feeders. It provides a clear waterproof and sealing, protective top layer. The product is water borne (but not water-based), providing the best features of water and solvent based products. It has easy water clean-up and low odor but with the smooth flow and even coating thickness associated with solvent based coatings. This product is much more user friendly to apply and friendly to use on many plastic/acrylic surfaces than our tougher, LPU coating and UV protector - Acrylic Poly UV Plus. Sold by the Pint.

Basic No Blush epoxy  resin system is also very clear and has a medium viscosity. It has normal epoxy yellowing. OUR BEST SELLING PRODUCT BY FAR! PEOPLE BUY IT, TRY IT, AND COME BACK FOR MORE!

clear epoxy resin


marine epoxy

Why Basic No Blush epoxy is the BEST in its class:

1. A formulated blended resin system (not repackaged raw chemicals)

2) Uses NON BLUSHING curing agent for blush free results

3) not too thick, not too thin, not too brittle

4) the only marine epoxy with bubble breakers for superior flaw free finishes

5) the only epoxy adduct marine epoxy for superior properties

6) strong user support / feedback

7) 24/7 support email



air shippable     cycloaliphatic system  
no nonyl phenol     epoxy adduct system xx
multi curing agents xx   bulk pricing xx
solvent free xx   no Calif. sales  
2 part epoxy xx   2 part poly  
apply underwater     bubble breakers xx
favorite(s) product list xx   data sheets xx
PACKING - jugs/bottles xx   PACKING - cans xx
find in non marine cat xx   find in marine catalog xx
PRICES/ind/commercial xx   PRICES/marine section xx
BUY online

simple store

    BUY online

primary store

home page xx   contact page xx


Protecting clear epoxies with marine spar varnish

Those show-piece wood strip canoes and kayaks, and sometimes the varnished bright work wood trim on yachts are sealed or built with any of the clear epoxies mentioned above. A few coats of varnish (pretty much any kind of varnish works) over the epoxy will protect the epoxy from UV damage. The epoxy seals the wood better and longer than the varnish, while the varnish protects the wood and bonds long term better to the hard epoxy than it does to the porous wood - a great win-win combination. I've tried all the other UV protecting topcoats over clear epoxy and for that mirror yacht gloss nothing works as well as varnish. Unfortunately, traditional varnish is being phased out. Find out why -
Click Here.

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Our Premium No Blush  (tm) epoxy is similar to the Basic No Blush but uses an amber non-hazmat curing agent that allows us to send it overseas by air....

premium no blush marine epoxy

custom spear gun with Premium No Blush protective finish

Hi Paul,

Hope this finds you well... Here are some pics. Let me know what you think.

In terms of practical testing your Premium No Blush Epoxy in sea is just stood against very harsh conditions and still going on very strong. Unlike W@@T Sys@@m did not blush at all...and actually the yellowish color addition makes the guns even nicer...reacting with teak wood to a golden dark brown color...beat that!

Because of your epoxy, I had to recall most of the guns (coated with W@@T Sys@@m) sold locally and recoat them with your epoxy...just couldn't handle them coated any other way.

Best regards, Ihab - Egypt - Custom Spear Gun manufacturer. 

Another customer of ours (5/2013) uses the Premium No blush on parts of custom guitars that he makes. He also reports a superior finish with this epoxy compared to the finishes he gets with other epoxies.


premium no blush marine epoxy

"This is an electric 12 string guitar, styled after the famous Fender Stratocaster. It was stained with regular commercial kona stain, then sealed with 5 ounces of Premium No Blush, thinned slightly with 1 ounce of acetone mixed into the base before adding the curing agent. The first coat was wiped on with microfiber cloth. A second coat was done 24 hours later with a similar mixture, but with the microfiber cloth already wet with acetone. The result was rock hard and glass smooth. It was covered with two coats of wipe-on polyurethane, and polished with carnuba wax. I did this because I was so pleased with the kona stain that I wanted something special to help protect it. Paul's No Blush was the right choice, just as I expected it would be."


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Available in clear gloss only UV Blocking Products offered by Progressive Epoxy Polymers

1) Acrylic Poly UV Plus - a two part LPU clear gloss coating with max UV protection. LPU coatings are very tough. Similar to Auto Clear Coat. Not a user friendly coating. Best applied by spray, or "roll and tip" methods on most applications. Roller applied on floors. Often used to keep epoxy floors from yellowing. Sold in gallon units. High solvent levels. Not for sale in Southern California. Apply two coats.

2) UV Blocker - Inhibitor /Crysta-Lac /Crab Coat - a water borne (not water based) product that combines the best properties of water based and solvent based clear gloss products. Easy to apply with brush. Often used for epoxy bar tops and outside yard objects. Sold by the pint. Not for sale in Southern California. Apply two coats.

Find both in our marine catalog -
Find both in our industrial catalog -

Six Different Clear Epoxies -- Comparisons


(As a professional coatings company we offer a range of clear epoxies with unique properties and applications. This is a very different approach than marketing companies that only offer one product with one application per web site and are far removed from the manufacture and testing of their resold resin)


ESP 155 - solvent based, thin, sealing epoxy often used on wood, concrete and fiberglass. The Part B ranges from clear to dark red. Not for sale in California. Yellows quickly. Commonly used as a sealer and primer under marine spar varnished (i.e. India Spar Varnish - not for sale in California) surfaces, such as bar tops, outdoor furniture and  bright-work on boats/yachts. Epoxy and Spar Varnish is a win-win combination. The varnish provides UV protection and a high gloss easily maintained surface and the epoxy provides a stable base for the varnish. For a thicker epoxy base, use Low V epoxy or Basic No Blush epoxy (listed below) under the varnish. Packaged in 2 quart kits (1 to1 mix ratio).

LOW V - A solvent free, low viscosity epoxy often used as sealer or a easily rollable/brushable base on wood bars, cement floors etc. Also used to 're-bond' delaminated damp boat decks with their fiberglass 'skin'. Popular for wood rot repair too as it is thin (to soak in) odorless, and will bond to wet or damp surfaces. It is slightly amber and will yellow quicker than most epoxies. It was originally designed for concrete crack injection. Can be used under a varnish topcoat, giving a thicker epoxy base than the solvent based ESP 155. Can be allowed to flow over the edges on table and bar tops (but it is thin). Comes in 48 oz and 1.5 gal units. (2 to 2 mix ratio).


BIO CLEAR 810 - A solvent free clear epoxy, non brittle epoxy used exclusively for poured on table and bar tops. Very low levels of epoxy yellowing and contains bubble breakers. It requires being poured on at 1/4 inch layers which requires a edge or dam all the way around the surface to prevent it from simply draining onto the floor. If applied too thin it will fisheye due to the surface tension reducing bubble breaker additives. It is a favorite of professional poured on epoxy experts.  It has a very slight amber tint. Comes in 48 oz 1.5 gallon and 3 gallon kits (2 to 1 mix ratio).


BIO CLEAR 810 xx    EMAIL   US xx
air shippable     cycloaliphatic system xx
no nonyl phenol xx   epoxy adduct system  
multi curing agents     bulk pricing  
solvent free xx   no Calif. sales  
2 part epoxy xx   2 part poly  
apply underwater     bubble breakers xx
favorite(s) product list     data sheets xx
PACKING - jugs/bottles xx   PACKING - cans xx
find in non marine cat xx   find in marine catalog  
PRICES/ind/commercial xx   PRICES/marine section  
BUY online

simple store

    BUY online

primary store

home page xx   contact page xx


BASIC NO BLUSH -  one of our most popular epoxies and one of the most clear epoxies available. It has normal or slightly slow epoxy yellowing. It is commonly used for boat building or boat repair  as well as resealing or creating pebble deck surfaces (common around pools and patios in Florida and other warm states. Also used to fill knot holes and cracks in wooden slabs used for bars and tables (sometimes tinted black when filling cracks and knot holes). Forms a hard, fairly brittle surface that handles outdoor weather very well (excluding normal UV yellowing and UV breakdown). Also used on bar and table top surfaces under varnish. Being semi thick it will not lay completely level in temperatures under about 75 degrees. It does contain bubble breakers (which is why the Part A appears slightly cloudy in its container. For table and bar tops use the standard temperature curing agent. For other applications use the low temperature (down to about freezing) winter curing agent. For hot weather (upper 80s and 90s) use the slower summer curing agent. The special summer and winter curing agents are only available for this one epoxy. Comes in 3 quart and 1.5 gallon kits (2 to 1 mix ratio).


EPOXY CLEAR TOP RESIN - Our thickest epoxy (just slightly thicker than the Basic No Blush). Not quite as brittle as the basic no blush. Low, slow yellowing although the product does have a very light greenish tint when applied over snowy white surfaces. Used for pour on bar tops and table tops and can be allowed to drip over the sides. Part A is sort of amber colored and very thick (needs about 75 degrees to work with) while the Part B is clear and watery. The differences in the viscosities of the Part A and Part B make it more difficult to mix but also makes it much more easy to tell when the two parts are well and evenly mixed. Comes in 1 gallon kits (3 to 1 mix ratio).


 Links:  Homepage ---- Bar top table top Homepage  --- data and MSDS  --- Buy epoxies  Section D - Clear Epoxies --  Buy varnish (cannot ship to Cal) Section E - Non Epoxies --- Contact Page




Add a warming tone to your clear epoxy, solvent based clear coat, or enhance your India Spar Varnish amber tone. Order our 4 ounce "Warm-Tone Dye Solution" additive - good for warming about a gallon of clear coat. Find it in our Marine Catalog/Section 8-Misc. --- Industrial/Home Catalog/Section I-Misc. ---- (It's in the MISC section of our 3rd party storefront when you order online).




Fisheyes (see picture) happen when working with clear epoxies. They don’t always happen, but they are not that rare although epoxy vendors tend to downplay the risk of fisheyes. Fisheye will form within about 10-20 minutes after the epoxy has been applied to surface.


Fisheyes are all about surface tension and often surface contamination of oils, waxes, silicones etc. Fisheyes  are much less common in pigmented epoxies and epoxies with fillers and binders which ‘hold the epoxy together’ and preventing fisheyes. Of course, adding fillers, pigments or binders results in an epoxy that is no longer clear.

Fisheyes can result when clear epoxies are applied too thin (often to slightly contaminated surfaces, but not necessarily) with surface stresses exceed the ability of the epoxy to ‘hold together." They are much more common on smooth glassy surfaces and rare on rough surfaces.







Thicker layers of clear epoxy are the answer to preventing most fisheyes. The Bio Clear 810 epoxy is so thin that it is recommended not to be applied in thicknesses of less then 1/4 inch thick (which requires and edge or dam around all edges). It is commonly used in professional bar top and table top applications.

When working with other ‘pour on’ epoxies, fisheyes tend to happen (if they are going to happen) when the epoxy is spread out or brushed out instead of just poured on and allowed to flow out on its own - resulting in a thicker layer).


Keep an eye on your "pour on" or brushed on clear epoxy for the first 30 minutes or so after application. If you see fisheyes forming you can generally ‘fx’ them by pouring more epoxy over the forming fisheye.

If your epoxy is already 'hard' when you notice the fisheyes, here are your options. If the fisheyes are caused by surface contamination then sanding down and/or adding more epoxy may not help - the still present contamination will once again cause more fisheyes in the new second coat of epoxy. A possible fix is to 'seal' the contaminated epoxy with a clear poly sealer and paint which MIGHT separate the contaminates from the the new epoxy to be applied over the poly sealer.

If the fisheyes are caused by minor surface contamination or just too thin of a layer of epoxy you can: 1) pour on more epoxy over the fisheyes and entire surface (but you will still see a slight dimple or depression over the old fisheye sites), 2) sand away the fisheyes and the entire surface and re-apply more epoxy.



A majority of fisheyes are caused by applying clear epoxies too thin on smooth surfaces. In one sense it is best to apply the epoxy as thick as possible, however, if it does fisheye the you will have a real mess to sand away or re-do. Best advice might be to apply a thin coat of epoxy in a small test spot. If it does fisheye, you can probably remove the still liquid epoxy with a solvent soaked rag. If the epoxy is already hard, the thin coat of epoxy in a small test area will not be that big of a deal to sand off. If it doesn't fisheye you can proceed with more epoxy at that thickness or thicker without worry.

Do a test. Brush on a thin coat of your clear epoxy on a 4 inch by 4 inch area. Watch it for about 20 minutes to see if it fisheyes. Whether it does or not, scrap off or remove with a solvent soaked rag. Now you know what to expect.

If you are into your Big Project and see fisheyes forming, adding more epoxy over them is your best fix. So... keep an eye on your clear epoxy application for about 20 - 30 minutes after you apply the epoxy and be on the lookout for developing  fisheyes.



Several high volume, core Favorite Products have a Quick Purchase Option. This option allows you to skip going to our Contact Page and our Storefront Primary Page and takes you directly to the storefront category section where this product is located for purchase. All legal terms, conditions and disclaimers still apply. To access this Quick Purchase Option, click on the product name. --- Basic No Blush 2 part marine epoxy resin --- Bio Clear 810 --- Wet Dry 700 --- Aluthane --- Fumed Silica (thickener and fishing aid) ---






basic no blush (tm)


corro coat FC 2100; NSP 120; water gard 300; coal tar ; CM 15; crack coat™


fumed silica; microsphere/balloons; poly fibers; copper; graphite; Teflon (tm); wood flour; EZ thick; rock flour


Section B FLOOR EPOXIES (regular and non-skid products), SEALERS, ACCESSORIES

water bond (water based); solvent free industrial floor epoxy; bio vee seal; water based floor epoxy, floor epoxy with grit; walnut shell; ground white rubber grit


wet/dry 700; splash zone; quick fix 2300, QR 2400 rubber epoxy


wet/dry 700; splash zone A-788, quick fix 2300; QR 2400 (tm) rubber epoxy

Section Four TWO PART EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)

corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; EZ Spray; epoxy primer; crack coat™


low V epoxy; basic no blush; ESP 155; Bio-Clear 810

Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS Aluthane (aluminum coating); LPU Marine


Aluthane moisture cured urethane; Acrylic Poly UV Plus and other 2 part polys ; Capt. Tolley's creeping crack sealer


walnut shell; ground white rubber



fumed silica; fiber fill; micro balloons/micro-spheres; graphite; Teflon (tm); copper powder; wood flour; EZ thick, rock flour


pipe wrap; fiberglass tape (cloth); Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure


short nap rollers; TA 661 (solvent free epoxy clean-up); 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors



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