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Your Host and Tour Guide:
Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers,
Inc.
Member: NACE (National Assoc. of
Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)
"Professionals helping Professionals"
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sold without restriction and available for private labeling) - click here
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Bio Vee --- molecular technology at work for you
A proprietary catalyzed Potassium formulation (not a silane or siloxane)
What Bio Vee Will Do For Your Concrete Surface
* Internally densify the concrete surface rendering it waterproof but breathable
* Make the concrete surface tougher and more resistant to breakdown
* Eliminate/reduce bacteria and mildew growth associated with damp, musty concrete (A DANGEROUS HEALTH PROBLEM!)
In short, it reacts with the natural lime in concrete to form a modified potassium hybrid in the concrete
voids thus increasing surface density and hardness, thereby reducing moisture permeability and porosity. Like Gor-Tex
(tm) it allows the concrete to ‘breathe' (2% vapor transmission) while preventing the migration of larger liquid
(water, gasoline, oil) particles.
USED BY ITSELF, IT WILL REDUCE, OR ELIMINATE, MOISTURE MIGRATION THROUGH CONCRETE FLOORS AND WELLS (THROUGH THE
CONCRETE ITSELF, NOT WHEN MIGRATION IS THROUGH CRACKS). IT IS USED ON CONCRETE THAT IS ALWAYS A BIT DAMP AND TO
END THE 'MUSTY' OR DAMP SMELL IN BASEMENTS, ETC. PERHAPS MORE IMPORTANTLY, BUT LESS OBVIOUS, IS THAT BY REDUCING
OR ELIMINATING MOISTURE MOVEMENT THROUGH THE CONCRETE IT INCREASES THE LIKELIHOOD OF A SUCCESSFUL PAINT OR COATING
JOB ON THE CONCRETE SURFACE (NOTE: THIS PRODUCT WORKS BELOW THE SURFACE OF THE CONCRETE, IT LEAVES NOTHING ON THE
SURFACE). THIS IS BECAUSE MANY COATING FAILURES ARE THE RESULT OF MOISTURE OR VAPOR PRESSURE BUILDING UP ON THE
UNDERSIDE OF COATINGS APPLIED TO CONCRETE.
BECAUSE OF THIS, BIO VEE SEAL IS ALSO A RECOMMENDED, BUT OPTIONAL, PRE-TREATMENT TO CONCRETE SURFACES THAT
WILL BE COATED WITH SOME SORT OF SURFACE COATING.
WILL SEAL UNCOATED/UNPAINTED STUCCO!
Also Works On Tile Grout! Order our 1 quart
bottle to seal you bathroom area!
Benefits
* Inexpensive
* One coat, easy to apply, application
* Penetrates - no surface layer or visible presence to interfere with future surface painting or other treatments
of the concrete
* Forms a chemically linked bond to the concrete subsurface that will not dissolve or wear out
* Improves the durability of the concrete without affecting surface texture
* Water based - contains no VOCs, easy water clean-up
What Bio Vee Will Not Do For Your Concrete Surface
* Fill and seal cracks and large voids
* Color or stain the concrete
* Leave any kind of surface coating or finish (Bio Vee soaks into the concrete and works below the surface)
* Reduce surface traction
Suggested Applications (see below for more details)
* Basement sealing
* Added protection under epoxy and other protective surface coatings
* Porch and patio mold and mildew prevention
* FERRO-CEMENT BOAT HULLS (note: Bio-Vee Seal is not listed in our marine/boating
catalog/web site. It is listed in our commercial/industrial
site - and can be ordered by email or phone from that site)
* Sealing against grease and oil saturation
Use it to protect/seal concrete building and structures not normally ‘painted' or as a ‘backup' protection/waterproofing
system under epoxy topcoats, etc. From city parking garages to private driveways, from sewer pipes to pre-cast
steps, you'll find Bio-Vee protecting and adding life to concrete surfaces around the world!
Test Data
Meets, exceeds, or passes the following testing:
ASTM D 2939 (resistance to water solubility)
ASTM D 466 (resistance to water flow and action)
ASTM E 96 (vapor transmission: 0.04 grains/squ ft/hr; water perm. 0.102)
ASTM C 836 (vertical surfaces)
SS-W-110 C (water repellence on masonry - 1.925% average)
ASTM C 672 (freeze thaw - 100 day cycle)
ASTM C 309 (concrete cure and seal)
Supplemental testing by a state Department of Transportation:
Passed Absorption test (not to exceed 1% after 48 hours/2% after 50 days under total immersion)
Passed Scaling Resistance (no scaling after 100 cycles)
Passed NCHRP 244 Series II and Series IV (absorbed chloride less than 25%/10% of untreated cube)
Application/Product Information
150-200 squ feet per gallon
Apply with brush, roller or sprayer
Apply to dry or damp concrete surfaces
Bio Vee is a clear, water-like fluid that contains no volatile organic compounds (0% VOC) with a pH of 11.5.
Bio-Vee is available in five gallon units and has a coverage rate of about 150-200 square feet per gallon.
It can be applied like water to the surface using a brush, roller, sponge, or spray bottle. A slightly damp surface
actually helps the Bio-Vee penetrate the surface, but is not a requirement (except perhaps for limestone). The
material cost for a Bio-Vee treatment can be less than 25 cents per square foot, making it one of the least expensive
sealer and protective barrier products on the market.
Try Before You Buy (see below for sample pricing)
Apply to a test patch on your sidewalk or patio and then wait for a rainy day. You'll see the Bio Vee difference
as the surrounding concrete turns dark with water saturation!
Product data sheet and MSDS available
- CLICK HERE
NON-HAZMAT - AVAILABLE FOR WORLDWIDE SHIPPING!
Our most common user is some sealing the concrete of a newly constructed home. The Bio Vee Seal is relatively inexpensive
and does not change or alter the appearance or future plans for the concrete basement, etc. Usually these people
purchase 5-10 gallons.
User feedback:
Subject: Bio Vee
Date: Tue., 1 Oct. 2002 13:43:31 -0500
From: Txxxxxxben@xxnk.com
To: p.oman@ix.netcom.com
Paul,
I received the Bio-Vee and applied it with a new garden sprayer to
my driveway. When water hits it now it beads up like crazy!
Thank You,
Tom
Hi Paul,
I purchased your Bio Vee Sealer for my concrete garage and I must say the stuff works great. It's very obvious
that water does not "seep" into the concrete now when the floor gets wet. Hopefully this will prevent
oil stains and such later on.
Nelson
9@bellsouth.net wrote:
I ordered the Bio Vee Seal and we put it down about 3 months ago in our new home's walkout basement. The damp (not
musty or mildewy), just 'wet cement and wallboard' smell disappeared within a few days. That unpleasant smell had
been seeping up and filling the main floor. I am thrilled with that result! and have the added peace of mind of
knowing that when I'm ready to lay carpet, I won't have to worry about moisture trapped underneath.
Thanks,
M
New Generation Sealer for Concrete,
Limestone, Stucco, Gunite
by Paul Oman 9/99
Introduction:
Bio-Vee is representative of a new family of sealers for porous carbonate based (typically concrete) surfaces.
Unlike traditional sealers which work by forming a surface layer, Bio-Vee works internally, below the surface.
The surface is left in its original state, without compromising its ability to accept any traditional paint or
surface coating at some future point. This is the other end of the sealing spectrum from common silicon based concrete
sealers which leave behind a silicon layer that negates even painting the surface. Bio-Vee does not work on previously
coated surfaces.
From an environmental and safety perspective, Bio-Vee also has a lot going for it. It is a single component, clear,
odorless, water-based solution that can be shipped without special requirements (in other words, without special
Haz-Mat packaging, labeling, and fees).
How it Works:
Bio-Vee seals by reducing the near-surface porosity of the carbonate material. The method is simple. As it soaks
into the material the Bio-Vee reacts with the carbonate and forms small crystals in the tiny void spaces. This
fortifies the material by reducing pore space and thus increasing the density. By filling pore spaces and clogging
pore channels Bio-Vee reduces permeability to the point of providing an effective waterproof seal, while still
allowing the material to transmit vapors, i.e. breathe. By reducing surface permeability, Bio-Vee also reduces
staining and soiling of the concrete and is often used after waterblast cleaning.
Once the water-thin Bio-Vee is applied to a concrete surface, it quickly soaks into it and dries without any visible
trace. However, wet the surface down and the presence of the Bio-Vee is quickly apparent. The areas where the Bio-Vee
has been applied will be white in color, with water droplets on the surface. The non-treated areas will have the
dark look of wet concrete.
Applications:
Bio-Vee, and products like it, are finding many applications, from tile grout, to basements, to manholes, to loading
docks. Basements where moisture is seeping through the concrete walls can be made dry by application of Bio-Vee.
Note however that the ‘clogging' action of Bio-Vee is not pronounced enough to fill cracks or to completely seal
coarse concrete or ‘cinder block' surfaces. A key advantage to using Bio-Vee in basements and similar situations
is that it is inexpensive, and does not preclude the use of more drastic sealing measures should the problem or
problems be beyond the functionality of Bio-Vee.
Concrete pipes are also treated with Bio-Vee prior to burial. In the ground, years of standing/flowing water inside
the pipe, and water contact on the outside of the pipe, will gradually wear or dissolve the concrete. Bio-Vee reduces
this damage and extends the life of underground concrete pipe.
When applied to concrete shortly after pouring, Bio-Vee helps control the concrete curing process, reducing hairline
cracking. Pre-cast concrete structures are often coated with Bio-Vee to help them weather freezes, rains, etc.
that they are exposed to during outside storage prior to sale.
Bio-Vee is also an excellent primer type coating on uncoated stucco, Gunite (in swimming pools for example) or
on concrete (such as in waste water manholes, etc.). While these surfaces are always coated with some sort of paint
or epoxy, over time the paint or epoxy barrier will be damaged or breached. This will result in the concrete/gunite
coming into contact with harsh chemicals or acids that will quickly weaken or destroy the material. By sharply
reducing the permeability of these water borne chemicals/acids into the carbonate, damage is greatly reduced or
retarded. An added benefit is that by reducing surface void spaces, a surface coat of Bio-Vee may well reduce pinholing
in the paint or epoxy topcoat caused by the expansion or release of trapped air under the not-yet-hard surface
coating. Pinholes (or bubbles/blisters) are an immediate breach of the protection such surface coatings were applied
to provide.
Bio-Vee's waterproofing abilities will also protect the underlying rebar in concrete, the ‘wire frame' behind stucco
surfaces from water caused rusting which often ‘swells' the metal and cracking the surrounding concrete or stucco.
Another interesting application is upon limestone, which is also a carbonate. Unlike most concrete surfaces, limestone
is often used as a decorative (or construction) surface for walls, floors, etc. Statues and other artistic structures
are made from limestone. Unfortunately, no matter how used, limestone is easily damaged or destroyed by ‘acid rain'
(often from air pollution) or stained by dirt or minerals/chemicals from normal exposure to the environment. Bio-Vee
is applied to clean limestone to reduce or minimize such damage by making the limestone less porous without altering
its appearance. Because limestone has less initial permeability than concrete, when used on limestone surfaces
Bio-Vee is ‘thinned' 10%-30% with very pure, very clean water which helps it penetrate the limestone. The amount
of water to add varies with each limestone source. If proper penetration is not achieved, the Bio-Vee will form
a line layer of white crystals on the surface. These can be washed or brushed off and a thinner, new coat of Bio-Vee
applied.
####
Choosing the Right Concrete Sealer
by Jay Tarantino 4/2000
Sealing (Seel-ing), verb
1. An airtight or watertight closure or fitting;
2. A term used to confuse Power Washers.
Boy, it sure seems that way sometimes, doesn't it? People ask us all the time what to use on new, old, just cleaned
or just poured cementitious surfaces (such as concrete, cement, stucco, most brick and paver stones), and they
question why they should use a sealer. Instead of promoting the latest industry concoction (and it is no accident
that concoction in the dictionary is on the same page as concrete, because there are many different concrete concoctions
out there)
we have realized that the best answers to these questions are a mix of products and techniques that have been used
and have been proven to be effective.
First, Why Should I Clean Concrete?
"To make it look nice" is generally the motivating factor for most customers when they contract your
services for the cleaning of concrete. However, don't overlook other selling points when negotiating a job. Dirt
and impurities deteriorate concrete - That's a fact. The larger the surface, the more important it is to maintain
it, due to the cost of repair and replacement. Did you know there is a whole industry for Concrete Repair? Much
of this damage could be prevented with proper cleaning and sealing. Medical and food facilities will have an antiseptic
priority; municipal and heavy traffic areas may have a wear priority. Over the years, the owners of these types
of facilities have already learned from architects and material engineers that clean concrete in conjunction with
a good sealer will yield long life and thus preserve the concrete. They have an obligation to maintain these surfaces,
especially if costly repairs must be made with the taxpayers' money.
If you aren't sealing concrete after cleaning, you're leaving money on the table. In actuality, the concrete finisher
should be sealing the concrete - and not with a temporary cure and seal. Many times, finishers are more concerned
with just getting the concrete down and getting off the job site. In what other field can you get paid on something
that always looks good when you are finished? Then, a roll of the dice will reveal the real outcome.
This actually benefits the Power Washing Industry because, eventually, the customer will call you in to clean.
A good sealer will protect the concrete and make it much easier to clean with less abrasion and harsh chemicals
- a win-win deal for you and the customer.
Why Seal Concrete?
The main reason that contractors seal concrete is because it is the most practical way to finish your cleaning
job. There are many other reasons to seal concrete, but let's cut to the chase. Consider the scientists who build
bridges, tunnels and skyscrapers. They are using better concrete and workmanship, yet they still mandate a concrete
sealer.
So, what's the deal with homeowners and light commercial business? Unfortunately, they have to learn the hard way
after their concrete experiences a little cracking here, spalling, churting, permanent stains, flaking, curling
and overall general breakdown. Did you know the #1 killer of concrete is salt and water? Well, since the cost of
concrete isn't going down, the reality of replacement and repair is soaking in.
Fact: The #1 used resource on the globe is water. The #2 used resource on the globe is concrete. This seems like
a pretty strong industry that I would want to be a part of in some way.
We have to step up and learn from our past. How long did it take insurance companies to accept the notion of "preventive
health care?" They learned that by promoting preventive methods and curbing an inevitable problem, they were
saving money - a lot of money. Why did it take so long to learn that flossing is three times better than brushing
your teeth? When will customers and contractors learn that sealing is the best preventive action to preserve concrete
and protect from stains and impurities?
What About Stains?
Boy, is this open for scrutinization! Let's start with this: If you don't seal your concrete, we all know what
happens. The impurity sits, it stains, it looks bad, and it will eventually deteriorate the concrete. It also has
the potential of becoming permanent. So, what do you do? You face reality, and the reality is you can't prevent
a stain, but you can manipulate it. In other words, you can make it a topical problem by attacking it intelligently,
as opposed to a substrate problem. Substrate penetration, at some point, becomes irrevocable with possible serious
damage to the concrete from aggressive measures like very high pressure, acids, scarifying, shotblasting, sandblasting
and nuclear explosion. (Just kidding about nuclear explosion, but some power washers can scare us with their cleaning
methods.)
Applying a Concrete Sealer
Applying a sealer on cementitious products will vary, depending on the sealer used. We are going to address a water
borne sealer since the EPA is trying to halt the use of solvent base sealers.
In most cases, application is very easy and can be mastered in a short time. It requires the use of low pressure,
and you can use a 15° tip and up, depending how fast you want to walk. It isn't necessarily the sealer that
you need to be extremely familiar with, but the surface. Learn about your surface and that will determine your
rate of application and which mix, pressure, tip and speed you use. In most cases, pump sprayers and backpack sprayers
work well. In larger jobs, you may want to seek a unit that will carry more product but will still get you down
to about 50 psi, if necessary. Here are some additional guidelines to follow:
o Use a general left-to-right motion, while moving from north to south.
o Don't let it form puddles. Sweep it out if necessary.
o With most sealers, avoid overuse.
o The water is just the vehicle, not usually part of the sealing agent.
o Watch for rain, traffic and impurities (both before and after the application) that might inhibit
the reaction that needs to take place in order to get a hold and make the seal.
o Most application procedures are similar, but always refer to the sealer's instructions, as each one may have
a caveat (warning) about their product.
Types of Sealers
The list of sealers you can use is endless. Everybody has the newest, the best modified or the improved
version of a sealer. They may come in the form of vinyls, acrylics, resins, siloxane, silicates, silicones and
more. Some of these have been proven to be effective, but it will still benefit you to investigate the new stuff.
Computers have made it possible to accelerate test data so that it can be created faster with better test results.
You don't still watch black and white TV, do you ? Maybe some of you do. It was good, and it worked just fine,
but you still can't refute that there is new technology. In the same manner, they have made great breakthroughs
in molecular chemistry that affect surfactants, which in turn affect sealers.
You want a sealer to penetrate into the substrate of the cementitious material. A sealer which coats and lays on
top is screaming, "I'm temporary!" There are not many scenarios where the customers want this, and if
they do, it is your obligation to educate them and talk them out of it.
Typically, a penetrating sealer will penetrate the surface, cause a reaction or third agent, solidify and then
do its stuff. That's part of the problem. Just because the process is similar doesn't mean the chemistry left behind
has endurance. SALT, SALT, SALT! Salt products will usually breakdown somewhere, someway, somehow. I am still waiting
for one that doesn't. Have you ever wondered why some sealers say KEEP OFF GLASS? When salt adheres to the glass,
salt can etch the glass.
Here are some general facts to consider:
o When sealing a smooth finish, the concrete is not going to be as receptive because of the porosity and tightness,
so smaller amounts can be just as effective if you are using the right product.
o With the different strengths of concrete available, additives, slump, temperature, etc., make sure to always
do a test patch. When concrete becomes a universal, consistent product, then we will be able to give a universal,
consistent application procedure. The good news is there are some sealers that are pretty close to a universal
answer.
o Some stone, marble and glazed brick do not receive penetrating sealers very well. Some will. Again, always do
a test.
o Just because it looks tight, doesn't mean it is. Various sealers have different sizes of molecules and can get
the job done. So again, do a test patch. Don't be fooled by a little chalking - this can be overuse and not a true
test for penetration.
o Sealing should be a must for preparation of an epoxy coating. This will help the degradation from the bottom
and will help prevent moisture migration, mold, mildew and accompanying smells. A good contractor should also seal
concrete before hardwood flooring, installation of carpet padding and tile applications.
Chemists have proven that a "like-like" scenario is preferred when applying a cure and seal. In other
words, here is what we see. The contractor comes in, puts down something to cure and maybe seal, with an average
life expectancy of one to nine months. It now becomes the business or homeowner's problem to protect or maintain.
The business or homeowner doesn't know what to do or how to match what is already applied to get the maximum seal.
Even if he does know what has been applied to cure the surface, it may not be suitable for sealing it, and again,
it may not be able to sustain long life.
Your position should be to work with contractors to use a sealer that will pass the ASTM's cure and seal tests,
then offer to follow up with the business or homeowners to clean and seal with the "like (same) sealer"
for the last time. It is a win-win-win deal for the contractor, business or homeowner and you. There is legislation
developing all over the country that is now protecting the consumer more and more. The Attorney General's office
is not going to accept the phrase "That's the nature of concrete. It cracks, churts, etc." from the contractor
and concrete supplier. There will be tests they will have to be passed in order to complete the job, and one of
them will be the necessity of a cure and seal. Contractors will have to upgrade their work to keep from being liable.
This is where you come in after the installation and continue to protect their work.
In closing, when you have questions about sealing concrete, go to an information source with which you are comfortable,
such as the Internet, tradeshows, word of mouth and trade magazines. Sealing concrete is as important as painting
your house. Is there some concrete you don't want to seal? Sure! If you can't get concrete clean enough to take
a seal, then a sealer probably isn't the answer. But don't surrender too fast because some methods of surface preparation
are worth the effort for the end result. A good measure for scrutiny can be determining if certain basic tests
are met. Then, there is some comfort in the fact that someone bigger, more knowledgeable and with more money to
spend has done the leg work for you. Ask for the test results. There are many garage-based sealer operations out
there. It can be confusing to determine between a good sealer and a good salesperson. Better products don't always
come from bigger companies. Some of the best sealers available are developed especially for individual applications.
As a general rule of thumb, results you can actually see will give you more comfort than all the test data in the
world.
####
Hi Paul,
I purchased your Bio Vee Sealer for my concrete garage and I must say the stuff works great. It's very obvious
that water does not "seep" into the concrete now when the floor gets wet. Hopefully this will prevent
oil stains and such later on.
Nelson
Dave M. wrote:
> I used the bio-vee after discussing it with you 3 years ago. The concrete was new - walls,12 mos. - floor
maybe 6 mos... Applied Bio-Vee Seal to the floor and walls inside. I also did the exposed walls outside. The humidity
has improved (lowered) considerably. No need for a dehumidifier now.
Already know what you want?
Goto our 1-line product/price summary page MARINE or INDUSTRIAL
Find Bio Vee Seal in our Catalog - Click Here
For product data sheet and MSDS document - click
here
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Click Here.
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