Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.

Pittsfield, NH 03263

Progressive Epoxy Polymers Inc., Floor Coatings  EpoxyPolyurethane, Pittsfield, NH


"The Right Epoxy Fixes Darn Near Everything!"

Quick EMAIL / ph 603.435.7199 EST / Google SITE SEARCH / Buy On-line TWO STORES  / Web Product CATALOGS










Epoxy Coated Table and Bar Tops

Pour On - Brush On


Buy your resins/chemicals from a coatings company, not a marketing firm

Multiple epoxy options - No one single product for everything!


 table top bar top epoxy

NO SALES TAX - You are shopping in TAX FREE New Hampshire

**  Quick EMAIL / ph 603.435.7199 EST / Google SITE SEARCH / Buy On-line TWO STORES  / Goto Contact PAGE / Web Product CATALOG / Progressive Epoxy HOMEPAGE / View our VIDEO / Navigation Bar REPLACEMENT / Data and MSDS PRODUCT INFO / Epoxy Guru HELP SITE / Top Selling Products - FAVORITES * *

Doing a Epoxy Penny Floor? It is similar in some ways. Visit our Penny Floor page instead of this web site

Your Host and Tour Guide:


Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

Board member: Friends of the Suncook River - 501(c)(3) non profit ----- Founder: Friday Night Paddlers .

We appear to be the only coatings company offering epoxy resin systems for table tops and bar tops. Our competitors all have slick web sites and all appear to sell the same imported epoxy (same typos and weird statements on their comments / directions -- scroll down to see actual example/proof below). They are salesmen all selling a single product that they know little about. We can offer epoxies with bubble breakers and extended working times because these are good features for most table and bar top projects and unlike our competitors we are involved in the formulating of these American made epoxy resin products.

Most coating companies do not focus on table or bar top systems, targeting instead large volume commercial projects like industrial floors, water treatment plants, etc. We are the exception. A coating/epoxy/resin company that actively encourages your phone calls, not just during our East Coast work hours but also after/before hours, evening, weekends and even holidays. We're available when you are. We form a personal relationship with our customers and freely share technical information, how to-advice, product information and tips-and-tricks. Speak with a non-salesman technical professional with over 25 years of experience in the resin/coating industry. 

Honest, customer/people focused companies belong to the Better Business Bureau and/or their Local Chamber of Commerce. They have manufacturing date or batch numbers on all their products for quality control and better customer service (call your epoxy source after hours and ask them if they track batch numbers! See if and when they call you back). Most will list the professional qualifications of their technical staff. They provide contact information and can be reached nights and weekends.

"Hello, I bought a few gallons of XXXXXXX bar top epoxy from another web site. I was planning to coat a (hardwood-veneer plywood) kitchen counter-top (stained with Minwax water-based gel stain).

I read the instructions, but also called to ask about something else (stir/pour time for 1 person with 4 gallons or more). Because I didn’t have time yet to do the coating, I was worried about kitchen-activity grease or other spots getting on the counter before it was sealed so I called the vendor.

That vendor’s web site has a lot of problems with chat windows that don’t work, etc. and when I commented on these 2 aspects of the service, the manager declined to give me any advice about the product, telling me I had not read the instructions. It HAD been a few months, so I re-read them and asked again.

He never responded, apparently not feeling any obligation, even if it meant I couldn’t confidently use the 6 gallons I purchased—a few hundred dollars’ worth! And no, I wasn’t abusive, nor anything but a little testy after learning I’d been misinformed.

So in hopes you can give general guidance, knowing I wish I had started with your site instead, and will do so in future (since theirs isn’t returnable): Thank You"

"I appreciate your help, and especially that you are available by phone...and answer the phone. Thanks again". ---- Tim  9/16

"Hi Paul, ---Thank you so much for all the info. Each time I spoke with you, I found you to be a very helpful, personable individual. You seemed genuinely interested in helping me get the right products and making sure that I know exactly the best way to apply it for optimum results. Sadly, in today’s business world, those are not common traits. It definitely was a pleasure to do business with you ( as cliche as that saying is.) I definitely will recommend to anyone who needs your products. Best wishes for continued success. Sincerely, Julie" (6/2019)

"Paul, Finally got my top poured, your product is AWESOME. I was hesitant with all I read about go small first, my top was 8'x2'6"x1/4". I'm the "Go big or go home" guy, this top was my first pour & I feel that your product made it as easy as it could be. I was very surprised at the lack of fumes, I poured in a different location & could have just poured in the store where the counter is going."

"Paul, Finally got my top poured, your product is AWESOME. I was hesitant with all I read about go small first, my top was 8'x2'6"x1/4". I'm the "Go big or go home" guy, this top was my first pour & I feel that your product made it as easy as it could be. I was very surprised at the lack of fumes, I poured in a different location & could have just poured in the store where the counter is going."



Overlooked information often left off the competitors' web sites

 These issues should be clearly mentioned and explained:


1) Epoxy yellowing in UV light

2) What happens if poured too thick - big heat kick and uneven surface

3) What happens if you do a poor job mixing (you get sticky spots that never get hard - fix = more epoxy on top)

4) Epoxy scratch relatively easily (treat with care)

5) Epoxies soften at about 160 degrees. Place a hot object on the epoxy and it will leave a permanent dent in the epoxy

How This Site is Organized - Table of Contents

(scroll down to visit these sections mentioned below)

Epoxy 101 - section 1

   All epoxies yellow -- UV warning

    Epoxy coverage rates

    Mock up test panel

    Thinned first coat - thickness per layer

    Dealing with bubbles

    Top coating and protecting the epoxy with a non-epoxy coating

    Putting our bar top into service

    Competitor's bad example (mentioned above)

Epoxy Option 1 - section 2

    Bio Clear 810 epoxy

professional grade, 1/4 pours, requires an edge all around

Epoxy Option 2 - section 3

    Basic No Blush Epoxy with bubble breaker

for 'run over the edge pour on projects' - regular and slow cure options

Epoxy Option 3 - section 4

   Basic No Blush Epoxy with bubble breaker

multiple brushed on layers

Epoxy Option 4 - section 5

    ESP 155 epoxy sealer

very thin epoxy layer with varnish top coat

What Can Go Wrong - section 6


Commercial Bar Top projects using the Professional Grade Bio Clear 810 epoxy

(other DIY - hobby grade bar top epoxies also available)


Professional grade bar top and table top epoxy (Bio Clear 810) - as well as DIY hobby craft bar top epoxies because one single bar top epoxy option just isn't good enough for everyone and every application. Shop here for your ONLY online source for Commercial Quality counter top epoxy (Bio Clear 8100) - plus we offer 24/7/365 email and phone call-back (the sales organizations do not) - and we are a chemical/technical company and not a sales organization lacking the education and knowledge to offer more than one epoxy product. We don't give our products "slick marketing names" and we don't flood Google with $$$ to show up over and over again in a Google Search (you can tell where their priorities are! - it is not in the products, it is in the sales)


Epoxy 101 - section 1

   All epoxies yellow -- UV warning

It is a fact. All epoxies yellow in UV light (and even over time). Anyone that tells you they offer a non- yellowing epoxy is not telling you the truth. Some epoxies yellow faster and yellow more than others, but they all will yellow. That is just part of the chemistry of epoxies.




epoxy yellowing







Stopping UV damage and UV yellowing  ----------------    Josie Lewis (6/2010) wrote:

Hi Paul: I recently purchased some clear epoxy  and Acrylic Poly UV Plus from your company. I have access to a UV chamber which simulates high altitude direct UV exposure. I thought you might be interested in my findings. I used a Masonite panel painted white and then coated with the epoxy. On half of the epoxy coated panel, I brushed on one coat of UV Poly and put it in the chamber for 644 hours at 50 C (the heat accelerates the exposure). Attached is a picture of the results. The masonite cracked a bit and separated due to a bit of wetness in the wood (unrelated to the resin). The epoxy  ambered dramatically within about 50 hours. After 644 hours, the UV Poly showed a slight bit of ambering from the original control but it is marginal at worst. The technician who ran the test said if it isn't yellow at 644 hours it is basically indestructible. I also tested several other 2-part resin products with the UV Poly and had the same result. You have a great product. I now feel secure knowing that my resin art, protected with the Poly UV Plus, will be archival and protected for long years. I will be ordering more soon!

Best, Josie (6/2010) Order Acrylic Poly UV plus - cannot be sold in Calif. - and all our other products at our King Cart Storefront. Acrylic poly UV Plus is in the non-epoxy section.


    Epoxy coverage rates

A gallon of epoxy (or any liquid) will cover 6 square feet at a 1/4 of an inch thick. How thick do you want your epoxy to be?



The big shocker to people considering a thick poured on clear table top is the amount of epoxy necessary. Here are some numbers you need to know:

1 gallon of anything applied 1/4 inch thick will only cover slightly less than 6.2 square feet.

1 gallon of anything applied 1 inch thick will only cover 1.6 square feet.

At 1/2 inch thick that gallon of epoxy will only cover about 3.2 square feet.

There 231 cubic inches in a gallon. One square foot is equal to 144 square inches.

"Pour on and over the edge epoxies" generally claim they put down 1/8 inch layers, but it actually less. They claim 16 square feet per gallon, but if it was 1/4 inch thick, coverage would only be 12 square feet. Note that 2 pennies stacked on top of each other equals about 1/8 inch.


    Mock up test panel

We suggest you do a "cake pan size" copy of your project before you your primary pour. This way you have some experience with the epoxy and have a bit of the learning curve behind you and you know what to expect. Don't risk your $$$ project with something you have no experience with and no clear idea what will be happening.

    Thinned first coat - thickness per layer

The surface to be coated is often sealed with some other product prior to pouring the epoxy.  This is necessary when pouring over old lumber etc. Also many of the objects to be covered with epoxy need to be sealed to prevent air (and bubbles) from coming out of them. Generally people use a clear polyurethane from the hardware store, or marine spar varnish, or even glue. When sealing old wood, seal with at least 2 coats of sealer (as per customer feedback - one coat may not be enough). Sealing prevents leaks, bubbles, and show possible bad stuff, like grease or oil that will mess up the epoxy pour. It an also glue down objects to be placed in the epoxy. Easier to fix before the epoxy is poured (may not be able to fix after the epoxy is poured).

So... two coats of clear sealer recommended - let dry for several days or longer.




After sealing - priming, you can apply the epoxy in layers up to 1/4 inch thick at a time. When the epoxy sets up, it generates heat and if the epoxy layer is more than about 1/4 inch, you can get wavy surfaces do to the un-even heat. When the poured epoxy has cooled back to room temperature and firm enough to handle another 'tidal wave' of fresh new epoxy, you can apply the next 1/4 inch epoxy layer.

    Dealing with bubbles

Bubble can form in the epoxy for the mixing of the epoxy or from tiny cracks, spaces, voids in the surface being covered with the epoxy. Our Basic No Blush epoxy has bubble breaker in the formulation which will greatly reduce the bubble issue especially when the bubbles are from mixing the epoxy. Note that bubbles can be popped with a pin in many cases, but the primary way to deal with bubbles is with a heat gun or torch. Most of the videos and directions for doing this are wrong. You do not point the torch at the bubble. You run the torch parallel and about 1 inch above the epoxy surface. You are heating the air above the bubble, not the bubble or the epoxy itself. Bubbles are generally not a big issue with our epoxies, but judging from the amount of coverage at our competitors' sites, it must be for them.

    Top coating and protecting the epoxy with a non-epoxy coating

We often recommend top coating your epoxy table top or bar top with a few coats of our India Spar Varnish to provide UV protection and an easy to repair (re-coat) surface. The varnish is slightly amber and doesn't look good over white surfaces, but if you surface are wood or darker colors the varnish top coat will appear clear. We also have a "not user friendly, two part poly (like auto clear coat - Acrylic Poly UV plus - $$$) that can be sprayed on to provide UV and scratch protection. This is probably something you don't want to deal with unless you have some experience in 'spraying clear coat'. The varnish and the UV plus coatings cannot be sold in California.

A marine spar varnish top coat can be polished and waxed to a mirror like finish. Remember those movies where the bartender slings a stein of beer sliding down the bar? Apply the varnish and then wax and polish (or wet sand, wax and polish) it.

    Putting our bar top into service

The epoxy will generally feel firm and dry overnight, but epoxies take a week or longer for full cure. You want to wait a few days before putting the bar back into regular service. If you leave papers or a cash register on the day old epoxy, it may ell become epoxy glued to the surface or leave a non-removal dent in the epoxy. Epoxies soften at about 160 degrees so placing hot objects on the cured epoxy could result in a 'dent' that will never go away.

If the project lives outside, you want to cover project with some sort of cover or tarp when not in use to protect it from dirt and UV.

    Competitor's bad example (mentioned above)


Table - Bar Top Epoxy Supplier Warning

We suspect our competitors use low quality, resins from overseas. We see the same bad grammar and crazy statements on the product sheets of our competitors. Also, most American formulated epoxies are a 2:1 mix by volume while epoxies from China always seem to have a 1:1 mix ratio. Here is an email I received from an epoxy supplier in China in June 2019. It is possible (and likely) that our competitors are using this product or something very similar to it from other suppliers in China. We offer several table - bar top - resin systems (including one with bubble breakers) all made in the USA and shipped with product production batch numbers on each container. All of our epoxies are formulated products where the raw resins and raw curing agents from the major chemical companies are our starting point and not the final product repackaged and shipped out.

Chinese Email (9/2019) ---

"New Table Top Coating Epoxy Worth To Know

MTB-2209, 100% Solid, VOC Free Clear Epoxy Resin For table top coating
Wood table, Bar table ect.
Your reply will be appreciate
MeiTaiBang Chemical website:"

Is this the source of the epoxy that you want to use on your project?



Epoxies are serious chemicals and sellers are required to provide product chemical data sheets MSDS or SDS documents. This provides a list of chemical used, warnings and shipping restrictions (sort of the salt and fat numbers provided by restaurants and on food labels). I see no links on the slick epoxy pour web sites for MSDS/SDS documents. They are required be making them available to you (thus helping you know something about the quality/composition of the products they sell as well as if it is made in the USA). Chemicals like epoxies also come with a PRODUCT DATA SHEET that give general information about the product. NO sign of them on those other sites either. Right at the top of this page you will find the link EPOXY DATA SHEETS - that takes you to our DATA, SMDS and SDS product documentation.  We're sorry our web site is not as slick as theirs - we are a coating epoxy company (in business for over 25 years). We physically touch and work with epoxies every single day - and we are members of professional coating society associations (and our local Better Business Bureau - none of that on their sites either).  (We answer our phone after hours and on weekends. Do they? (give them a call and find out!)



Horror Stories Using Competitors'  Budget Epoxies

BACKGROUND: There are two types of epoxy vendors. The 'serious' professional grade epoxies  are formulated by beginning with  the raw resins manufactured by the giant chemical companies. Call these companies EPOXY FORMULATORS.  Generally the low price epoxy vendors merely repackage these raw bulk resins. Not a good thing!  Call these companies EPOXY REPACKAGERS. It is the difference between Moonshine and Jack Daniels. Use only FORMULATED SPECIAL PURPOSE EPOXIES LIKE THOSE SOLD IN THIS WEB SITE. Going cheap can have very $$$ consequences. See Below:

EXAMPLE 1:  A commercial epoxy pour contractor recently used our Bio Clear 810 pour on  epoxy to replace a badly yellowed epoxy covered logo in the INSIDE  floor of regional airport terminal with our 'almost no yellowing' Bio Clear 810 (cyclo-aliphatic epoxies to the rescue!) We don't know for certain that the original contractor used some inexpensive REPACKAGER'S epoxy, but it certainly sounds like it.

EXAMPLE 2: I recently got a phone call from someone using epoxy to seal wooden tables they were selling. They were using 'cheap' epoxy from a  REPACKAGER (uxcoxxxxxxxs). After six months the epoxy on the tables all exhibited millions of tiny cracks (like shattered safety glass). This wouldn't have happened with a specially formulated epoxy designed to overcome the 'flaws' of the raw resins. Bad news for them.

EXAMPLE 3: Another phone caller told me how they had ordered over a hundred gallons of epoxy in two separate orders from a low cost REPACKAGER (bxxxbxxxxxxxxxy). The first batch worked fine but the second batch failed completely. The vendor knew it was their fault (bad batch? wrong barrel to jug pour out?) and refunded their money. But that didn't undo the damage done.


Epoxy Option 1 - section 2

    Bio Clear 810 epoxy

professional grade, 1/4 pours, requires an edge all around






epoxy bar top bottle caps

Epoxy bottle top bar

Bio Clear 810 epoxy man cave Bottle Cap Bar



epoxy bar top









Click here for the latest "how to instructions and comments" formatted as a PDF file for easy downloading/printing.

"Love the product (Bio Clear 810) these past six years I've been using it." 8/15 - John R.

"Damn! We love this product. Been using it to create VERY high end gaming tables for 8'ish years." 10/17 - John R

"We've been using the Bio Clear 810 for many years for game tables. We probably do 4-6 per year using a little less than 1/4" of epoxy. Here's a link to just a very small sampling of the tables we've made." John R (10/18)

John R. - Custom Furniture Creations find on Facebook

Bio Clear 810 (tm)- Table top epoxy for Professionals

The PROs keep coming back, year after year.


(Bio Clear 810) "Great Product. Works great on burying wine and craft beer labels on tabletops, etc." - C.G.H. 11/16

"As a professional woodworker, I was recently contracted to make a 14 foot curling table for a customer. After doing some research, I came across your Bio-Clear 810 epoxy product and chose it for the price and the eccentric web site. I figured that such a "different" web site MUST be offset by a truly quality product. I was right! My customer was delighted with the product and I hope to sell many more of these curling tables in the United States. Thanks guys ! " -  John

"As a complete novice using epoxies, I was nervous about pouring a bartop over wine corks. Thanks to your great advice and superb Bio-Clear 810 the finished product looks fantastic!

We cut the corks roughly in half and glued them down using a hot glue gun covering the entire bottom of each cork. The corks were sealed with polyurethane as was the deck. Did two pours with the first not quite covering the majority of the corks. There was very little odor."

All in, you made this look like a pro job even though I was a rookie! Thanks!  Jay from Michigan

Bio Clear 810 epoxy is so popular (and has been available for a number of years) that it is covered on multiple pages on this site and on other internet web sites. A lot of repeated information, but worth reading more than once!

This page you are reading is the 'primary' site for all epoxy table top and bar top options and information, you will find BIO CLEAR 810 ONLY (quotes, pictures, added information, etc.) using the links to the older Bio Clear 810 pages in the table below. Bio Clear 810 was the original table top epoxy we offered (hence all the pages). The other options and products developed over the years and are mostly only addressed on this more recent page.


Bio Clear 810 epoxy (1/4 inch pours - needs edge on all sides)

More info, pictures, comments

Bio Clear 810 epoxy (1/4 inch pours - needs edge on all sides)

More info, pictures, comments

Bio Clear 810 user comments

More info, pictures, comments

Bio Clear 810 user comments

More info, pictures, comments

More Bio Clear 810 user comments (2nd web site)

More info, pictures, comments



The Bio Clear 810 (option #1) is the usual epoxy for bar tops with edges all around. The Basic No Blush (option #2) with either the regular or slow curing agent is the most common epoxy used for "pour and spread" with edges and often with "live edge" projects.

The only Cycloaliphatic Table Top Epoxy

Epoxy Option 2 - section 3

    Basic No Blush Epoxy with bubble breaker

for 'run over the edge pour on projects' - regular and slow cure options



CLASSIC POUR-ON EPOXY - basic no blush epoxy (often used with the SLOW summer curing agent for longer work time and more time to self level when temps are over about 73 degrees and for large areas). The basic no blush epoxy with the regular epoxy has a shorter pot life (especially in warmer weather. It is also thicker, making it idea for 'over the edge pours' but thicker also can mean less or slower self leveling, especially in warm weather). Use either the regular or slow cure for filling cracks, knot holes and voids. Basic No Blush epoxy has 'normal' epoxy yellowing.


CLICK HERE for a web page exclusively about NO BLUSH POUR OVER THE EDGE epoxy (this option).

The Bio Clear 810 (option #1) is the usual epoxy for bar tops with edges all around. The Basic No Blush (option #2) with either the regular or slow curing agent is the most common epoxy used for "pour and spread" with edges and often with "live edge" projects.


Epoxy Option 3 - section 4

   Basic No Blush Epoxy with bubble breaker

multiple brushed on layers


The basic No Blush epoxy with the regular or slow summer cure can be brushed or rolled on for a thinner finish. Brush or roll on multiple coats.


Exterior Natural Wood Finish with No Blush Epoxy  (tm) and Marine Spar Varnish

This application is boat windows, but could also be done on exterior door, table, bar top



"(5/2019) Paul;

Attached is a picture of two of the 14 frames I have made for the windows and door of my tugboat (Candu-EZ 14'3" model) named Electra. I wanted to share with you my excitement regarding the use of Progressive Polymers No Blush Epoxy as a sanding sealer/stain. Here is my process in the event that you would want to share it with others.

Substrate is african mahogany.

Final sand with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth finish, wipe with alcohol dampened cloth or paper towel and remove dust with tack rag.

Mix No Blush Epoxy according to weight ratio of 1 part resin to 0.42 part standard hardner (I don't recommend the fast hardener for reasons that will appear later).

Add alcohol based stain (Behlen Solar LuxTM NGR Medium-Brown Mahogany Stain) 25% W/W and mix well.

Apply with inexpensive chip brush and brush out well. Caution: be sure that the finish is brushed out well to avoid runs and "edge lips", which are hard to remove without removing more wood due to the epoxy base.

Sand lightly with 220 grit and reapply as necessary, (i.e., missed spots or areas in which the sandpaper may have removed too much color).

The next step will be the application of Varnish to the tune of about 7 coats (vendor note: most folks would apply 1 - 3 coats of varnish - besides the Basic No Blush (with bubble breakers) epoxy, we also sell India Spar Varnish) -- (but less than what would be needed if not epoxy sealer were used)."


Additional Customer Notes and Comments

"Thinning the "No Blush" with alcohol based stain works well in this case. Initially, I used both 91% Isopropyl alcohol along with the stain as a thinner, but I found the Isopropyl alcohol to be unnecessary for the depth of color that I desired.

I used some wood filler to deal with some imperfections in my wood routing techniques. While the stain/epoxy mixture did color them, it did not do so at the same intensity as the wood itself. In retrospect, i believe the better solution would be to leave the imperfections alone (smooth them of course) and fill them with stain filler stix that Behlen also has in corresponding colors.

 Using an alcohol based stain as a thinner for the epoxy appears to have some impact on the thinning duration (i.e. the mixture thickens over time). This appears to be a function of the relatively rapid evaporation of the alcohol which has the effect of an increase in viscosity over a a period of 15 minutes or so. As a result, the color impact of the mixture becomes somewhat more intense. Therefore, I recommend keeping the batch size small, probably no more than 3 oz (liquid measure) total volume at a time. In this way, the color consistency was very good and given the spreadability of the mixture, coverage was adequate to prevent slowing down the staining/sealing process of a number of the frames pictured at one time.

Again, thank you for your support and your knowledge AND for a great product."
- BOB  5/19



Other Options:  Instead of the honey thick, solvent free, Basic No Blush epoxy, the same results could be had using our solvent based, water thin, ESP 155 epoxy sealer  - Epoxy Option 4 below (not for sale in California). Read about these product options in our Favorites Page.

Epoxy Option 4 - section 5

    ESP 155 epoxy sealer

very thin epoxy layer with varnish top coat



Brush on a solvent thinned epoxy sealer and primer (use ESP 155) - then top coat with several coats of INDIA SPAR VARNISH.  Note; these two products cannot be sold in California. - Least expensive and best for outdoors. Can polish and wax spar varnish to a mirror finish. This is the system that a majority of DIY users settle on.


Option 4 - best option for outdoors

esp 155 epoxy table top


Minwax (tm) oil stain - left to dry for 2 weeks - 2 coats ESP 155 epoxy sealer and primer - 4 coats of India Spar Varnish (note ESP 155 and Varnish not for sale in California)


What Can Go Wrong - section 6



1) The epoxy leaks out from the corners FIX seal the edges and corners (using some of the epoxy, varnish, etc.). Test (maybe with water) before your big pour if you are pouring on to a surface with an edge all around it (option 1).

2) Bubbles in the epoxy - either from mixing too vigorously (you're not making whip cream!) or from the wood/objects you are covering with the epoxy. Sealing the surface prior to the pour will take care of the bubbles from objects in the epoxy. To remove bubbles quickly pass a torch/heat gun over the surface of the epoxy once the bubbles have reached the surface of the epoxy.

3) Stress cracks. On large pours (say over 3 or 4 gallons, or maybe greater than 15 or 16 square feet) - stress cracks can form from all the different temperatures generated. The bigger the pour the thinner each layer of epoxy has to be to 'handle' all the heat. I wish I could be more exact here, but I have no 'real' numbers to offer. I have found that running a fan across the poured epoxy helps to dissipate and even-out the heat generated permitting thicker and larger pours.

4) Ridges and an uneven surface. Just like the stress cracks, this is a result of too much epoxy (too thick) applied at one time. The unevenness is from the heat generated (unevenly) in the pour.




fisheyes in epoxy

Fisheyes (see picture) happen when working with clear epoxies. They don’t always happen, but they are not that rare although epoxy vendors tend to downplay the risk of fisheyes. Fisheye will form within about 10-20 minutes after the epoxy has been applied to surface.



Fisheyes are all about surface tension and often surface contamination of oils, waxes, silicones etc. Fisheyes  are much less common in pigmented epoxies and epoxies with fillers and binders which ‘hold the epoxy together’ and preventing fisheyes. Of course, adding fillers, pigments or binders results in an epoxy that is no longer clear.

Fisheyes can result when clear epoxies are applied too thin (often to slightly contaminated surfaces, but not necessarily) with surface stresses exceed the ability of the epoxy to ‘hold together." They are much more common on smooth glassy surfaces and rare on rough surfaces.




Thicker layers of clear epoxy are the answer to preventing most fisheyes. The Bio Clear 810 epoxy is so thin that it is recommended not to be applied in thicknesses of less then 1/4 inch thick (which requires and edge or dam around all edges). It is commonly used in professional bar top and table top applications.

When working with other ‘pour on’ epoxies, fisheyes tend to happen (if they are going to happen) when the epoxy is spread out or brushed out instead of just poured on and allowed to flow out on its own - resulting in a thicker layer).



Keep an eye on your "pour on" or brushed on clear epoxy for the first 30 minutes or so after application. If you see fisheyes forming you can generally ‘fx’ them by pouring more epoxy over the forming fisheye.

If your epoxy is already 'hard' when you notice the fisheyes, here are your options. If the fisheyes are caused by surface contamination then sanding down and/or adding more epoxy may not help - the still present contamination will once again cause more fisheyes in the new second coat of epoxy. A possible fix is to 'seal' the contaminated epoxy with a clear poly sealer and paint which MIGHT separate the contaminates from the the new epoxy to be applied over the poly sealer.

If the fisheyes are caused by minor surface contamination or just too thin of a layer of epoxy you can: 1) pour on more epoxy over the fisheyes and entire surface (but you will still see a slight dimple or depression over the old fisheye sites), 2) sand away the fisheyes and the entire surface and re-apply more epoxy.



A majority of fisheyes are caused by applying clear epoxies too thin on smooth surfaces. In one sense it is best to apply the epoxy as thick as possible, however, if it does fisheye the you will have a real mess to sand away or re-do. Best advice might be to apply a thin coat of epoxy in a small test spot. If it does fisheye, you can probably remove the still liquid epoxy with a solvent soaked rag. If the epoxy is already hard, the thin coat of epoxy in a small test area will not be that big of a deal to sand off. If it doesn't fisheye you can proceed with more epoxy at that thickness or thicker without worry.

Do a test. Brush on a thin coat of your clear epoxy on a 4 inch by 4 inch area. Watch it for about 20 minutes to see if it fisheyes. Whether it does or not, scrap off or remove with a solvent soaked rag. Now you know what to expect.

If you are into your Big Project and see fisheyes forming, adding more epoxy over them is your best fix. So... keep an eye on your clear epoxy application for about 20 - 30 minutes after you apply the epoxy and be on the lookout for developing  fisheyes.


The epoxy will feel dry and hard overnight, but it takes a week for it to fully cure and harden. Do not place objects on the epoxy before then as they will stick or leave a dent or impression in the still hardening epoxy.

Get everything at the same temperature - epoxy and the all surfaces and keep it that way for a day or so after the pour. Avoid applying near windows etc. where sunlight will change the temperature. Temperature changes (warmer temps) may cause bubbles to form.

Don't try to get the last few drops of epoxy out of your mixing container. The liquid sticking to the sides and corners/edges of the container never get completely mixed. Pour your mixture out of the mixing container but don't keep it draining out for more than 10 seconds or so. Poorly mixed epoxy will always stay tacky or wet, either in certain areas or all over. Even better is to double mix. Mix in one container. Pour into a second container and mix again. Use the double mixed epoxy from the second container on your surface.


bio clear tabletop bar top epoxy












Note edge all around the table



810 table top bartop epoxy



Hello Paul  --  Sending photos of the shower my wife Regina and I designed. We wanted the shower floor to convey a beach feeling. To achieve the effect, white cement was used and tiny sea shells were pressed into the surface. After the concrete cured I took your advice on which epoxy to use to encapsulate the sea shells (Basic No Blush).

It was a bit tricky to keep the epoxy from all flowing into the drain. :-)

After brushing on three coats I used a hole saw to cut thru the Basic No Blush epoxy that had collected over painters tape covering the drain. Heeding your warning that wet epoxy is dangerously slick, I finished the job with a top coat of acrylic sealer with a glass dust nonslip additive. The results are beautiful and safe.

Thanks for the advise and great epoxy product.  --  Best Regards -- Mike


Bio Clear 810 Contractor Box - Hire a Pro for your next epoxy pour

Ohio based John Martin of Epoxy Concepts has travelled the country pouring Bio Clear 810 epoxy on commercial projects. His largest project, probably a record setter in poured epoxy projects, was a 34 ft by 34 ft  (1156 squ feet) recording studio floor. With the help of 6 assistants Mr. Martin tinted the epoxy blue, added metal flakes to make the poured epoxy sparkle, and poured out over 200 gallons of Bio Clear 810 epoxy.

More common projects for Mr. Martin are commercial bars (may of the bar pictures here are Mr. Martin projects). As the owners tell me, "All the money is made within ten feet of the bar," so the bar gets top billing. Generally it takes about 20 gallons of Bio Clear 810 for commercial  bar surface. Sets of table tops for restaurants are also common projects.

Mr. Martin does not work for us. Our customers hire him directly after purchasing the Bio Clear 810 epoxy from us. Mr. Martin and Epoxy Concepts can be reached at or by calling 859-553-3187

Your project might not be 1156 square feet, but use an professional epoxy that can handle such a huge pour successfully. Bio Clear 810 has a track record and following in the professional marketplace.

"You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You." Brian S.

"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe



Let's stay connected. It's a win-win situation. Receive our online NEWSLETTER by emailing us your name and email address.


Legal Stuff / Returns

NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings, etc. are required reading before using web site, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms. CLICK HERE  to access these terms. Please note: Whenever you purchase from this web site, and with each new purchase, you are granting us full and complete permission to add you to our email newsletter list at our option. Accessing this web site, and/or purchasing our products, grants Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. permission to add you to our email newsletter list. You may opt out from the newsletter at any time (link to do so can be found on the newsletter).

RETURNS: call or email for authorization to return. Returns are subject to a 25% restock fee. Customer pays return shipping and must comply with federal DOT shipping requirement/labeling for hazmat epoxies under penalty of fines and legal action.

**  Quick EMAIL / ph 603.435.7199 EST / Google SITE SEARCH / Buy On-line TWO STORES  / Goto Contact PAGE / Web Product CATALOG / Progressive Epoxy HOMEPAGE / View our VIDEO / Navigation Bar REPLACEMENT / Data and MSDS PRODUCT INFO / Epoxy Guru HELP SITE / Top Selling Products - FAVORITES * *

Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. 

Located in No Sales Tax - New Hampshire (homepage)




"The Right Epoxy fixes Everything!"

Visit our Subject / Catalog contents PAGE