PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC.
Pittsfield NH 03263
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We are the only technology based coating/epoxy/resin company that actively encourages your phone calls, not just during our East Coast work hours but also after/before hours, evening, weekends and even holidays. We're available when you are. We form a personal relationship with our customers and freely share technical information, how to-advice, product information and tips-and-tricks. Speak with a non-salesman technical professional with over 25 years of experience in the resin/coating/epoxy industry (no newbie staffer on the phone lines!). Floors, tables, boats, leaks, rot repair. We handle it all! We are an 'always available,' one-on-one, technical/scientific, coating company (watch our video). We are NOT one of those fluffy/slick mass sales firms the dominate the internet selling cheap third party (made in China???), low end epoxies and coatings with no real knowledge of what they are selling and quotas to sell to as many people as possible. 603-435-7199 (east coast time).
BEST DIY SEAMLESS EPOXY RESIN
QUARTZ FLOORS - APPLICATION MANUAL
resin/quartz broadcast floors
Quartz - sand broadcast floors - tough and non skid
Your Host and Tour Guide:
Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)
Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)
Board member: Friends of the Suncook River - 501(c)(3) non profit ----- Founder: Friday Night Paddlers .
"Professionals helping Professionals"
FLOOR EPOXY SYSTEMS SINCE 1994
"You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You." Brian S. (call 603 435 7199 anytime)
"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe
Seamless Epoxy Quartz Floors Are the High-End, Toughest and Most Durable of All Floors. They Can Be Made to Look More Attractive By Using Colored Sands and A Clear Topcoat Instead of Aluminum Oxide Or Regular Sands For Serious Commercial Applications, This Is The Primary Epoxy Floor System To Consider.
Epoxy Floor Section in our online catalog - CLICK HERE
No Sales Tax applied. Save Money. You're shopping in Tax Free New Hampshire - and you can order bulk order our Industrial Floor Epoxy in any gallon amount over 15 gallons packed in five gallon pails (besides our standard 1.5 gal units packed in DIY cans)
Highest Quality Commercial Epoxy Resin Floor
After suitable surface preparation, we generally recommend a coat of gray industrial floor epoxy covered to excess with aluminum oxide (sands works too, but not nearly as durable). Any excess aluminum oxide is then swept away and the surface covered with another coat of industrial floor epoxy. This locks the aluminum oxide in place and essentially results in a quartz (or aluminum oxide) floor held in place top and bottom by epoxy. Expect the epoxy to yellow in direct sunlight.
Colored Sand Broadcast System
This system repeats the Highest Quality Commercial Floor System described above, but replaces the sand or aluminum oxide layer with a layer of blended color quartz sands (practically an infinite combinations of number of different colored sands and proportions of each color. Background epoxy color also affects final color appearance). After the excess sands are swept away the remaining surface is covered with a clear top coat (epoxy, linear polyurethane, or acrylic - see Clear Coat Page). If epoxy is used as the clear sealing topcoat, yellowing will result areas exposed to direct sunlight.
Because of the cost of the sand, especially the shipping charges, this method is rarely used by homeowners, and most commonly used in commercial applications.
Order direct from the manufacturer - CLIFFORD W ESTES CO INC. 973-575-4400 - www.estesco.com
Professional contractors apply our Industrial Floor Epoxy (tm).
Now you can too! catalog page or buy now
Disclaimer: The comments below are offered only as suggestions and guidelines. All decisions regarding product selection, surface preparation, and coating application are the sole responsibility of the purchaser.
Surface preparation is, or should be, a significant portion of any epoxy coating project. Each surface and environment is different and unique. Some surfaces will accept coatings with minimal preparation, others will always exhibit problems. Experienced coating applicators will often refuse to accept these problem floors.
It is nearly impossible to know ahead of time how much preparation is necessary. A minimalist will simply brush or sweep the surface, apply the coating and hope for the best. Slightly above this step is to ‘acid etch' the concrete with acid purchased at the hardware store. On the other extreme, some people will wash, degrease, chemically and/or mechanically etch the surface and then sometimes repeat the process. Some place between these, just sweeping and repeated processing is probably the wisest approach and the one commercial contractors follow. Home owners, lacking the tools for industrial mechanical surface preparation, often just sweep, hose or acid etch.
The problem with surface preparation is that it is often several months down the road before coating failures related to surface preparation may appear. By then it is too late to do much except laboriously remove all the recently applied coating and begin all over again. That said, for homeowners, the minimal approaches usually prove adequate.
EPOXY SURFACE PREPARATION SITE
Grease and oils can create serious adhesion problems for coatings. Degreasing and washing may appear to remove the grease or oil, but in badly saturated situations residual oils/greases seem to remain and may cause a coating failure in the future. While not a definitive test, pouring a glass of water on the concrete and watching what happens can provide a valuable clue to coating adhesion. If the water quickly and evenly soaks into the concrete the surface preparation may be adequate at that point.
Moisture either in the concrete, and/or migrating through the concrete can cause coating failure as well. Taping a sheet of plastic to the floor and looking for moisture to form under the plastic is a crude but common test for migrating moisture. Some epoxies will handle a wet or damp surface better than others. Note that crystals forming on the surface due to water migrating through the mineral rich cement can create forces of up to 1,500 pounds of pressure as they grow in size. Few coatings can withstand such ‘anti-bond' forces.
Irregular surfaces on the floor will show through the epoxy and may be more noticeable after the epoxy is applied. Fill or patch any irregular surfaces on the floor before starting. You can mix sand into a small amount of epoxy to form a slurry (the sand will decrease the amount of epoxy needed) to fill voids and cracks. Do not fill in or paint over expansion joints in the floor. The epoxy will crack, split and lift off when there is movement along the expansion seam.
If the floor is subject to heating and cooling cycles, air bubbles (that often form tiny craters in the epoxy) can sometimes be a problem. As the concrete heats up in the sunlight, the air in the void spaces of the concrete expands and forms a bubble that gets ‘stuck' in the thickening epoxy. If this is a potential scenario for you, apply the epoxy when the air/concrete is cooling off rather than heating up. When the temperature is falling the air contracts and will literally pull the epoxy into the concrete void spaces. After the epoxy has cured, the heating and cooling cycles are not a problem.
How Many People Are Needed
One person can do a small area epoxy floor by himself, but it is much easier with a multi-person team. The best team size is probably three to five people. That is one or two people rolling on the epoxy non-stop, one or two people spreading the sand or vinyl chips non-stop, and one person mixing fresh batches of epoxy, refilling sand/chip supplies, and helping out as needed. Applying the sand or vinyl chips is probably the slowest of the tasks.
Mixing The Epoxy - Epoxy Notes
Initially mix only the amount of epoxy that can be used in 15 minutes or so. I would begin by mixing a batch of between 24 and 40 ounces of epoxy to begin with. Depending upon the air and surface temperature, the specific epoxy product, the amount of epoxy mixed, and the size and shape of the container, the working time (pot life) of the epoxy can vary from about 15 to 50 minutes. It is best to begin by mixing up small batches and increasing batch size until you determine the amount you can easily work with without going beyond the pot life. Once past the pot life, the epoxy will begin to thicken/harden and become warm to very hot.
Mixing is often done with a mixing rod sold at hardware stores that attaches to an electric drill. There is no magic time for how long to mix, you simply have to mix the two parts very well. It is pretty much guess work as to how much mixing is enough. Common sense is usually all that is needed.
Never attempt to get every last drop of epoxy out of your mixing pot. The few drops of epoxy clinging to the sides and corners of your mixing container will not be well mixed and may not harden. I like to mix in one container and work out of a second container which I have filled from the mixing container.
WATER BASED (WATERBORNE)
EPOXY FLOOR PAINTS
SOLVENT FREE (or low solvent)
EPOXY FLOOR PAINTS
Water Bond Epoxy (tm)
med. gray only
Industrial Floor Epoxy (tm)
light gray or beige only
* actually contains voc solvents plus water (restricted in some locations)
* slight odor
* very long pot life
* water clean-up
* large coverage per gallon
* good color stability
* very thin coating - will not hide flaws (may highlight them)
* somewhat breathable and some penetration into concrete (good adhesion)
* generally less used than solvent free epoxy floor paints
* can be primer /sealer under other epoxy (non epoxy) floor systems
|* no solvents or
VOC issues (solvent free only)
* generally odorless
* wet thickness equals dry thickness (no shrinking)
* thick coating hides flaws and imperfections
* can trap air bubbles from expanding air in concrete
* shows epoxy yellowing in UV
* coverage about 150 sf per gallon
* creates vapor seal (radon etc)
* can have adhesion issues on damp moisture rich surfaces
* tough and durable
* standard commercial - professional floor solution
* short pot life - working time
* use with colored chips or colored sands
* works with chips - sands - multi-coat systems
Applying The Epoxy
The epoxy can be applied to the floor straight from the rolling pan using a paint roller. However, experienced applicators have several alternative methods that they use. Most pour the epoxy from the mixing container directly on to the floor in ribbons. This spreads out the epoxy and extends working time. After the epoxy is poured out upon the floor it is often spread out with either a squeegee or notched trowel (usually one with 1/16 inch notches purchased in the tile section of the hardware store). After the epoxy is spread, then the paint roller is used to evenly and uniformly level and finish spreading out the epoxy.
The recommended roller is a 3/16 inch nap roller specifically labeled for use with epoxies. An alternative would be a ‘lintless' roller (although I have never actually seen a roller labeled lintless). Foam rollers work also, but the foam may begin to break off before job is complete. Regular ‘bulk' rollers (3/8 inch nap) will work too, but will leave roller fibers/lint on the surface for the first 30 square feet or so. Because the roller is in constant use the epoxy on it stays fresh and a single roller will last for the entire job, no matter how many batches of epoxy are mixed.
To make sure you are not using too much or too little epoxy you need to keep track of how much you are using for a given area. If aiming for a coverage rate of 100 square feet per gallon you should be using about one quart per 25 square feet (one five foot by five foot section). If you are using too much epoxy, work the roller/squeegee or notched towel a bit harder and/or thin it a little bit with lacquer thinner, MEK, or xylene. The epoxy will also thicken and not spread as well if the epoxy or the floor is cold. Epoxy thickness is very related to temperature (warmer temperatures mean thinner epoxy but also less pot life or working time). Just a little bit of thinner will make a big difference. You can also often simply spread out the epoxy a bit more with the squeegee, notched towel (this is where the notches and the downward pressure on the trowel really prove their value), or roller.
Broadcasting Sand, Rubber Grit, or Walnut Shell, or Vinyl Chips Into The Epoxy
For a modest anti-slip surface, small amounts of sand or some other material can be tossed (broadcast) randomly
upon the freshly rolled out epoxy. Use the paint roller to "back roll" over the sand. This will completely
coat the sand grains and, surprisingly, redistribute them in a relatively uniform pattern. When using a thin, clear
epoxy topcoat, fine ‘sugar sand' can be sprinkled on to the epoxy to provide a fine, invisible, texture.
A true quartz etc./epoxy floor however, requires that the sand or anti-slip material be ‘broadcast to excess (or refusal)'. This means you keep adding sand on top of the epoxy until no epoxy shows or bleeds through the sand topcoat. You will find that it may take several minutes for the epoxy to ‘soak through' the sand so recheck the area every few minutes looking for ‘shiny spots' that need more sand. It will take about a half pound to one pound of sand per square foot to completely cover the epoxy. Later you will recover about half of the sand as excess. With experience you will learn to broadcast less and less excess sand on to the epoxy. The result is very attractive, uniform, semi rough finish (note: if using walnut shell or rubber grit, you'll get about 16-18 square feet per gallon (4 quarts) of material).
If using the vinyl chips, practice before hand sprinkling them uniformly upon a surface. You don't want to accidentally drop lumps of chips all in one spot and you also want a semi-uniform density or clustering of chips on the surface. If you make a mistake you can ‘fix' it with more or less chips or epoxy either at this point or when the clear topcoat is applied.
Note that you can walk on the freshly applied epoxy wearing spiked shoes, either homemade or purchased. Garden shops sell spiked shoes for aerating lawns. Golf shoes would probably also work. The shoes leave tiny holes in the liquid epoxy which quickly fill back in providing the epoxy has not yet begun to harden.
After The First Coat of Epoxy
If you have taped out areas or edges to keep the epoxy from getting on a wall or pipe, you must remove the tape before the epoxy hardens. If you do not, the tape will be epoxied forever in place.
After the epoxy has hardened (overnight or so) carefully sweep or blow off the excess sand and chips. Then roll a topcoat of more epoxy (usually, but not always, a clear epoxy such as our Bio-Clear 810 epoxy) over the new surface to seal and protect the chips or sand grains. With the broadcast sand system, the now rougher surface will consume more epoxy. You may need to thin the epoxy somewhat or really pay attention to spreading it out as much as possible. If you fail to take this into account you may find yourself short of epoxy or that much of the anti-slip texture has been filled in with the epoxy.
Epoxies exposed to sunlight will yellow, lose their gloss, and eventually cloud up. Some colors of epoxy show this more than others. Brick red epoxy shows very little yellowing, white, followed by clear, is the worst.
We sell a 2-part acrylic polyurethane with max UV blockers (Acrylic Poly UV Plus) that can be applied over the epoxy topcoat that absorbs enough of the UV to keep epoxy from yellowing in direct sunlight. Apply over a topcoat of epoxy or directly over the broadcast sand/walnut/rubber. The down side of the polyurethane is the strong solvent odor is a a very thin coating. See our clear coat product page. Also see our our info page about 'clear coats for epoxy floors - the big vendor rip-off" - epoxy floor clear top coat .
You can clean your tools before the epoxy has hardened with either lacquer thinner, MEK, or our special non-solvent TA 661 product. If allowed to soak, the TA 661 will even remove partially cured epoxy. On tools and skin the TA 661 will leave an oily feel that can be washed off with regular soap and water. Do not bother to save brushes and rollers, dispose of after each use.
Dear Sir, We applied the Industrial Floor Epoxy
in our work trailer yesterday, and I swept off the excess sand today. We are very pleased with the results. None
of us had any particular experience with this kind of application, but we followed the instructions, had a fairly
cool morning to do the work, and managed to complete the application in about 90 minutes, dividing the work and
mixing epoxy in three sections. I would recommend this material to friends looking to do similar work. Thank you
for your assistance, the all-purpose sand was quite adequate for our needs.
R.C. - Virginia Transportation Research Council (9/2010)
Links to Lots of MUST READ Information Articles About the Best Epoxy Floor Paints, Including Preparation, Alternatives, What Can Go Wrong, etc.
Bio Vee Seal - INTERNAL CONCRETE SEALER
SOME OF THE SITES THE ABOVE LINK
WILL DIRECT YOU TO
Clear Top Coats - FLOOR CLEAR TOP
Best Floor Epoxy - CLICK HERE
Epoxy Quartz Floor - BROADCAST FLOOR
Acid Etching - ACID
Epoxy Paint Chip Floor - CHIPS
Epoxy Paint vs. Floor Epoxy Paint - EPOXY PAINTS
Epoxy Paint - SURFACE PREP
Floor Basics/Options - START HERE
Floor Epoxy - CATALOG PAGE
Questions: ASK PROFESSOR E. POXY
ON-LINE CATALOG HOMEPAGE.
Inside Our non-marine, commercial, DIY Catalog:
corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; crack coat™; liqua tile 1172 potable water; water prime
Find Corro Coat FC 2100 and Water Gard 300 epoxy in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog
water bond (water based); industrial floor epoxy; bio vee seal; walnut shell; rough coat grit filled epoxy floor paint; epoxy clear top resi
wet/dry 700; splash zone A-788, epoxy cream; splash zone a-788
Find Wet Dry 700 epoxy in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog
low V epoxy; basic no blush; ESP 155; Bio-Clear 810; epoxy clear top resin
Find Low V, Basic No Blush, and ES 155 epoxy in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog
Aluthane moisture cured urethane; Acrylic Poly UV Plus and other 2 part polys ; Capt. Tolley's creeping crack sealer; india spar varnish;
Find Aluthane in our Best Selling - fix anything Catalog
fumed silica; fiber fill; micro balloons/micro-spheres; graphite; wood flour; EZ thick, rock flour;
water activated pipe wrap; TA 661 solvent-free epoxy brush cleaner; fiberglass tape/cloth
short nap epoxy rollers; epoxy/stone deck resurfacing roller; 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors
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