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- CLICK HERE--
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The
HELP PAGE is the easiest way to navigate through our 180 page web site!
This is just one of about 20 web articles regarding epoxy
floor coatings.
CLICK HERE to access all of them!
NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings,
etc. are required reading before using website, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online
or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms.
SKIP EVERYTHING - GO TO OUR ONLINE STORE AND ORDER OUR SOLVENT FREE (WET THICKNESS EQUALS DRY THICKNESS) "INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY" - 1.5 GAL UNIT (COVERS ABOUT 180-200 SF) IN LIGHT GRAY OR BEIGE. OR ORDER OUR USER FRIENDLY, WATERBASED FLOOR EPOXY "WATER BOND"
IN MEDIUM GRAY ( 1 GAL KIT COVERS ABOUT 200-225 SF). CLICK HERE see section 2 epoxy paints
GOTO THE FLOOR COATINGS PAGE IN OUR PRODUCT CATALOG -CLICK HERE
we have a page that talks about all your anti-slip
options - click here
(Commercial Grade Professional Epoxy Paints, etc.)
This is your starting point page (with lots of internet links)
for learning about all kinds of epoxy floor coating options, from low cost garage epoxy floors, to decorative home
floors, to high-end commercial work floors.
Note that while is page was written for cement floors the methods and products will also work on wood/plywood and
metal floors
Concrete sealing /sealers info page - epoxy and non epoxy options
- Click Here -
?????
Unlike our competitors we welcome communications from our visitors and customers. Questions?
Ideas? Comments? Ready to Order? We're best reached by email (info@epoxyproducts.com) which is checked ALMOST 365 days a year. You
can call us during our Office/Desk hours which are Mon-Thur 10:30-3 Eastern time - 603-435-7199. Orders are best
handled online (click here for more contact info and links to our online 3rd party store), but telephone orders are cheerfully
accepted too. If you are interested in epoxy floors please first read our page www.epoxyproducts.com/floorcoatings.html before calling or emailing
as there are dozens of different epoxies, application methods, etc. that you need to think about first. Without
first reading that page, we could spend hours and hours discussing your options while other people are also trying
to contact us.
K.I.S.S. - -
"Keep it simple!" section:
This page provide you with tons of information and many many options. It could take you a long time to work through
the different epoxies available, different application methods, etc. etc.
For those of us that like to KEEP IT SIMPLE, (K.I.S.S.) just
pick one of the four basic options:
1) One coat of our waterbased floor epoxy - WATERBOND™ - rolled on with a regular paint roller (color MEDIUM gray only). PRO- easy CON- thin
coat that doesn't hide cracks etc. Commercial - industrial grade version
of the 'homeowner' water based floor epoxies sold in the big Box Stores.LISTED BELOW
2) One coat of our solvent free INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY -
rolled on with a short nap epoxy roller (we sell these). Result is a classic epoxy thick, glassy, tile-like finish.
PRO- thick, hiding coat, odorless CON- short working time & needs a good surface LISTED BELOW
Note that on surfaces other than residential garages (where the
cement is generally 'vibrated down' to remove air from the cement) i.e. barns, workshops, etc. air trapped in the
cement can be released into the thick epoxy forming lots of air bubble/blisters/craters. Reduce or eliminate by
sealing the cement first with a thinned epoxy sealer like our ESP 155™ .
3) BIO VEE GLOSS™-
a non epoxy, waterbased clear acrylic. A light duty cement sealer (will work on other surfaces too) that will give
a gloss finish (may take 2-3 coats for the gloss to show) resulting in an attractive, easy to keep clean, surface.
LISTED BELOW
WHY PROFESSIONIALS DON'T USE 'BOX STORE' EPOXY PAINTS
One would think that epoxy paints sold at superstores would be expensive. There
are many links in the chain from manufacturer, distributor, shipper and store. Each needs a 'piece of the pie'
to make a living. That's why you don't see epoxy floor professionals outside of Home Depot on Saturday mornings.
But the paradox is they pay a lot more than Home Depot prices. Industrial grade epoxies typically sell for $75
to $750 per gallon. And those are the factory/manufacturer prices, not the inflated store prices (which can easily
be 300% more than the 'starting price'). So why are the prices so low at the consumer super stores?
* some of the coatings are old technology, no longer used by professionals. Shifting them to the superstores at
rock bottom prices means squeezing out a bit more profit.
* they are low end products to start with (why not everyone buys tools at the Dollar Store). Professionals need
the 'good stuff' - their reputations are on the line.
You will not find our products at any superstore, or being resold (after a 60%-100% markup) by some distributor
or agent. Our niche is commercial epoxies made available to homeowners (and professional contractors!)
READ ABOUT PRIMER OPTIONS/CONCERNS AT OUR PRIMER PAGE
primers improve bond to the cement and can reduce air bubbles coming
out of the cement and getting trapped in the epoxy - CLICK HERE
EXAMPLE OF DIY GARAGE FLOOR WITH CHIPS - ACTUAL CUSTOMER EXAMPLE
- CLICK HERE
Note: basements are like garages, but with much more serious moisture
problems that could cause a coating to fail. Some coating manufactures simply don't recommend their products for
basements to avoid these potential problems
At the bottom of this page we also have links to some of our competitors
as well as some "how to" sites on epoxy floors.
Knowledge is Power - We like informed consumers!
Finally, email us back with your questions or comments before
you buy - EMAIL HERE
BEFORE WE BEGIN: Our approach here at Progressive Epoxy Polymers,
Inc., is to educate you about DIY (do it yourself) epoxy floors and then offer you all the options. This also means
you'll have to make a good number of decisions. Some people really like this 'information based/take charge of
it yourself' approach. Other people get upset because we do not offer/provide a stock/one approach 'kit' that they
can purchase without having to do any of the 'homework' that begins below. So, if you're looking for that off the
shelf kit with a five minute decison process, you're at the wrong epoxy floor site.
Before we get into the kinds of floor epoxies, application, etc. we have another web page that give more of the
broader picture and general pluses and minuses of epoxy floors - sort of the bigger picture before you focus on
down to the specifics on this page - to visit www.epoxyproducts.com/beginfloor4u.html (click here).
In a nutshell: 3 kinds of floor
epoxies:
1) thick, shiny, no solvents or odor - can be slippery when wet; serious commerical
stuff - called: INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY ---
2) water-based floor epoxy - thin - will not hide cracks or flaws but functional
and the most user friendly. Sometimes used as a primer under option #1. called: WATER BOND ---
3) solvent based thin epoxy with anti-slip grit - tan color only. Use by itself
or over other epoxies. called ROUGH COAT------
EPOXIES WITH COLORED CHIPS - you pick chip colors and percentages from online
color chart. Several different methods to apply - generally a 1 to 4 coat system - you must decide! How much or
how little surface prep and primer or no primer - also you decision! We only provide the products - with enough
options to get your head spinning.
Note: the common floor epoxy sold in the big box stores is typically a water-based
floor epoxy.
1) Bio Vee Gloss™ - a non epoxy, clear acrylic waterbased concrete sealer (a good,
cheap, alternative). CATALOG
LINK
2) Industrial Floor Epoxy™- a solvent
free epoxy. Can be used as is or with chips or plain/colored sands. Add grit for anti-slip. Colors: light gray
or beige. CATALOG LINK
2-b) various clear solvent free epoxies for sealing in colored chips, etc. Can
also be pigmented (we carry several colors of epoxy pigments) for additional sovlent free floor coating options
(much like the Industrial Floor Epoxy mentioned above). CATALOG LINK
3) Water Bond™ - waterbased floor epoxy (or can be
used as a primer under the Industrial Floor Epoxy). Easy to apply. Add grit for anti Slip. Color: medium gray.
CATALOG LINK
4) Rough Coat™- a solvent based, tan colored epoxy
with fine grit already in it. Nice texture. Can be painted over for a different color. CATALOG LINK
5) Acrylic Poly UV plus™ - a high solvent, 2 part urethane often used as a clear
coat over epoxies because it will keep the epoxy glossy and will keep it from yellowing. Found in the Non Epoxy/Urethane
section of our catalogs. Best if applied over a coat of thinned epoxy when used on wood. CATALOG LINK
6) Aluthane™ - an aluminum filled moistured cured urethane. A general purpose,
high perforance, high solvent, metallic coating. Often used on metal or wood structures, it also makes a touch,
durable, gray/silver floor coating that can be applied at low temperature. Found in the Non Epoxy/Urethane section
of our catlaogs. CATALOG
LINK
7) India Spar Varnish™ - old fashion oil based varnish for wood surfaces. Best
if applied over a coat of thinned epoxy when used on wood. CATALOG LINK
Getting Started
note: these epoxy systems will also work on wood, metal and fiberglass surfaces.
Step 1: Is your cement floor suitable for coating?
What kind of surface prep can you do or are you willing to do? This is best discussed in our
'garage/basement page" Some folks get away with just sweeping and painting. Others do all sorts of prep. It
is your call (we cannot make that call for you!). You usually don't know if you have done enough util it is too
late. http://www.epoxyproducts.com/garage4u.html
What is your objective? protect the cement and easy to sweep (functional) or 'showroom'? Are you willing
to take the time, effort and cost required for a fancy multi coat system? It could be a 1 to 7 coat system. Want
to have that paint clip look? - there are several different application methods and different coatings to consider,
not counting the color, percent of each color and how thick you want to put the chips down. See http://www.epoxyproducts.com/chips4u.html
A water based epoxy system or a thicker solvent free epoxy floor coating? You'll need
to decide this before you can proceed. See Water based epoxy option below.
You can select (or may require) anything from a 1 coat system thru a 7 coat system..........
Step 2: Optional step - seal the concrete internally with our Bio
Vee Seal product. Leaves nothing on the surface - reduces or removes musty odors and dampness. Cheap, easy,
no surface prep needed - must be applied direct to the concrete. (about 20 cents per square foot)
USED BY ITSELF, IT WILL REDUCE, OR ELIMINATE, MOISTURE MIGRATION THROUGH CONCRETE FLOORS AND WELLS (THROUGH
THE CONCRETE ITSELF, NOT WHEN MIGRATION IS THROUGH CRACKS). IT IS USED ON CONCRETE THAT IS ALWAYS A BIT DAMP AND
TO END THE 'MUSTY' OR DAMP SMELL IN BASEMENTS, ETC. PERHAPS MORE IMPORTANTLY, BUT LESS OBVIOUS, IS THAT BY REDUCING
OR ELIMINATING MOISTURE MOVEMENT THROUGH THE CONCRETE IT INCREASES THE LIKELIHOOD OF A SUCCESSFUL PAINT OR COATING
JOB ON THE CONCRETE SURFACE (NOTE: THIS PRODUCT WORKS BELOW THE SURFACE OF THE CONCRETE, IT LEAVES NOTHING ON THE
SURFACE). THIS IS BECAUSE MANY COATING FAILURES ARE THE RESULT OF MOISTURE OR VAPOR PRESSURE BUILDING UP ON THE
UNDERSIDE OF COATINGS APPLIED TO CONCRETE.
BECAUSE OF THIS, BIO VEE SEAL IS ALSO A RECOMMENDED, BUT OPTIONAL,
PRE-TREATMENT TO CONCRETE SURFACES THAT WILL BE COATED WITH SOME SORT OF SURFACE COATING.
Step 3: Consider applying a clear sealer over the concrete (instead of a more durable, tougher, higher quality
epoxy floor paint), whether you've applied Bio Vee Seal or not. These medium quality sealers will give the concrete
a shiny wet look and reduce dusting on the surface. Cleaning and sweeping will be easier. Note that this step could
mean you can never epoxy coat the surface in the future.
THIS PRODUCT IS LISTED IN OUR CLEAR COATINGS SECTION (SECTION D)
CLICK HERE (CLEAR EPOXY) TO GO THERE.
Step 4: Optional step - coat - prime surface with our water based floor epoxy - Water
Bond. Looks like a coat of thin paint - will not hide or fill cracks, chips etc. Leaves original cement non-slip
texture. Water based so it soaks into the cement resulting in a decreased risk of coating adhesion failure (water
based primers may be better than solvent based primers on concrete) . Needs two coats to uniformly cover non-uniform
colored cement. Can be used as a finish or final coat too. (about 30 cents per squ. foot). LOTS
MORE ABOUT PRIMERS.
Step 5: Apply 100% solids epoxy floor paint (Industrial Floor Epoxy - click
here INDUSTRIAL FLOOR EPOXY) - will probably need to add anti-slip grit. You can get more fancy here: broadcast
colored chips or sand (plain or colored) for thicker and/or more durable and/or more decorative look. (about 40
cents per square foot to $2 per square foot for the fancy multicoat systems). This step may include several coats
of pigmented and clear epoxies with chips or colored sands in one or more of the coats.
The Water Bond (step 4) can also be used (and often is) as the first and only epoxy floor coating - instead
of the Industrial Floor Epoxy.
Another option is our Rough Coat™ (thin solvent based, tan colored floor epoxy with non-skid grit already mixed
in) over either the Water Bond epoxy or the Industrial Floor Epoxy.
Step 6: sometimes people topcoat the epoxy with a more color stable urethane (i.e. a snowy white floor) or
clear polyurethane (about 20-30 cents per square foot - may need two coats). We now offer a 2 part urethane clear
coat with max UV blockers that should reduce or stop the UV yellowing of epoxies and maintain a good shine. It
is called Acrylic Poly UV Plus.
NOTES: MANY PEOPLE DO JUST ONE OR TWO OF THE PRECEDING STEPS (#2, #3, #4, #5). RARE FOR PEOPLE TO PRE-TREAT (BIO
VEE SEAL), PRIME WITH WATER BASED EPOXY, TOPCOAT WITH SOLVENT FREE EPOXY (PARTIALLY BECAUSE PRODUCTS COME FROM
3 DIFFERENT SOURCES).
IF YOU ARE CONSIDERING CARPETING, WOOD FLOORS, ETC. OVER A CEMENT FLOOR - YOU REALLY DO NEED TO 'SEAL' THE
CONCRETE (WE HAVE HEARD LOTS OF HORROR STORIES WHEN PEOPLE DON'T DO THIS). YOU CAN USE ONE OR MORE OF STEPS #2,
#3, #4, TO DO THIS.
how much surface prep you do and which combinations of steps to do are tough decisions you'll have to make, as
well as how fancy you want to get appearance-wise with steps #4 and/or #5.
NOTE THAT A GALLON OF ANYTHING SPREAD 1/4 INCH THICK WILL COVER ONLY 6.5 SQUARE FEET. A LOW
SPOT/DIP OR TWO ON YOUR SURFACE CAN QUICKLY THROW YOUR ESTIMATED COVERAGE (GENERALLY 100-150 SQUARE FEET PER GALLON)
OUT THE WINDOW....
Don't leap into a floor coating project until you've made
a decision about how much or how little surface preparation you are willing to do. This could be your biggest and
most critical decision - CLICK
HERE to go to our surface prep page.
Other Options
Basically we walk people thru the floor coating selection process
by figuring out if they will/should use the solvent free Industrial Floor Epoxy or the waterbased Water Bond floor
epoxy. Then the dialog gets into primers, topcoats, etc. based upon the 'guessed' condition of the concrete, the
desired end result (appearance or pure functionality, etc.). But there are other options too.
One can just use our Low V clear water epoxy (which will yellow in
direct sun) which is often thinned with solvent and used as a optional primer under the Industrial floor epoxy.
It can be used by itself only to seal the floor for a functional surface.
Also, our 1 part aluminum filled, moisture cured urethane (called
Aluthane - click here) - color is 'aluminum' or 'silvery light gray' makes a very tough, easy to
apply, protective floor coating on wood or concrete. I just recently opted to use that instead of epoxy on the
floor of a new yard shed. I was able to apply it with temperatures in the upper 30's (too cold for epoxies!)
Often for home use - less likely to have problems compared to 'regular'
solvent free epoxy that rely completely on surface only bonding. Most forgiving floor epoxy in terms of surface
preparation. It is both the primer and/or topcoat. It is functional but doesn't hide cracks, rough spots etc. That
can be good as it leaves much of the original cement non slip texture in place (unlike the thicker, fault hiding,
solvent free Industrial Floor Epoxy). The common Rustoleum garage floor paint sold in Home Depot, etc. is a waterbased
floor epoxy. Our product is called Water Bond and comes in 1 gal units in med gray.
Select from between a 1 coat system all the way to a 7 coat system
Note the commerical applicators rarely use a 1 coat system, while many
homeowners do. Most professionals use some sort of primer coat, few homeowners do.
A description of each of the 1 to 7 coat approaches is posted on our "garage" page.
Don't leap into a floor coating project until you've made a decision
about how much or how little surface preparation you are willing to do. This could be your biggest and most critical
decision - CLICK HERE to go to our surface prep page.
Addtional pages on a different domain:
http://www.concrete-garage-epoxy-floor-paint.com/epoxy-floor-paint.html -----
Index of Epoxy Floor Paint Sites - Basics, Options,
http://www.concrete-garage-epoxy-floor-paint.com/epoxy_floor_paint_test.html
---- Garage Epoxy Floor Paint --- Self Test ---
10 questions you need to know/ask regarding epoxy floor paint
coating (click
here)
In the last five years or so there has a massive increase in the number of web sites selling epoxy floor paints
to home owners and small businesses.
These sites contract sharply with the older traditional sites (including ours) that sell quality epoxies to professional
coating contractors and other industry professionals.
We suggest you proceed carefully when surfing internet epoxy floor paint sites. The sites are always slick and
obviously designed by the marketing department and not the technical staff. They offer prices that range from super
cheap to way too high. They tend to be full of promises, pictures and claims, but very weak on actual technical
product information about the product itself. The often fail to mention that all epoxies yellow in UV and sunlight,
that surface preparation and surface conditions, which are outside the control of the epoxy vendor, can often be
a real problem that can make or break a project. Potlife and mixing issues are also downplayed.
I oftens see claims that if true would be breakthrough advancements in the coating industry, but never mentioned
in coating industry trade magazines/journals or used/mentioned by the major epoxy/paint/chemical companies. Experienced
epoxy users know these claims are too good to be true, but they make good promotional copy for selling to non-industry
buyers.
Problems and issues associated with 2 part chemical products (epoxies) purchased online buy inexperienced users
can be difficult or impossible to resolve. Who is at fault when the problem is due to user inexperience, an unsuitable
surface or conditions, poor surface preparation, purchasing the wrong product, or damage in shipping?
Professional sites also make easily available technical product data sheets and MSDS (required Material Data Safety
Sheets - which includes a chemical ingredietns list, necessary for comparing different products and different products
from different vendors). I find these are often missing in many of the flashy DIY sites. It is a Red Flag and
usually means they are hiding product chemical information which can give an educated viewer a good idea of the
quality and potential performance of the epoxy.
GOTO THE FLOOR COATINGS PAGE IN OUR PRODUCT CATALOG
- CLICK
HERE
What can go wrong -
The Problem Page (air bubbles - blisters etc). A must read. There are situations and things, some completely outside
of your control or knowledge that could cause problems when you are dealing with epoxy floor coatings. The final
decision to epoxy or not, surface preparation, which products to use, how to apply etc. are all you responsibility,
not withstanding suggestions, comments, options, we may offer to you. Read our legal section CLICK HERE (www.epoxyproducts.com/legal.html) for more details and disclaimers.
Products and problems will be similar with all companies and vendors. We simply are willing
to 'educate' you about them. We share the good news and the potential for bad news with you. We like educated and
informed customers, even if we scare some of them away. I don't think any of 'other companies' have a 'What can
Go Wrong Page" on their web sites!
Many people and companies opt to use a coating contractor to select and to apply their epoxy floor. This way many
or most of the issues that can cause problems shifts from your responsibility to the contractor's responsibility.
This is one reason why the contractors get paid so well. A few bad calls by the contractor and he's in debt and/or
out of business.
We DO NOT have a list of contractors or other service providers that we recommend.
Risks of using epoxy in basements and below grade environments
Q: The first six months, the epoxy floor looked awesome. Then
shortly after, a couple of alkaline deposits formed. Next, the epoxy started to bubble up in isolated areas.
A: The alkaline deposits are signs of water/moisture migrating through
the cement floor. The water evaporates and the 'white chalk' left behind are minerals salts and crystals.
The epoxy is a hard non porous surface that doesn't let the water vapor through. Pressure builds up (the crystals
can generate 2000 PSI as the grow) - this is popping off the epoxy. In theory, you can get enough bond with the
epoxy too sometimes to resist the vapor pressure (over 2000 psi) In real life conditions adhesion is probably 200
psi.
Your old non epoxy paint was able to let the moisture through (I.e. breathe) either because of the nature of the
paint or 'pinholes' etc. It could also be that the moisture coming through the floor is a new thing - failed vapor
barrier film, leaking pipe under the slab, change in outside drainage, rising water table etc.
So what we know is that you have a vapor/moisture transmission issue in your below grade basement floor. From the
amount of peeling, the problem is very bad (not just a bit here and there). If you live in the NE you might do
a radiation test. This is how radiation gets into homes - migrating with moisture up from the ground.
There are some products that address the issue of permeability in the concrete (Bio Vee), but it is a cross your fingers and hope
it works fix. More commonly, folks just switch to a breathable coating that lets the moisture pass through it.
Water-based epoxy paints are often semi-breathable and much thinner, and
may sometimes work (see our Water Bond (tm) epoxy).
CLICK HERE to goto AARON'S Directory of Epoxy Web Sites
CLICK HERE to goto Paints-Coatings-Epoxies Web Site
Inexpensive Special Affects:
The colored quartz sands and vinyl chips add a lot of 'snap' to your epoxy floor, but can be an expensive and
time consuming project (for more info see links section above). There are easy and cheap alternatives: 1) our ELA
link above offers a way to "faux sponge paint" a decorative finish over the epoxy using ordinary latex
paint. 2) we have had exciting looking results using "American Accept" stone look spray paint from Walmart
and Home Depot over the epoxy and then sealing with a clear coat. 3) really neat and cheap - using cheap spray
paint and 'mist' the surface by spraying high and far away. The results are tiny droplets that fall on the dry
(day or two old is best) epoxy surface. Using black, white and an deep orange (etc.) will yield a granite like
look. If things go bad, immediately wipe the fresh spray paint droplets off with a solvent soaked rag and try again!
Practice on a piece of cardboard or construction paper to get the look and colors right before attacking your new
epoxy floor. You might want a clear topcoat over the 'spray paint' (our LPU 100 is the best product for this),
but we are thinking you probably will not need it. Even if the paint droplets do eventually wear off, you can always
reapply......
Just wanted to say Thanks for the great product (Industrial Floor Epoxy) and service on my Garage floor project.
It set up great and once I got the nak for Pot Life times, I was off and running laying down the mixture!!
I should have taken before and after photos but it really came out great and most important, I can see the strength
of the Epoxy as a protective
barrier. I look forward to winter now with all it's wrath! This time I'm ready!
Hope to be in touch soon for other projects.
MarkWhat can go wrong - the Problem Page CLICK
HERE
Don't leap into a floor coating project until you've made a decision
about how much or how little surface preparation you are willing to do. This could be your biggest and most critical
decision - CLICK HERE to go to our surface prep page.
GOTO THE FLOOR COATINGS PAGE IN OUR PRODUCT CATALOG
- CLICK
HEREDisclaimers:
Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. shall not be liable for any injury,
loss, damage, direct or consequential damages arising out of the use of its products. The purchaser/applicator
shall determine the suitability of the products for the intended use. The products are applied by others and Progressive
Epoxy Polymers does not provide any warranties, whatsoever arising in connection with the use of these products.
APPLICATION/SUITABILITY DISCLAIMER. Any suggestions/procedures
offered by Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. are given AS-IS without any warranty and in no way expand the rights
under which you have, or will purchase, this product or related products. Your use of any of these suggestions/procedures
is at your sole cost and risk. In no event shall Seller be liable to you for CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL damages.
You must make an independent determination whether to follow any or all of the above items based upon the numerous
application variables at hand. Consult Seller Warranty Disclaimer and Return
Policy document for additional notifications.
TEMPERATURE AND CHEMICAL RESISTANCE DISCLAIMER. The temperature ranges and/or chemical resistance or pot life information
outlined above is based upon information provided by the raw material vendor or product formulator, or private
tests. It is provided AS-IS without any warranty and in no way expand the rights under which you have, or will
purchase, this product or related products. Chemical resistance can vary depending upon, but not limited to, such
factors as evaporation, temperature, humidity/moisture, surface preparation, interaction with other chemicals,
oxygen levels, and evaporation. Temperature effects on coatings can vary based upon solar heating/coating color,
ventilation, duration of frequency of heating cycle, immersion or moisture levels and fluid flow. Pot life is affected
by temperature, volume of epoxy mixed and shape of the container. Your use of these epoxies under these conditions
is at your sole cost and risk. In no event shall Seller be liable to you for temperature or chemically caused coating
failure or CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL damages. You must make an independent determination confirming the coating's
resistance to the chemicals and temperatures present in your unique situation.
SUGGESTION DISCLAIMER. Any suggestions/procedures offered are given AS-IS without any warranty. Use of website/email/telephone
sugestions and/or procedures is at your sole cost and risk. Buyer is solely responsible for testing the suitability
of Product and determining quantities needed. Buyer is also solely responsible for compliance with local VOC (Volatile
Organic Compound) regulations controlling the purchase and use of Product at buyer's location. Carefully read and
understand all Product application, safety precautions and MSDS information before ordering.
Preparation problem 70%; application problem 12%; environment problem 6%; wrong paint selection 9%; bad paint
1%; adding thinner 2%
"At least 70% of premature coatings failures are traced back to 'surface preparation' whether referring to
wood, concrete, or metal. In a commercial recoating project, the costs (and profit) associated with surface preparation
are about 70% of the job. How extensive the surface preparation is will depend on the performance expectation of
the owner... Know the A, B, C's of surface preparation - visible contaminants, invisible contaminants, and profile."
Dr. Lydia Frenzel, The ABCs of Surface Preparation, Cleaner Times, April 2001, pg. 42-44.
