Nothing but Quality Products at Good Prices, Great Customer Service, and Lots and Lots of Helpful Information

and NO SALES TAX - You are shopping in TAX FREE New Hampshire



WHO ARE WE? Make sure you are purchasing your epoxies from a real epoxy company and not a bulk repackaging company

Watch our short 2-minute company presentation.  Progressive Epoxy Polymers video


CALL 603-435-7199 (or email).

We are the only technology based coating/epoxy/resin company that actively encourages your phone calls, not just during our East Coast work hours but also after/before hours, evening, weekends and even holidays. We're available when you are. We form a personal relationship with our customers and freely share technical information, how to-advice, product information and tips-and-tricks. Speak with a non-salesman technical professional with over 25 years of experience in the resin/coating/epoxy industry (no newbie staffer on the phone lines!). Floors, tables, boats, leaks, rot repair. We handle it all! We are an 'always available,' one-on-one, technical/scientific, coating company (watch our video). We are NOT one of those fluffy/slick mass sales firms the dominate the internet selling cheap third party (made in China???), low end epoxies and coatings with no real knowledge of what they are selling and quotas to sell to as many people as possible. 603-435-7199 (east coast time).




winter curing option - build down to 32 F degrees

(Marine Epoxy Resins - Find us on BING search engine)



DIY Stitch and  Glue Epoxy  Resin

Boat Building - Laminating

Newbie Tips How To Help

Stitch and Glue Boat Building - Beginner's Guide

ABSOLUTE BEST SOURCE for epoxy information, options, USA made products, 24/7/365 help, and support

(EMAIL 603 435 7199)


So you want to build a boat and you've decided to use the stitch and glue method. That's great! This site is an introduction to that boat construction method. While the boat plans you buy will focus on the 'trees in the forest', we'll take a more broad approach to stitch and glue construction - we'll look at the "forest" and not get bogged down in the 'trees". And we'll talk about the epoxy options and the fiberglass you'll need. And then we'll look at the choices for finishing your new boat.



What is Stitch and glue boat construction?

How do you do stitch and glue?

Problems with Stitch and Glue boat construction

Stitch and Glue construction options

Stitch and Glue tips and tricks

stitch and glue boat construction epoxy

I've been using the Basic No Blush on all my own stuff, and using up all the West on most customers boats. When the West is finally gone I'll only be using your epoxies. Good stuff. I'm rebuilding an old Rybovich so a big order in the future...  Patrick (comment on on-line order)


Dec 2008 from Doug: "The following is my opinion of a good company. My affiliation is as a DIY end user. No recompense, no funny business: I've been refurbishing our 1973 ketch and have done some epoxy work in that process. I've never worked with epoxy before this. I talked to several local glass workers and researched on line to learn a bit about epoxy. I searched for different vendors and their prices. I settled on a place in New Hampshire called Progressive Epoxy Polymers. (

My first thought was, what a mess of a website. I found it very confusing. Since I first came upon it, there have been improvements made to make it more "user friendly". Aside from that, the site is most informative to this beginning DIY's. I was won over by the explanations, descriptions of chemistries, MSDS's , suggested usages, and personal responsiveness of the owner and his wife. I did a calculation of prices per ounce, approximating the match of the different brand's products. I realize that there is no way I can say I'm comparing the same chemistry of different brands. Nevertheless, Progressive Epoxy prices remain the best I have found.

I've used the Premium No Blush (~15 gallons), Low-V (~2 gal), a putty with kevlar, and some elastomeric stuff. In addition I've used the fumed silica, micro balloons, ezy-thick, chopped glass & milled glass.

Progressive Epoxy Polymers is my epoxy source, I recommend them."


DIY Stitch And Glue Epoxy Boat Building Marine Epoxy TIPS
Stitch and glue boat building with marine epoxy, fiberglass cloth, and plywood GETTING STARTED


Nothing but Quality Products at Good Prices, Great Customer Service, and Lots and Lots of Helpful Information


You're doing business  with:  Paul Oman, MS, MBA -- Member since 1994: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

Former Sailing Instructor -- 1976 Yachting Magazine -- Jr. Article Writing contest 1st place winner -- Boat builder --

Founder: Friday Night Kayaking Club -- "Good Old Boat" magazine advertiser -- Boat US Member since DEC 1980 -- A.K.A "The Epoxy Guru" and Professor E. Poxy. 603 435 7199



Basic No Blush marine epoxy has a long list of private and professional boat builders. Most recently (2016 -2017) The Drummond Island Tall Ship Company built the 72 foot schooner Huron Jewel using Basic No Blush epoxy. (CLICK HERE) Over 160 gallons of epoxy were used - switching from the standard curing agent to the winter and summer curing agents as the seasons changed. Other professional builders include a Drift Boat company, a boat building school, and it was used to construct one of the boats in a 'row across the Atlantic' competition several years ago. Read about the professional restoration of a Thistle Class sailboat with our epoxies. Some of our other epoxies can be applied underwater have been used to rebuild a 100 year old wooden marine railway in 12 feet of water and repair and raise a sunken yacht at a Pacific Island Atoll.  Read all about it in the book "Escape From Hermit Island" available at

From Stitch and Glue kayaks to 72 ft schooners to emergency underwater repairs - you can trust the epoxies from Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. - a Better Business Bureau supporter/member. - Company VIDEO - 603-435-7199



keywords= stitch and glue boat epoxy

Marine Epoxy Links Page ====> Part #2 Epoxy (boat) DIY Sub-Page ====> This 'Linked

To' Stitch and Glue epoxy boat building Sub-Page




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(Basic No Blush)... Great  Product - Easy to use."  David 4/16

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WINTER BOATING: Don't let winter stop you boat repairs/building. Basic No Blush marine epoxy with fast winter cure works down to about 38 degrees. Aluthane mcu aluminum paint can be applied down to about 40 degrees.

So you want to build a boat and you've decided to use the stitch and glue method. That's great! This site is an introduction to that boat construction method. While the boat plans you buy will focus on the 'trees in the forest', we'll take a more broad approach to stitch and glue construction - we'll look at the "forest" and not get bogged down in the 'trees". And we'll talk about the epoxy options and the fiberglass you'll need. And then we'll look at the choices for finishing your new boat.

big job boat building

"Paul Oman (owner of Progressive Epoxy - 603 435 7199) is a very knowledgeable man , and freely shares his knowledge. His products are high quality and as represented. And he answers his phone."  Ralph

"You provide outstanding products, and Fantastic Support. Thank You." Brian S.

"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe


Stitch and Glue

(epoxy, fiberglass, and plywood panels)

DIY Boat Building With Epoxy Resin,

Plywood and Fiberglass cloth

Before you buy anything from anyone, we HIGHLY SUGGEST you CALL 603 435 7199 OR EMAIL US  (24/7/365). Let's make sure you have the right products for the job, an understanding of how to use them and a feel for what might  go wrong.  And if  you purchase our products feel free to CALL OR EMAIL US again (24/7/365)  before you use them for "tips and tricks" or just some "hand-holding." Perhaps when you're done you'll let us put up some of our pictures on our web site.

5 Calls over the 4th of July Weekend!



DIY Stitch and glue boat construction is a lot like sewing.


1)  cut out your pieces of (cloth) wood - generally plywood but also 'solid' wood pieces using a pattern (or more likely directions and dimensions for each piece.  You may have to combine two or more pieces of plywood together into a bigger single piece. There are several methods for doing this with advantages and disadvantages to each method.


2) stitch (sew) them together. Traditionally copper wire was used, but today plastic cable ties are often used instead.


stitch and glue marine epoxy

putting together the pieces


3) generally the next step is to 'glue' the stitched pieces together using thick epoxy (a steady bead or 'spot welds'), or some other kind of glue or adhesive. This is done so that the 'stitches' (wire or cable ties) can be removed (usually pliers and brute force).


stitch and glue boat building project

cable ties removed - ready for fiber-glassing



4) generally a curved 'filet' of thickened epoxy is applied to smooth out the sharp angle between the side panels and the bottom panels of the hull resulting in a smooth gentle curve that can then be smoothly reinforced with epoxy saturated fiberglass cloth.  Personally I like to epoxy/fiberglass the seam first and then 'hide/smooth/even out the fiberglassed seam with a 'cosmetic' filet (which might not even be epoxy, but rather some more easily sandable product).


5) the glued seams are sealed and reinforced with epoxy saturated fiberglass cloth. Usually this is done on both sides of the seams (but I don't think this is necessary on small boats). Any other pieces of the boat are attached (and often secured with epoxy and fiberglass cloth).


Things go better with Fiberglass Cloth

We sell 9 oz fiberglass cloth in 50 yard rolls. Three inch or four inch wide fiberglass "tape". The "tape" is easier for beginners to work with than big sheets of fiberglass - (saturate with epoxy and apply like strips of duct tape). Use for boat-building and/or repair, epoxy pipe wrap projects, and basement leak repair (sort of a dry-wall tape system but using fiberglass cloth and epoxy. Note that when using epoxy and fiberglass cloth, the strength comes from the fiberglass cloth and not the epoxy. - Order the 3 inch or 4 inch fiberglass rolls at either of our on-line stores or call to order your epoxy and cloth - 603 - 435 -7199.


wooden boat buidling stitch and glue

adding non plywood parts



6) next - lots of sanding and filling depending how well you performed the previous steps and how much of a Type A personality you are.


7) finally, paint or varnish as you wish to obtain the 'finished' stitch and glue boat.



"I am reminded of the story about a man who drank a quart of varnish. It was a terrible end, but a beautiful finish."

"Thanks for all your advice, tips & moral support concerning my project. It turned out beautiful. Quality people backing a quality product is the only way to go!" Joe

Member - Better Business Bureau (tm) / New Hampshire shop and buy with confidence

email or call 603 435 7199 SUPPORT - BUY NOW



Often the plans purchased to build the boat are very specific regarding the steps above, but in reality you have lots of personal choices (cable ties vs. wire, size and timing of the fillets, fiberglass size - number of layers of fiberglass - width of the fiberglass 'tape' (generally 3 or 4 inches wide) - fiberglass or not parts or all of the entire hull, etc.


Potential Stitch and Glue Problem Spots That No One Tells You About


I find that one of the toughest tasks, at least for me, is cutting out the plywood pieces. You start with a big, bulky  4 foot by 8 foot piece of plywood and it requires very precise and even cutting - especially when you need matching pieces. And the Pros suggest you 'angle cut' or sand the cuts a certain way so that when  you stitch them together to butt up against each other very tightly. Some folks literally cry when the stitched together pieces have a 1/4 gap between them (I've screwed up and have had gaps over 1 inch - fortunately epoxy and fiberglass can fix even these disasters).


Most folks would like to have at least the inside of their boat finished 'naturally' - i.e. with clear varnish or poly, but if you screw up the cutting and stitching badly (or get sloppy and spill 'stuff' on the wood), you'll have to hide all the 'fixes' under paint.


You might also check the 'true' of the boat after stitching and before you epoxy it together 'hard'.  use a string to measure the distance between the opposite corners of the boat to make sure they are the same. Depending upon the design you might need to make sure that the 'bottom' has the same curve on both sides etc. etc.  Failing to do this can result in a boat with an obvious 'twist' in the hull shape. Fixing might be as simple as re-adjusting the tension on some of the cable ties, or maybe removing a bit of wood from the edge of one of the plywood panels.



Every boat repair project requires knowing product options, selecting the right products in the right amounts and knowing how to use those products. You can only do that with a one-on-one conversation with your product vendor.

Call (603-435-7199) or EMAIL me about what you're doing. We try to earn your business one phone call at a time!


"OK...thanks for the personal touch. And for such an informative website. The navigation took me a while to grasp, but I really appreciate all the credible, helpful information you provide. This is my 3rd or 4th order over the years and I give you a A or A+ grade on all of it.

I'm a nit-picking former Polaris nuclear missile targeting and firing guy so you don't get a good grade from me unless you are on target!" -- Dave   7/14


marine epoxy

Big Boat Building Project? Our BASIC NO BLUSH  marine epoxy can be purchased in any gal amount over 15 gal, packed in 5 gal pails and shipped direct from the factory. Our regular 1.5 gal kits are always in stock for immediate shipping. Find Basic No Blush epoxy with pricing, in the marine epoxy section of our catalog - or call 603 - 435 -7199


One of our marine epoxy competitors (now a mere impersonal, product line sub-division within a big industrial corporation) claims a 30% savings in time using non blushing marine epoxies. Non blushing marine epoxies do not require washing or sanding between epoxy coats or top coating with other paints. Note that we offer Basic No Blush marine epoxy with fast, slow and regular curing agents (and it also includes bubble breakers for a more perfect finish). Our Premium No Bush epoxy is Nonyl free and uses an special curing agent is can be air shipped (shipped without restrictions). 



Why Basic No Blush  (tm) epoxy is the BEST in its class:

1. A formulated blended resin system (not repackaged raw chemicals)

2) Uses NON BLUSHING curing agent for blush free results

3) not too thick, not too thin, not too brittle - ever see an epoxy surface with millions of tiny cracks? It is brittle, repackaged (see #1) not formulated epoxy

4) the only marine type epoxy with bubble breakers for superior flaw free finishes and uniform properties and appearance and allows for thicker, multiple layers with better clarity

5) the only epoxy adduct marine type epoxy for superior enhanced properties (standard cure only)

6) strong user support / feedback

7) 24/7 support email

8) less expensive than the other formulated epoxies which still don't have many of the advantages listed here



air shippable     cycloaliphatic system  
no nonyl phenol     epoxy adduct system xx
multi curing agents xx   bulk pricing xx
solvent free xx   no Calif. sales  
2 part epoxy xx   2 part poly  
apply underwater     bubble breakers xx
favorite(s) product list xx   data sheets xx
PACKING - jugs/bottles xx   PACKING - cans xx
find in non marine cat xx   find in marine catalog xx
PRICES/ind/commercial xx   PRICES/marine section xx
BUY online

simple store

    BUY online

primary store

home page xx   contact page xx


Exterior Natural Wood Finish with No Blush Epoxy  (tm) and Marine Spar Varnish

This application is boat windows, but could also be done on exterior door, table, bar top

  "(5/2019) Paul;

Attached is a picture of two of the 14 frames I have made for the windows and door of my tugboat (Candu-EZ 14'3" model) named Electra. I wanted to share with you my excitement regarding the use of Progressive Polymers No Blush Epoxy as a sanding sealer/stain. Here is my process in the event that you would want to share it with others.

Substrate is african mahogany.

Final sand with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth finish, wipe with alcohol dampened cloth or paper towel and remove dust with tack rag.

Mix No Blush Epoxy according to weight ratio of 1 part resin to 0.42 part standard hardner (I don't recommend the fast hardener for reasons that will appear later).

Add alcohol based stain (Behlen Solar LuxTM NGR Medium-Brown Mahogany Stain) 25% W/W and mix well.

Apply with inexpensive chip brush and brush out well. Caution: be sure that the finish is brushed out well to avoid runs and "edge lips", which are hard to remove without removing more wood due to the epoxy base.

Sand lightly with 220 grit and reapply as necessary, (i.e., missed spots or areas in which the sandpaper may have removed too much color).

The next step will be the application of Varnish to the tune of about 7 coats
(vendor note: most folks would apply 1 - 3 coats of varnish - besides the Basic No Blush (with bubble breakers) epoxy, we also sell India Spar Varnish) -- (but less than what would be needed if not epoxy sealer were used)."

Additional Customer Notes and Comments

"Thinning the "No Blush" with alcohol based stain works well in this case. Initially, I used both 91% Isopropyl alcohol along with the stain as a thinner, but I found the Isopropyl alcohol to be unnecessary for the depth of color that I desired.

I used some wood filler to deal with some imperfections in my wood routing techniques. While the stain/epoxy mixture did color them, it did not do so at the same intensity as the wood itself. In retrospect, i believe the better solution would be to leave the imperfections alone (smooth them of course) and fill them with stain filler stix that Behlen also has in corresponding colors.

Using an alcohol based stain as a thinner for the epoxy appears to have some impact on the thinning duration (i.e. the mixture thickens over time). This appears to be a function of the relatively rapid evaporation of the alcohol which has the effect of an increase in viscosity over a a period of 15 minutes or so. As a result, the color impact of the mixture becomes somewhat more intense. Therefore, I recommend keeping the batch size small, probably no more than 3 oz (liquid measure) total volume at a time. In this way, the color consistency was very good and given the spreadability of the mixture, coverage was adequate to prevent slowing down the staining/sealing process of a number of the frames pictured at one time.

Again, thank you for your support and your knowledge AND for a great product." - BOB  5/19

Other Options:  Instead of the honey thick, solvent free, Basic No Blush epoxy, the same results could be had using our solvent free, thinner Low V epoxy or even our solvent based, water thin, ESP 155 epoxy sealer (not for sale in California). Read about these product options in our Favorites Page. - These options are all available because we are a technical coatings/epoxy company and not a single product / single industry marketing company.


Additional product information/mentions about BASIC NO BLUSH can also be found at the following site(s) -

Additional product information/mentions about BASIC NO BLUSH can also be found at the following  MOBILE FRIENDLY site(s) - ----



* India Spar Varnish (in non epoxy section)

*Fiberglass cloth/tape

* Epoxy rollers (2 kinds - thin for marine and thick for stones)

* 2 part clear poly with UV blockers (no Calif sales)

* Marine Spar Varnish top coat

* Fillers and thickeners

* Pumps for 1.5 gal units

* Film thickness gauge

* Fast or slow curing agent options

* TA 155 (trowel aid) for creating pebble decks


 Find in 1-page summary site (marine) with links and prices
Find in 1-page summary site (non-marine) with links and prices


Epoxy Crazing Notice/Warning

There are two types of Marine Epoxy Vendors: 1) discount, bulk, REPACKAGERS who simple buy drums of raw resin and raw curing agent(s) from the big chemical companies and fill plastic jugs for resale; 2) FORMULATORS take the raw epoxy chemicals add to them to enhance and improve the raw "moonshine" into a "fine whiskey". Learn more repackagers/formulators.

Our Basic No Blush (tm) is a formulated non blushing epoxy by Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (homepage). that includes additions for reduced brittleness and exclusive (only we have it)  bubble breakers for a more perfect looking finish. Basic No Blush is the least expensive of the formulated epoxies and considered the best marine epoxy by many ex-users of the other formulated epoxies.

REPACKAGED EPOXY WARNING: Over the years I have seen and had reports of non-formulated, raw resin/cure epoxies (which are extremely hard and brittle) becoming crazed with millions of cracks (like shattered safety glass) in outdoor settings that experience big changes in temperature. Formulated epoxies  all seem to be 'fixed' to allow for this expansion and contraction without cracking by making them less brittle and better able to handle internal stresses.

Marine Catalog  ///// Stitch n Glue ///// Epoxy Only Google Search ///// Epoxy Guru Help Site ///// Marine Boat Epoxy Etc. Links

"I've been using the Basic No Blush epoxy on all my own stuff, and using up all the West epoxy on most customers boats. When the West is finally gone I'll only be using your epoxies. Good stuff. I'm rebuilding an old Rybovich so a big order in the future..." Patrick (comment with on-line order 9/4/07)  ----  Order No Blush online



This product is a Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. best selling, favorite product. Visit our FAVORITES - 7 EPOXIES THAT WILL FIX ANYTHING  web page at: View other popular one-of-a-kind products.


Custom Drift Boats

Check them out at:

Croff Craft - just one of our commercial boat builders that use our

Basic No Blush marine epoxy and India Spar Varnish

Professional Restoration of Wooden Thistle Class Sailboat - link to


To Do or Not To Do - Stitch and Glue (epoxy plywood) User Options


-- Often the plans purchased to build the boat are very specific regarding construction, but in reality you have lots of personal choices (cable ties vs. wire, size and timing of the fillets, fiberglass size - number of layers of fiberglass - width of the fiberglass 'tape' (generally 3 or 4 inches wide) - fiberglass or not parts or all of the entire hull, etc.


SEALING THE PLYWOOD: Plywood comes in different grades and qualities. Some hold up better to water, sun and weather better than others (and can cost a lot more!). In hindsight, I like coating all the plywood surfaces with two or more coats of solvent thinned epoxy to help seal the plywood for the elements (and as a bond coat in places you will be using epoxy and fiberglass cloth).  The edges of the plywood are areas that really could use the sealing - they are the weak link. Instead of thinned epoxy, I personally like a product called Aluthane (tm)

This product is featured on the website

which is a thin, one part aluminum based paint as an easier alternative to thinned epoxy to seal the wood. Thinned epoxy tends to drip and sag easily so you can make easily turn a simple sealing coat into a major mess requiring tons of sanding to fix. Either way, it is best to pieces before you assemble the boat so that you can seal/prime then when they are flat on the ground and the sealer coating will not sag or drip. I tend to make this mistake because I am too anxious to start putting the pieces together and create something that starts looking something like a boat.


GLASSING THE SEAMS: Most plans call for fiberglass cloth (tape) on both sides of the major seams (like the sides and bottom), but I don't think the fiberglass is necessary for most boats on the outside side of the seam.  I just use exterior putty to smooth that outside seam. If  you use fiberglass cloth you will see the edges of it under your final paint unless you are very good at fairing and sanding the edges of the fiberglass against the plywood. And you sanding of the fiberglass can often sand through the fiberglass right at the seam where you needed it the most. Then, what was the use of the fiberglass anyway?  So, skipping the fiberglass on the outside seams saves what can be for most of us a major headache.


stitch and glue boat construction

fiber-glassing the seams


Most plans call for 3 inch wide or 4 inch wide fiberglass tape/cloth. I like using two strips of 3 inch fiberglass tape, overlapping them and inch or so. This gives 2 layers of 'glass' over the critical seam area.


On larger boats, the exterior (and sometimes interior) wood surfaces are all covered with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. This adds lots of strength (strength comes mostly from the fiberglass cloth), but also lots of weight.


FILLET OPTIONS:  Curved epoxy fillets along where the sides and bottom of the boat meet add strength and provide a gentle curve for a fiberglass skin. That said, I like to fiberglass the seam without the gentle fillet curve (there will be lots of voids and air bubbles under the fiberglass along the seam) then put (create) the fillet over the uneven fiberglass tape filling, masking and hiding the fiberglass tape under it.


FILLING IN THE FIBERGLASS WEAVE: Your initial coat of clear marine epoxy on the white fiberglass cloth will turn the cloth clear but the weave of the cloth will still be exposed. Most folks want to hide the cloth weave. It can take 2 or 3 or more coats of brushed on epoxy to finally fill in the weave.  An alternative, if you plan to paint and not 'clear coat' with varnish or poly for natural look, is to use thickened epoxy or conventional putty to fill in the weave (followed by more sanding). So people like to leave the fiberglass weave exposed on the inside of the boat, letting it serve as a non skid surface. If keeping the weight of the boat down is important, then leaving the extra epoxy off is also an option (epoxy is about 10 pounds per gallon).


The way you treat the fiberglass weave issue will greatly affect how much epoxy you ultimately use.



Stitch and Glue Construction Tip and Tricks


SANDING:  get a coarse sanding pad for your right angle grinder (replacing the 'metal' wheel). Just a brief tough and epoxy lumps, excess wood etc. disappears.


FINAL PRIMER COAT: I find that when I'm done sanding, grinding, applying putty etc. It is best to apply a solid color paint or primer over everything that will not be finished natural with varnish. I like aluthane for this. It seals the putty and other fixes. More importantly, the uniform colored finish shows places that looked fine before but still need more attention/sanding/leveling. It also gives a uniform base coat of color and texture under your final topcoat.


FINISH COAT:  exterior latex 'house and trim' paint works well - just not high gloss. The house paint market is so huge, that is where the paint companies put their research dollars and competition keeps quality and prices good. Look how many years wooden beach houses go between paint jobs. Of course you can also use hardware store enamel paint, or just about anything else  you want to use.



Epoxy and Fiberglass Notes Boat Building



THICKENED EPOXY: There are several different products you can use to turn the honey like epoxy into a paste or cream or putty. Note that all these thickeners will turn the clear epoxy into a colored epoxy (usually a white or off white or a tan). No clear, thick epoxy. Fumed silica is the most common thickener. It is very light and somewhat difficult to blend into the epoxy. Wood flour is very fine saw dust and results in a tan color. Other fillers, like EZ thick (cellulose dust) are also often used. Note that it takes about 2 parts of thickener to 1 part of epoxy to make about 1 part of thickened epoxy.


Pre thickened epoxy, like Wet Dry 700 (tm) which is thickened with Kevlar (tm) and feldspar is another option (for excellent for 'fixing' those construction 'mistakes").


kayak building stitch and glue epoxy

adding access ports, other tasks



Marine Epoxy Product Recommendations

For Stitch and Glue boat construction


Basic No Blush (tm) marine epoxy is our product. It has its own web page - CLICK). Basic No Bush is a formulated epoxy. Only 4 or 5 marine epoxies are formulated epoxies. This means their manufacturer begins with the raw resins and curing agents made by the major chemical companies and then adjusts/adds to them to formulate their marine epoxy.

"I just wanted to let you know that a couple of months ago I purchased 1.5 gallons of epoxy from you for injection into a port stringer on a waterski boat I recently purchased.  I have owned quite a number of boats power and sail requiring repairs to bring them back to where they should be. Your product was excellent in every respect. I thinned it myself to the specifications I felt the repair required and it turned out superb in every regard. I will be using your product in the future for blister repairs to a large sailboat I own and just wanted to thank you for providing an excellent product with value to the consumer."  Best Regards, Steve

 (email 12/16/13 to Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. -- -- attn: Paul Oman)


This product is featured on the website

The other marine epoxy vendors (the low price guys) are 'barrel to jug' repackagers. They simply order jugs of material from the major chemical companies and pour those resins directly into jugs for sale to end users. 


marine epoxy school

Basic No Blush being used at  boat

building school in the Pacific NW

(no better endorsement than that!)

The Wind & Oar Boat School is located in Portland, OR ( Currently (7/11) they are working on a St Ayles skiff, with a group of 10 completely novice women doing the build. Its the first all women build and the first on the west coast. The St Ayles Skiff is a Iain Oughtred design done for the Scottish Fisheries Museum and now the cornerstone of the Scottish Coastal Rowing Project ( Last fall WoodenBoat Publications picked up the concept and got 5 high schools in Maine to start the boat and I am mirroring the idea for high schools in Portland. The first youth boat will start this fall but in the mean time a group of women approached me about building one too. The Wind & Oar Boat School is building communities through building boats. We encourage groups of all shapes and sizes to experience the camaraderie, team building, collaboration, and self confidence that arise from working towards a common goal.

When it came time to decide about epoxies, the school turned to Michael Bogoger (Dory-man) for advice. He suggested your product and we've been extremely happy with it. The forgiving nature of the Basic No-Blush (tm) marine epoxy has been ideal for a school situation where many people are mixing and consistency is not necessarily high. Michael has covered our build on his blog several times and this link is to one of his posts where you can see us using the No Blush epoxy  product.

Whether you want a group team building exercise or a grade school introduction to wood and water, the Wind & Oar Boat School will tailor a course to fit your needs. Our first build is a group of 10 women, of diverse ages, who without any woodworking experience are now building a 22 foot St Ayles Skiff.


WOW!  35% - 40% of all daily online or telephone orders are from existing  customers. That's an amazing 'REPEAT CUSTOMER" number.


603 - 435 - 7199 ANYTIME 24/7 FOR HELP OR ORDERS


Why Basic No Blush epoxy is the BEST in its class:

1. A formulated blended resin system (not repackaged raw chemicals)

2) Uses only NON BLUSHING curing agents

3) not too thick, not too thin, not too brittle

4) strong user support / feedback

5) 24/7 support



Order this EPOXY product NOW



Price - Basic No Blush marine epoxy is about half the price of the other formulated epoxies and about the same price as the repackaged marine epoxies (sometimes even much less). This is possible because the company doesn't use distributors or agents, has no 800 phone number, slick printed catalogs, or trade show booths. These savings get passed onto the customer when they purchase from the on-line store. - More info - CLICK.




boat building marine epoxy

Progressive Epoxy Polymers ( Attn: Paul,

Attached is a zip file with photos, plan view, vessel description, and some shots of the previous builds of the same boat. I am using your Basic No-Blush marine epoxy as my sole epoxy coating & glue solution throughout this entire project and I just love your product! Having used all the major brands on the market today I find your epoxy to be the easiest, most consistent, and most forgiving marine epoxy product of them all.

This boat is being built in an unheated, semi-weather tight workshop, on an island on Lake Winnipesaukee (central New Hampshire) and consequently I'm more often working in temperatures outside of what is optimal for most epoxies. I've had success with your epoxy (with the Regular curing agent) setting up in temps in the low 50's and also behaving kindly with temps in the upper 80s to 90+. While pot life varies considerably in such a wide range your product is very consistent, predictable, and telling when it's time to 'wrap it up', which is definitely not so much the case with some of your competitors.

In addition, your pricing is very attractive and while price is not the primary reason why I use your product I definitely appreciate the value you offer, so thank you.

Jeff - 2014 - Offshore Skiff boat builder

basic no blush epoxy marine

basic no blush epoxy

Originally designed for Offshore Magazine, the Offshore Skiff was intended to be an economical shoal-draft family cruiser or alternately--in the open center-console version--an all-around utility boat. A skiff. of course, is any fairly small, shoal, economical vessel. She could be a 15-foot rowboat, a 30-foot Jersey sea skiff, or even a 36-foot 17,000-pound Sea Bright skiff. The Offshore Skiff, falls nicely in the middle of this range at 28-feet 3-inches overall , 24-feet waterline, 8-foot beam. 5400-pound displacement, and drawing a scant 1 1 inches to the bottom of her hull. (She draws 26 inches to the bottom of her outboard.)

basic no blush epoxy


Massive Boat Links Site

Buy Now ("marine epoxy" in NAVIGATION BAR)



Basic No Blush is a 'non blushing' epoxy. The competitor's primary epoxies all can produce as waxy film on the epoxy surface when the epoxy cures called "blush". This product uses more expensive curing agents that do not blush. - More info - CLICK.


Basic No Blush marine epoxy is offered with a slow summer curing agent for use in hot weather and a fast winter curing agent for use in temperatures just above freezing. This makes it ideal for winter boat building projects in unheated spaces in the northern states.


boat building school with marine epoxy

boat building school



Basic No Blush Epoxy  VS


Premium No Blush Epoxy
BASIC NO BLUSH™ - our most popular all purpose marine epoxy  resin - great value and price! PREMIUM NO BLUSH™ - non-hazmat for quick AIR shipping and shipping outside the USA - cycloaliphatic curing system Worth considering if you want the Very Best
non blushing

very clear

easy mix ratio (1 : 2)

blendable hardeners ---  slow summer, regular and fast winter curing agents

nice medium viscosity

no VOCs (solvent free)

no formaldehyde in the formulation

formulated product - not simply repackaged raw resins from the big chemical companies

best prices!

bubble breakers in the Part A resin.



non blushing

easy mix ratio (1.5 : 2)

cycloaliphatic curing system

nice medium viscosity

no VOCs (solvent free)

no formaldehyde in the formulation found in some of the popular epoxies

no nonyl phenol in the formulation (98% of epoxies contain Nonyl Phenol) no-nonyl means healthier and no reaction with enamel paint

formulated product - not simply repackaged raw resins from the big chemical companies

non hazmat to ship!

Amber colored curing agent helps bring out the color of natural wood finishes


  We do have regular customers that exclusively like and use the Premium No Blush over the Basic No Blush. The amber non hazmat curing agent (the Basic No Blush has a clear curing agent) provides a bit of warm color and maybe hides some of the UV Yellowing. I've hard reports that it is a slightly softer finish too (soft means more impact resistance). A very Premium marine epoxy at a price of about that the other guy's charge for their 'regular' epoxy.


WE'RE THE BEST SOURCE FOR ALL BOATING RELATED EPOXIES AND COATING! HERE'S WHY: No matter if your boat repair/building project is sitting in a 39 degree barn or sunk in 10 feet of water in the local harbor, our epoxies can save your day. We have Kevlar (tm) reinforced epoxies, marine non-blushing epoxies with bubble breaker additives (no one else has that!), two part polys in white or clear, and old fashion spar varnish. The clear has massive amounts of UV blockers. Need an epoxy  barrier coat or an epoxy sealer/primer for that old weathered fiberglass hull? Does you hull have blisters? Need a thickened epoxy or DIY epoxy thickeners? Does the pontoon boat leak? Need to repair a spongy, rotting deck core? We can do all of that and also save your sinking or sunk boat AND help you build that stitch and glue kayak or 72 foot schooner (they used 200 gallons of our epoxy!). PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS INC. (marine catalog) or just call us 603 - 435 -7199 - available nights and weekends. Email anytime. - TOP FAVORITE EPOXIES  ---  WEB BOAT REPAIR LINKS  ---  BOAT EYE CANDY!


We really appreciate you visiting PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC. and our web site: EPOXYPRODUCTS.COM.  Take advantage of the CONTACT links on this page to ask questions about our products and/or your projects. You can stay in touch with us via our NEWSLETTER (link on our contact page) which is emailed  every 6-8 weeks.

Epoxy Only Web Google Search



#1) Google Everything Epoxy Searches

#2) Google Marine Epoxies Searches

#3)Google Floor Epoxy Searches

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This current page is all about:


DIY Stitch And Glue Epoxy Boat Building Marine Epoxy TIPS
Stitch and glue boat building with marine epoxy, fiberglass cloth, and plywood GETTING STARTED


Find Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy, aluthane (tm), wet dry 700 (tm) epoxy putty, and fiberglass - 3 inch and 4 inch by 50 yards, fillers and  thickeners in our marine catalog. - CLICK HERE. Most projects take 3 to 8 gallons of epoxy. We suggest you purchase one or two 1.5 gal units of Basic No Blush and reorder when you get low and have a better clue on how much you will need.


Customer feedback and comments on Basic No Blush marine epoxy - CLICK HERE Basic No Blush marine epoxy.

Quick Buy -- BASIC NO BLUSH (tm) MARINE EPOXY -- Now

epoxy plywood boat

See stitch and glue winter boat projects.....

Building the Stitch and Glue, plywood, "Portuguese Style Dinghy" (winter 2008/2009) - CLICK HERE

Building TOTO (winter 2007/2008) - a plywood Stitch and Glue Kayak - CLICK HERE


Questions? Comments? What to Order by Phone?  We're available by phone or email (email usually seven days a week) - Visit our Contact Page or "ask the professor"

Epoxy Resin questions?  Stitch and Glue question? Ask the Professor - CLICK .

Where to Use India Spar Varnish

Our India Spar Varnish has three primary applications. 1) applied over a thick or thin layer of epoxy used on table tops and bar tops. Vanish provides necessary UV protection that all epoxies need as well as a wear surface that can be polished to a mirror finish. 2) Varnish is used on 'natural' wood finishes on boats. Again, generally over epoxy (such as in Stitch - and - Glue  or wood strip construction)  but sometimes directly on the wood. If you using our Basic No Blush marine  epoxy (why not?) be sure to wash off and remove any amine blush that might have formed on the surface of the epoxy before you varnish it. Note that spar varnish is a solvent based coating that has been time tested for over a century on boats out in the sun and weather 24/7. You won't find any modern "polyurethanes " on these boats (keep the urethanes for indoor use - better still, use India Spar Varnish on inside applications too). 3) Use India Spar Varnish over naturally finished wood floors, usually over an epoxy primer - ESP 155 (or thicker epoxy like LOW V epoxy - used on shipping container floors) applied over the wood and under the varnish. ONLINE STORE Purchase Here - Cannot be shipped to California.



Why Buy From  us - CLICK

marine epoxy pricing - CLICK  -------  evaluate epoxy vendors - CLICK 

product user feedback - CLICK -------- who we are - CLICK



Add Wet Dry 700 kevlar (tm) based epoxy putty to your Boat Project

Jeff (1/2013)

I cannot believe how incredible this Wet Dry 700 is. It's revolutionary. The original repair to my storm shelter would have lasted years if the shelter would just stop shifting around in the ground. DON'T STOP SELLING THIS STUFF.

 (10/2013)     Comments: Returning  -  Underwater boat repair

My third or fourth order and am still quite pleased with the result. It has many uses above and below the water line.

The only Epoxy Putty reinforced with Kevlar (tm) microfibers and feldspar ceramic for an incredible hard and tough product. This is a hard working epoxy paste (about as thick as wall mud or cake icing).

Can be applied Underwater too! (it has saved lots of boats, leaking swimming pools and sinking floating homes) - Nothing else like it in the market.

Find in our marine catalog (section c_putty)

Order this EPOXY product NOW


The Marine Epoxy Everything Guide

Everything from user reviews, repair examples,

pricing issues and vendor evaluation tips


Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy Product Page

Marine Epoxy Catalog page (multiple epoxies)

Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy User Reviews / Feedback

How To Evaluating Marine Epoxy brands and Vendors

Marine Epoxy prices - what it really costs!

Marine Epoxy amine blush - what is epoxy Blush?

Boat repair examples using Marine Epoxy

Dinghy Marine Epoxy boat repair case study

Progressive Epoxy Polymer's marine web site

Buy two part Marine Epoxy now

Massive site of Internet boat links


We also have Internet floor epoxy links!


Epoxy "Stab Brush" --  "Regular Brush"

Use with products on this page

buy separately or include with your order

STAB BRUSH - 3 inch wide with 3/4 inch bristles. Most epoxies are too thick for a regular brush. Stab brushes allow you to push and move the epoxy around and 'stab' or poke it into cracks, voids, and corners

REGULAR BRUSH - 2 inch wide and extra thick with synthetic bristles. Use with varnish, paints and thin epoxies. Priced for disposable use.

Find Stab Brushes and Regular Brushes in our MARINE CATALOG or in our HOME/COMMERCIAL CATALOG

Goto our 3rd party storefront and purchase in the MISC SECTION






basic no blush (tm)


corro coat FC 2100; NSP 120; water gard 300; coal tar ; CM 15; crack coat™


fumed silica; microsphere/balloons; poly fibers; copper; graphite; Teflon (tm); wood flour; EZ thick; rock flour


Section B FLOOR EPOXIES (regular and non-skid products), SEALERS, ACCESSORIES

water bond (water based); solvent free industrial floor epoxy; bio vee seal; water based floor epoxy, floor epoxy with grit; walnut shell; ground white rubber grit


wet/dry 700; splash zone; quick fix 2300, QR 2400 rubber epoxy


wet/dry 700; splash zone A-788, quick fix 2300; QR 2400 (tm) rubber epoxy

Section Four TWO PART EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)

corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; EZ Spray; epoxy primer; crack coat™


low V epoxy; basic no blush; ESP 155; Bio-Clear 810

Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS Aluthane (aluminum coating); LPU Marine


Aluthane moisture cured urethane; Acrylic Poly UV Plus and other 2 part polys ; Capt. Tolley's creeping crack sealer


walnut shell; ground white rubber



fumed silica; fiber fill; micro balloons/micro-spheres; graphite; Teflon (tm); copper powder; wood flour; EZ thick, rock flour


pipe wrap; fiberglass tape (cloth); Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure


short nap rollers; TA 661 (solvent free epoxy clean-up); 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors



One page summary/prices - marine catalog

One page summary/prices -DIY/HOME catalog



internet boat links page

internet floor links page

Internet DIY repair links page

Call (603-435-7199) or EMAIL with questions /phone orders etc. about what you're doing. We try to earn your business one phone call at a time!



sailing boat

Progressive Epoxy Polymers'  Paul Oman

solo sailing his former Coronado 25, "Temptress "

on Galveston Bay - early 1990s



Epoxy Essentials (tm)


Reasons for coating failures

Preparation problem 70%; application problem 12%; environment problem 6%; wrong paint selection 9%; bad paint 1%; adding thinner 2%

"At least 70% of premature coatings failures are traced back to 'surface preparation' whether referring to wood, concrete, or metal. In a commercial recoating project, the costs (and profit) associated with surface preparation are about 70% of the job. How extensive the surface preparation is will depend on the performance expectation of the owner... Know the A, B, C's of surface preparation - visible contaminants, invisible contaminants, and profile."


Dr. Lydia Frenzel, The ABCs of Surface Preparation, Cleaner Times, April 2001, pg. 42-44.



Epoxy coatings are used because of their outstanding chemical resistance, durability, low porosity and strong bond strength.

Epoxies consist of a ‘base' and a ‘curing' agent. The two components are mixed in a certain ratio. A chemical reaction occurs between the two parts generating heat (exotherm) and hardening the mixture into an inert, hard ‘plastic'.

Epoxies yellow, chalk (or more commonly least lose their gloss), in direct sunlight (UV). The yellowing can be a real problem. For pigmented epoxies select colors that are dark or contain a lot of yellow (such as green). Even clear epoxies will yellow and cloud up. Often epoxies are top coated with latex or urethanes that will retain their color and attractive gloss. This is particularly true if color coding or matching company colors is important.

Epoxies will harden in minutes or hours, but complete cure (hardening) will generally take several days. Most epoxies will be suitably hard within a day or so, but may require more time to harden before the coating can be sanded.

By their nature, epoxies are hard and brittle. Additives can be added to epoxies that make them less brittle, but generally at the loss or reduction of other positive epoxy properties such as chemical resistance.

Other clues of cheap epoxies include ‘induction time' (after mixing the two components the mixture must sit for several minutes to ‘self cook' before being applied).

The best time to recoat epoxy is within about 48 hours after the initial coat. Because epoxies take days to reach full cure, a second coat applied shortly after the first coat will partially fuse to the first coat rather than forming a simple mechanical bond.

End users can thicken epoxy with many things, Tiny glass spheres, known as micro-spheres or micro-balloons are commonly used. Besides thickening, their crushable nature makes sanding the hardened epoxy easier. On the downside, they work like tiny ball bearings, resulting is sagging and slumping. Another thickener is fumed silica (a common brand name is Cabosil (tm)) which looks like fake snow. About 2 parts fumed silica with one part epoxy will produce a mixture similar in texture and thickness to petroleum jelly. Micro-spheres and fumed silica can be combined together.

Fisheyes are areas on a painted surface where the coating literally pulls away for the substrate leaving a coatingless void or fisheye. Often fisheyes are caused by surface contaminants such as a bit of silicon, wax, or oil. I have also seen them on clean plywood where epoxies paints have been used as sealers and the problem might be due to uneven saturation (soaking-in) of the epoxy into the wood. Surface tension plays a big part in fisheyeing. There are some additives that can be mixed into the epoxy that will reduce surface tension. Likewise, on wood, applying several coats of solvent thinned epoxy, instead of one coat of unthinned epoxy, seems to work well. Applying a thick coat of epoxy over a contaminated fisheye surface will bury the fisheye but expect the coating to peel away in the future. As a rule of thumb, always suspect some sort of surface contamination as the primary cause of fisheyeing.

Adding a bit of solvent to a solvent based or solvent-free epoxy is something that most manufacturers would not officially approve of and something that might not work with all epoxies. However, it can be done (unofficially) with the epoxies I deal with. Adding solvent to these epoxies will: 1) thin them out; 2) increase pot life; 3) allows them to flow off the brush/roller a bit more smoothly; and 4) perhaps allows them to ‘soak-in', penetrate, or may be soften, the substrate just a little bit. Not change is visible in the epoxy unless 12% or greater solvent is added. With that amount of solvent, the epoxies no longer cure with a glossy finish.

It is best to use epoxies with a mix ratio close to 1 to 1 as opposed to something 4-1, 5-1, etc. because errors in the mix ratios can be more pronounced with the latter. That said, no matter what the mix ratio is, some epoxies are more forgiving of mix ratio errors than others. One ‘trick' of epoxy vendors with odd or very sensitive mix ratios is to sell calibrated pumps that disperse the epoxy components in exact amounts.

How Thick? How thick should your coating be? Economics play a major role in determining how much coating to apply. One U.S. gallon contains 231 cubic inches. That's only 1.6 cubic square feet of surface at one inch thick and that's also assuming a solvent-free product. If the product is 25% VOC (i.e. 25% solvent) then dry thickness/coverage will be 25% less. Again, assuming a 1/4 inch thick coating (250 mils) maximum coverage will still be only 6.4 square feet per gallon. A solvent-free (100% solids) epoxy coating applied at 16 mils will cover 100 square feet per gallon (note: the wall paint in your office is probably 2-4 mils). While thick coatings sound like a good idea, they use so much product that they must be made very cheaply so that coating 1,000 or 10,000 square feet can still be done at a competitive price. A high quality, fairly expensive product with a coverage rate of 100 sq. feet or more per gallon, on the other hand, will have a low enough cost per sq. foot to provide both economy and top quality.

Epoxy Only Web Google Search



#1) Google Everything Epoxy Searches

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Fiberglass Laminating

Pebble Stone Surfacing



Easy 2:1Mixing Ratio

Contains no carcinogens

Medium Viscosity

Three Different Curing Agents






Basic No-Blush™ is a 100% solids, marine grade epoxy coating system designed for general marine/

boating applications. It will not blush or water spot under normal conditions. It is available with three

different curing agents, a fast cold weather (a slightly yellow curing agent), our standard clear curing

agent, and a thicker, amber colored slow warm weather curing agent. The standard cure version is also

widely used for resealing epoxy/pebble flooring systems.


The slow summer curing version is ‘viscosity adjusted’. Because epoxies become thinner (less viscous)

in warmer weather, the summer curing agent has been thickened to approximate the viscosity of

the standard No-Blush epoxy at approximately 70F.




Creating and maintaining pebble/epoxy decks





Excellent chemical resistance

Convenient 2 to 1 ratio by volume ( 1 to .422 by weight) base/cure - Standard cure

Superior adhesion to cold, damp surfaces




Approximate viscosity at 72F:

Standard/Winter Summer

Part A: 900 cps 900 cps

Part B: 175 cps 4,500 cps

Mixed: 600 cps 2,000 cps







COMPRESSIVESTRENGTH .......... ASTMD695    9,500 psi /9,200 psi  (STANDARD/SUMMER)


TENSILESTRENGTH.................... ASTMD638    6,200 psi /8,600 psi



CS-17WHEEL, 1 kg LOAD ............ ASTMD4060   0.20 gm loss /0.20 gm loss


WATERABSORPTION.................. ASTMD570   0.16% /0.16 %

(2 hour boil)


FLEXURALSTRENGTH................ ASTMD790   5,500 psi /5,500 psi


SHORE D HARDNESS ................. ASTMD2240   90 /78


HEATDISTORTION...................... ASTMD649   125F /125 F



LAPSHEAR.................................. 2,200 psi /2,250 psi





 Wet Dry 700 Epoxy

Ultimate Repair Epoxy Paste

Above and below the Waterline

Like Nothing You Have Ever Worked With Before!

Need to fix, glue, patch, fill, bond, coat or cover something underwater? Need to reinforce/wrap corroded, damaged or leaking pipes (with epoxy and fiberglass cloth)? Need to do a fiberglass cloth and epoxy repair with a non sagging epoxy paste? (even underwater?). How about sealing electrical connections in a ‘glob’ of waterproof epoxy? Patching some wood rot? One of our customers repaired serious rot in an 100 year old marine railway submerged under 12 feet of water.

Wet Dry 700 has saved sinking boats (and sunk boats - read Escape From Hermit Island available at The authors recommend you don’t leave your dock without this epoxy - see It is also used on leaking pools and corroding barge mounted floating homes.

Welcome to the world of Wet Dry 700 (tm) Epoxy

Wet Dry 700 (tm) epoxy paste is a leading example of consumer driven epoxy technology, resulting in a versatile, field friendly repair product for difficult environments. Wet Dry is a solvent free, high performance epoxy reinforced with kevlar (tm) pulp and feldspar/ceramic. It can be applied to wet, damp, or dry surfaces.

Wet Dry 700 looks a bit like joint compound (dry wall mud), or cake icing with a simple 1 to 1 mix ratio that you can ‘eyeball’. A scoop of Part A and an equal scoop of Part B and you are ready to go.

This is one of our top selling epoxies. People first buy it for a specific project and then generally buy more just to have on hand.

"I cannot believe how incredible this Wet Dry 700 is. It's revolutionary. The original repair to my storm shelter would have lasted years if the shelter would just shifting around in the ground. DON'T STOP SELLING THIS STUFF!"  Jeff 1/2013

Order this EPOXY product NOW

(10/2013)     Comments: Returning  -  Underwater repair

"My third or fourth order and am still quite pleased with the result. It has many uses above and below the water line"

Another Amazing ProductALUTHANE aluminum Moisture Cured Urethane Coating - corrosion fighting, heat reflecting, temperature resistant sealer, primer, top coat. Use on wood, metal, fiberglass, cement. READ MORE


Amazing Products - Amazing Support 

(see our home page CLICK HERE)

data sheets and msds and SDS sheets at





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DIY Stitch And Glue Epoxy Boat Building Marine Epoxy TIPS
Stitch and glue boat building with marine epoxy, fiberglass cloth, and plywood GETTING STARTED


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