PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC.
Nothing but Quality Products at Good Prices, Great Customer Service, and Lots and Lots of Helpful Information
and NO SALES TAX - You are shopping in TAX FREE New Hampshire
APPREHENSIVE?New to Epoxies? (They can be $$$). Let's talk (603 - 435 - 7199 or EMAIL) and put yourself at ease with a 1 on 1 conversation about your project, which products will work best for you, and how to use them. After purchase "handholding", support, and encouragement are also available anytime. We freely share our 20 plus years of epoxy experience and problem solving experience. If our owner, Paul Oman, is not available he will return your call quickly. Emails are answered all day long. Without potential customers, repeat customers, and friends like you that want some free, quick advice, New Hampshire based Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc., a Better Business Bureau member, would not exist. Thank you in advance and thank you for visiting epoxyproducts.com. We appreciate you interest in our company.
PRIMARY STORE LINK --- TOP SELLING PRODUCTS --- EPOXY GURU HELP SITE --- EPOXY DATA SHEETS
TWO PART CLEAR EPOXY RESIN PRODUCTS
There are lots of reasons for putting a clear coat finish over surfaces and even more clear coat products to select from. Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. offers several options, from epoxies to polyurethanes, to acrylics. Let's look at these options and hopefully determine which is best suited for your needs.
Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)
Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)
Board member: Friends of the Suncook River - 501(c)(3) non profit ----- Founder: Friday Night Paddlers .
"Professionals helping Professionals since 1994"
PROGRESSIVE EPOXY POLYMERS, INC.
WHO ARE WE?
Watch our short 2-minute
Progressive Epoxy Polymers video
WHO ARE WE? Watch our short 2-minute Progressive Epoxy Polymers video
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MEMBER: Internet Epoxy Confederation (IEC - CLICK HERE TO VISIT) -- "Where Professionalism Still Matters"
We've been selling epoxy - marine epoxy (boat building - wood / fiberglass repair) industrial coatings - garage paint -
underwater epoxies - thick putties - tabletop resins and supplies since the early 1990's
best option for outdoors
Minwax (tm) oil stain - left to dry for 2 weeks - 2 coats ESP 155 epoxy sealer and primer - 4 coats of India Spar Varnish (note ESP 155 and Varnish not for sale in California)
WARNING: Don't buy epoxy from any source that doesn't have batch numbers or Date of Manufacture stamped on to their products labels.. Like all primary source manufacturers and vendors, we track each each unit with a batch number or manufacturing date hand added to each container label. It is a labor intensive, hands-on process that marketing based companies and firms that just want to push product and take your money don't do. Most (maybe all) of out competitors don't track or provide this information. They don't know it, or they don't want to let you know how old their product is. Only buy your epoxy chemicals from vendors that label their epoxies with actual batch numbers or Date of Manufacture. Call before ordering and ask if that information will be on all containers shipped out.
Six Different Clear Epoxies -- Comparisons
(As a professional coatings company we offer a range of clear epoxies with unique properties and applications. This is a very different approach than marketing companies that only offer one product with one application per web site and are far removed from the manufacture and testing of their resold resin)
ESP 155 - solvent based, thin, sealing epoxy often used on wood, concrete and fiberglass. The Part B ranges from clear to dark red. Not for sale in California. Yellows quickly. Commonly used as a sealer and primer under marine spar varnished (i.e. India Spar Varnish - not for sale in California) surfaces, such as bar tops, outdoor furniture and bright-work on boats/yachts. Epoxy and Spar Varnish is a win-win combination. The varnish provides UV protection and a high gloss easily maintained surface and the epoxy provides a stable base for the varnish. For a thicker epoxy base, use Low V epoxy or Basic No Blush epoxy (listed below) under the varnish. Packaged in 2 quart kits (1 to1 mix ratio).
LOW V - A solvent free, low viscosity epoxy often used as sealer or a easily rollable/brushable base on wood bars, cement floors etc. Also used to 're-bond' delaminated damp boat decks with their fiberglass 'skin'. Popular for wood rot repair too as it is thin (to soak in) odorless, and will bond to wet or damp surfaces. It is slightly amber and will yellow quicker than most epoxies. It was originally designed for concrete crack injection. Can be used under a varnish topcoat, giving a thicker epoxy base than the solvent based ESP 155. Can be allowed to flow over the edges on table and bar tops (but it is thin). Comes in 48 oz and 1.5 gal units. (2 to 2 mix ratio).
BIO CLEAR 810 - A solvent free clear epoxy, non brittle epoxy used exclusively for poured on table and bar tops. Very low levels of epoxy yellowing and contains bubble breakers. It requires being poured on at 1/4 inch layers which requires a edge or dam all the way around the surface to prevent it from simply draining onto the floor. If applied too thin it will fisheye due to the surface tension reducing bubble breaker additives. It is a favorite of professional poured on epoxy experts. It has a very slight amber tint. Comes in 48 oz 1.5 gallon and 3 gallon kits (2 to 1 mix ratio).
THIS IS THE ONLY TABLE TOP EPOXY THAT USES A CYCLO-ALIPHATIC FORMULATION AND CONTAINS NO NONYL PHENOL (THAT IS WHY IT IS THE BEST AND THE FAVORITES FOR PROFESSIONALS_
BASIC NO BLUSH - one of our most popular epoxies and one of the most clear epoxies available. It has normal or slightly slow epoxy yellowing. It is commonly used for boat building or boat repair as well as resealing or creating pebble deck surfaces (common around pools and patios in Florida and other warm states. Also used to fill knot holes and cracks in wooden slabs used for bars and tables (sometimes tinted black when filling cracks and knot holes). Forms a hard, fairly brittle surface that handles outdoor weather very well (excluding normal UV yellowing and UV breakdown). Also used on bar and table top surfaces under varnish. Being semi thick it will not lay completely level in temperatures under about 75 degrees. It does contain bubble breakers (which is why the Part A appears slightly cloudy in its container. For table and bar tops use the standard temperature curing agent. For other applications use the low temperature (down to about freezing) winter curing agent. For hot weather (upper 80s and 90s) use the slower summer curing agent. The special summer and winter curing agents are only available for this one epoxy. Comes in 3 quart and 1.5 gallon kits (2 to 1 mix ratio).
EPOXY CLEAR TOP RESIN - Our thickest epoxy (just slightly thicker than the Basic No Blush). Not quite as brittle as the basic no blush. Low, slow yellowing although the product does have a very light greenish tint when applied over snowy white surfaces. Used for pour on bar tops and table tops and can be allowed to drip over the sides. Part A is sort of amber colored and very thick (needs about 75 degrees to work with) while the Part B is clear and watery. The differences in the viscosities of the Part A and Part B make it more difficult to mix but also makes it much more easy to tell when the two parts are well and evenly mixed. Comes in 1 gallon kits (3 to 1 mix ratio).
CLEAR EPOXIES AND UV PROTECTION
be added to cross-linking thermo-set
resin systems like epoxies (they can
be added to 2 part polyurethanes).
Anyone that tells you they have a UV
resistant epoxy or a non yellowing
epoxy is either ignorant or lying to
you. You decide if you want to
do business with dishonest
I'll wager you won't find a Better Business Bureau (BBB) membership logo on their web site (but you will find it proudly displayed here on this site). Nor will you see that person's name or professional coatings/resins credentials and educational background. Pick your online vendors carefully. Avoid overly slick and fluffy sites.
damage and UV yellowing
---------------- Josie Lewis (6/2010) wrote:
Hi Paul: I recently purchased some clear epoxy and Acrylic Poly UV Plus from your company. I have access to a UV chamber which simulates high altitude direct UV exposure. I thought you might be interested in my findings. I used a Masonite panel painted white and then coated with the epoxy. On half of the epoxy coated panel, I brushed on one coat of UV Poly and put it in the chamber for 644 hours at 50 C (the heat accelerates the exposure). Attached is a picture of the results. The masonite cracked a bit and separated due to a bit of wetness in the wood (unrelated to the resin). The epoxy ambered dramatically within about 50 hours. After 644 hours, the UV Poly showed a slight bit of ambering from the original control but it is marginal at worst. The technician who ran the test said if it isn't yellow at 644 hours it is basically indestructible. I also tested several other 2-part resin products with the UV Poly and had the same result. You have a great product. I now feel secure knowing that my resin art, protected with the Poly UV Plus, will be archival and protected for long years. I will be ordering more soon!
Best, Josie (6/2010) Order Acrylic Poly UV plus - cannot be sold in Calif. - and all our other products at our King Cart Storefront. Acrylic poly UV Plus is in the non-epoxy section.
CAUSES, PREVENTION AND CURE OF "FISHEYE" IN YOU CLEAR EPOXY
Fisheyes (see picture) happen when working with clear epoxies. They don’t always happen, but they are not that rare although epoxy vendors tend to downplay the risk of fisheyes. Fisheye will form within about 10-20 minutes after the epoxy has been applied to surface.
Fisheyes are all about surface tension and often surface contamination of oils, waxes, silicones etc. Fisheyes are much less common in pigmented epoxies and epoxies with fillers and binders which ‘hold the epoxy together’ and preventing fisheyes. Of course, adding fillers, pigments or binders results in an epoxy that is no longer clear.
Fisheyes can result when clear epoxies are applied too thin (often to slightly contaminated surfaces, but not necessarily) with surface stresses exceed the ability of the epoxy to ‘hold together." They are much more common on smooth glassy surfaces and rare on rough surfaces.
FISHEYES WILL NOT FORM WHEN USING FIBERGLASS CLOTH WITH YOUR CLEAR (MARINE TYPE) EPOXY.
FISHEYES ARE RATHER COMMON WHEN EPOXY IS APPLIED OVER NEWLY STAINED SURFACES. ALWAYS ALLOW 'STAINS' TO DRY FOR 1 -2 WEEKS BEFORE TOP COATING WITH ANY SORT OF COATING.
Thicker layers of clear epoxy are the answer to preventing most fisheyes. The Bio Clear 810 epoxy is so thin that it is recommended not to be applied in thicknesses of less then 1/4 inch thick (which requires and edge or dam around all edges). It is commonly used in professional bar top and table top applications.
When working with other ‘pour on’ epoxies, fisheyes tend to happen (if they are going to happen) when the epoxy is spread out or brushed out instead of just poured on and allowed to flow out on its own - resulting in a thicker layer).
Keep an eye on your "pour on" or brushed on clear epoxy for the first 30 minutes or so after application. If you see fisheyes forming you can generally ‘fx’ them by pouring more epoxy over the forming fisheye.
If your epoxy is already 'hard' when you notice the fisheyes, here are your options. If the fisheyes are caused by surface contamination then sanding down and/or adding more epoxy may not help - the still present contamination will once again cause more fisheyes in the new second coat of epoxy. A possible fix is to 'seal' the contaminated epoxy with a clear poly sealer and paint which MIGHT separate the contaminates from the the new epoxy to be applied over the poly sealer.
If the fisheyes are caused by minor surface contamination or just too thin of a layer of epoxy you can: 1) pour on more epoxy over the fisheyes and entire surface (but you will still see a slight dimple or depression over the old fisheye sites), 2) sand away the fisheyes and the entire surface and re-apply more epoxy.
A majority of fisheyes are caused by applying clear epoxies too thin on smooth surfaces. In one sense it is best to apply the epoxy as thick as possible, however, if it does fisheye the you will have a real mess to sand away or re-do. Best advice might be to apply a thin coat of epoxy in a small test spot. If it does fisheye, you can probably remove the still liquid epoxy with a solvent soaked rag. If the epoxy is already hard, the thin coat of epoxy in a small test area will not be that big of a deal to sand off. If it doesn't fisheye you can proceed with more epoxy at that thickness or thicker without worry.
Do a test. Brush on a thin coat of your clear epoxy on a 4 inch by 4 inch area. Watch it for about 20 minutes to see if it fisheyes. Whether it does or not, scrap off or remove with a solvent soaked rag. Now you know what to expect.
If you are into your Big Project and see fisheyes forming, adding more epoxy over them is your best fix. So... keep an eye on your clear epoxy application for about 20 - 30 minutes after you apply the epoxy and be on the lookout for developing fisheyes.
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Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.